Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[SayCici]

Has anyone successfully used one of the vintage "EZ FABuckle" self-fabric buckles? The gummy paper is too old to use so I tried following their other set of directions that doesn't use it, but I can't understand what they're telling me to do or how to put it all together. I thought someone had posted about this before but I didn't get any results after searching.

 

[Snookie]

No, not sateen.
I found a satin with cotton in it at a speciality fabric store a while ago, but I didnt ask how much cotton was used in the fabric. They did say it was a 'special fabric'. But thanks for the info Snookie, that helps me a lot.

I guess I should get my hiney back over there and ask questions

LD

People certainly might call a staple-fiber fabric with a satin weave "satin"(especially a merchant who wants to use a fancier name to sell their goods), but that's incorrect. If it's made of a staple fiber with a satin weave, it's sateen.

But I only mentioned it to give you another search term to try if you're not having good luck with "cotton satin".

What are you going to use the fabric for?

 

[Lady Day]

Not sure if this is of any help at all....and I will look up the breakdown of % of each when I get home, but the fabric for my PJ's, which looks very satin-like...is a cotton silk combo.

That would be awesome, thanks.

People certainly might call a staple-fiber fabric with a satin weave "satin"(especially a merchant who wants to use a fancier name to sell their goods), but that's incorrect. If it's made of a staple fiber with a satin weave, it's sateen.

This helps a lot as I try to learn fabric terms and content

Im looking to make a dress. Im no opposed to sateen, but I want something with the sheen of satin, with breathability, as I dont do too well with silk.

LD

 

[kamikat]

Has anyone tried making a girdle or other foundation garment? I've made corsets in the past, so I know my way around a well-fitted garment. I have a custom-drafted bra pattern and I'd like to make a longline bra or body briefer. Has anyone done this?

 

[Lady Day]

Fantastic question, Kami. Ive been wanting to do the same thing too but cant find much info. I hope someone replies

LD

 

[Lauren]

Ditto that. I want to make a 30s one. I'm guessing those are more like traditional corsetmaking, but I'd be interested to hear.

 

[JupitersDarling]

I'd love to know as well. I have an old, beat up 30s era girdle made of what appears to be a combo of coutil/cotton and elastic panels (now unelasticised by age) , with boning. I've been keeping it in hopes of using it as a model for making one in my size someday.

 

[kamikat]

Fantastic question, Kami. Ive been wanting to do the same thing too but cant find much info. I hope someone replies

LD

KwikSew has a merry widow and a bustier, so I was thinking about using one of those as a start. They are both sized S-XL, so I'll have to use my bra pattern for the cup area. But I'm hesitant to spend the money on those patterns if they aren't a good place to start.
KS 2538

KS 3166

 

[Lady Day]

I think we were thinking on the same lines cause I got this pattern to do sort of a make shift deal.

I do have a vintage girdle, but its too large (and too small in the bust). Maybe Ill try and copy it but Im not sure how to use stretch fabric .

LD

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

Lady Day, Thai Silks sells a 52-48 silk/cotton blend satin, though only in black and white:

http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_25&products_id=1113
http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_25&products_id=23

Also, they have a 60-40 cotton/silk sateen, and that comes in different colors:

http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_25&products_id=1027

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

That looks very similar to the modern Sears girdles!

 

[kamikat]

I do have a vintage girdle, but its too large (and too small in the bust). Maybe Ill try and copy it but Im not sure how to use stretch fabric .

LD

Don't worry, with your skills you should be able to do it. Do you have a vintage machine or a more modern one (say 1975 or newer)? You don't need a serger to do it. When I've made bathing suits and bras, the only stitches I've used were a zigzag and a 3-step zigzag. You don't even need the 3step zigzag if you don't care about it looking RTW.
I've been looking at girdle patterns like that on eBay recently, but haven't taken the plunge yet.

 

[Cricket]

Sorry this response is so late, but thanks ladies for all the tips about a beginner sewing kit. I am calling a lady in town today who offers sewing classes on Monday night which I am real excited about.
In fact, I am going to print everyone's suggestions out and head to the store to do some buying.

I am really excited about learning how to sew. I think that it is an art that needs to come back. I know that I will probably walk away from my machine in disgust sometimes but I will learn to get it over it. lol

Also, I am trying to keep my new sewing area clean of clutter but it is kind of hard with my husband and I being reporters. Within a day, my hubby has loaded my sewing table with archived newspapers.

Looks like I might have to move to the "man room". I am sure he would love that.

Thanks again ladies.

 

[Miss 1929]

Re the girdles...

Seems like there is a desire for vintage girdle patterns!

My sister has pattern drafting software...and a successful pattern company for a niche market in Renaissance costumes (margospatterns.com) .I have an old (30s) singlet pattern I have always wanted to copy (it's like a bra and open bottom girdle with garters all of a lightweight fabric, no boning or fasteners, just stretchy).

Would others be interested? Should we start a pattern line of vintage undies?

 

[kamikat]

My sister has pattern drafting software...and a successful pattern company for a niche market in Renaissance costumes (margospatterns.com)

Wow, small world! I was one of her beta testers.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Has anyone successfully used one of the vintage "EZ FABuckle" self-fabric buckles? The gummy paper is too old to use so I tried following their other set of directions that doesn't use it, but I can't understand what they're telling me to do or how to put it all together. I thought someone had posted about this before but I didn't get any results after searching.

I use these all the time -- the sticky paper is never any good, so I get spray fabric adhesive from the craft department, and spray the buckle part with that.

I use the old sticky paper as a pattern for cutting the piece of fabric that will cover the buckle -- and then carefully apply the fabric to the metal part and fold it around. Then press the back of the buckle into the front part -- it will fit tightly, and you might need to tap it a bit with your fist to get it all the way in, but that pressure helps to hold the fabric tightly in place.

 

[SayCici]

I use these all the time -- the sticky paper is never any good, so I get spray fabric adhesive from the craft department, and spray the buckle part with that.

I use the old sticky paper as a pattern for cutting the piece of fabric that will cover the buckle -- and then carefully apply the fabric to the metal part and fold it around. Then press the back of the buckle into the front part -- it will fit tightly, and you might need to tap it a bit with your fist to get it all the way in, but that pressure helps to hold the fabric tightly in place.

Hey, thank you! That helps a lot. I tried to follow their instructions for sheer fabrics which didn't use the sticky paper, but I just didn't understand it. I cut out two shapes: one that was just a trace of the pattern like you say, without any holes in it, and one that was a trace of the buckle (with the little openings cut out). Do I need two of the latter?

 

[Tourbillion]

Has anyone tried making a girdle or other foundation garment? I've made corsets in the past, so I know my way around a well-fitted garment. I have a custom-drafted bra pattern and I'd like to make a longline bra or body briefer. Has anyone done this?

My mother has sewn girdles and bras, she took a lingerie class from a quicksew dealer in the 80's. They aren't that hard to sew, you just need a zigzag sewing machine, I think the main stitch is 3 stitch zigzag. The hard part is finding the patterns, materials and girdle findings to sew them.

I've sewn corsets and an 80's bustier, but these didn't have bra cups. I've seen reproduction patterns for 20's and 30's corset girdles on ebay but I haven't tried them yet, because my vintage 30's one is in really good shape and fits me perfectly (plus it is PINK the perfect color).

However, I was thinking it would be nice to have a spare, or something different. There is a girdle and corset supply in Los Angeles, but I haven't been there in years.

 

[MarieAnne]

I'm making another sloper for myself, this time with less ease. I wanted to know if it was possible to make a sloper with zero ease and then use pattern grading to adjust the fit. Has anyone tried this?

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Grading with a sloper

Hi Marie Anne,

I have done what you're describing. The Wild Ginger sloper I mentioned previously has almost 0 ease. I use the sloper by laying the pattern on top of the sloper. I then make horizontal slash in the pattern and slide it down if it is shorter than the sloper or move it up if it is longer. Then I would slash and spread vertically to match up bust point and body circumference. I'm sorry this sounds confusing. It's not, I swear! Kenneth King has a good chapter on how to do this in his making a moulage cd book.