Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[SayCici]

Hey Lauren, thank you and thank you! It is actually a feedsack inspired Moda print I saw on equilter first and then found cheaper somewhere else!

I figured out what I did wrong - I didn't baste the ruffle piece 1/2" from the end like it says to, I probably had 5 inches hanging off, so once I did that part correctly it came together! It basically went how you described, since I had already gathered it some.

Which reminds me, I wanted to ask your opinion on something! I want to get this pattern, but make it in not such a nautical theme, do you think either of these two fabrics would be accurate for a fabric that would have been used for trousers and make a good basic?

 

[Lauren]

Sure thing!
Hey! I made those Yup, either of those would work. Something with a nice drape works well. You might even want to get something with a bit of rayon in it if you like. Of course, I have had good and bad luck with buying fabric online... sometimes it's hard to figure what it will drape like, but from the pics and descriptions I think those look good

 

[SayCici]

Thanks for the suggestion! Unfortunately all I have is a JoAnn's nearby and they don't have that great of a selection right now.

Did you make the blouse too? It's so cute!

 

[Lauren]

I did! But it was so long ago that I don't remember much construction... I used a black rayon crepe and it was a nightmare getting to to lay right, and then my iron was too hot and the seams all became visible on the outside! It was one of those projects I finished, wore once, then donated to the thrift store in frustration. haha. I'd like to try it again in a different fabric, though.

 

[MarieAnne]

Wing Bust Halter Top update

So here is the wing bust halter top I constructed SANS PATTERN. I have finally attached that silly wing and bra to the bodice. And something funny happened....the wing and bra are wider than they should be. I checked my pattern over and over again, and then checked the final pieces with seam allowances and everything adds up perfect. So when and how did it get bigger. You can see here...

The bra, leopard print, was supposed to line up with the side, and the side seam would run through both. And then the wing, was supposed to be 1/2" from the raw edge because I didn't want it attached at the side, (it's already faced and everything.) Now my wing is lining up with the side bodice raw edge and the bra is hanging out. What happened? Oh well, otherwise it's coming along well. Is there something about sewing curves and things changing sizes, maybe?

 

[SweetieStarr]

So here is the wing bust halter top I constructed SANS PATTERN. I have finally attached that silly wing and bra to the bodice. And something funny happened....the wing and bra are wider than they should be. I checked my pattern over and over again, and then checked the final pieces with seam allowances and everything adds up perfect. So when and how did it get bigger. You can see here...

The bra, leopard print, was supposed to line up with the side, and the side seam would run through both. And then the wing, was supposed to be 1/2" from the raw edge because I didn't want it attached at the side, (it's already faced and everything.) Now my wing is lining up with the side bodice raw edge and the bra is hanging out. What happened? Oh well, otherwise it's coming along well. Is there something about sewing curves and things changing sizes, maybe?

I understand you don't have it exactly right yet, but I love it! Could you maybe do a tutorial?

 

[Lauren]

MarieAnne, what a bummer! I hate when things like that happen! It looks super cute, though.
A lot of time one fabric will have more "wiggle" than the other- I found that certain fabrics tend to "grow" the more you handle them, or even while cutting, and when you do curves most any fabrics do! It could be just that. That's the only thing I can really think of! I'd try to drape it on myself or my dress form and just make do, if it's possible! Can you cut the larger one to fit?

 

[MarieAnne]

Yeah, it's not really a big deal. I will cut, the overhang of the bra and then sew through my wing and bra in the side seam. I'm sure it will work out. I'm just upset that after so much careful planning and three pattern drafts (flat drafting with a sloper), something didn't add up.
Next time I draft a pattern with a curve like this, I think I will use the seam line as a point of reference in all stages of pattern drafting. Rather than simply cutting and taping my sloper, and adding seam allowances to those pieces...

 

[MarieAnne]

Well I finished putting it together and it was a bit too big. I realized the sloper I used is semi fitted and would be better suited to making blouses. Oh well! Now I am trying to decide how much ease I should include in my next sloper to make it very fitted. I'm thinking maybe none.....I used Leena's to draft my sloper. The ease was Bust 8cm, Back width 1.6cm, waist 6cm, adbomen 4cm, hip 4cm. Now there are also sloper making directions on VintageSewingInfo but these directions don't include any ease. Plus the measurements are kinda tricky and wierd.
Who else makes slopers and what method do you use? What kind of ease do you add?
I'll check out my local library again, they have a great sewing section.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

slopers

I cheated, I have the Wild Ginger pattern making program and I used their sloper. Their sloper has just enough ease as to be able to breathe. I'm planning on making Kenneth King's moulage when I get the time/motivation.

 

[MarieAnne]

Sickofitcindy - That sounds really cool! How long have you been using that program? Do you think it's worth the money?

 

[Lauren]

I admit I don't use them that often as I prefer draping, but I remember making them from the form in fashion school. There are specific patterns I've used that are a great fit, or I know what to tweak on them to make them fit well, so it's easy to modify the pattern. Maybe you have a strapless one you could modify to by a base for your design? Strapless things are always so hard- the fit's just not like most clothing!

 

[Snookie]

1/2" is fine; I'm not sure why the standard changed to 5/8", but it's not necessarily better. Some would argue that it is, in fact, worse to have all that excess seam allowance to trim and press flat. Some things, like collars, are way easier to sew with 3/8" seam allowances.

I like the way some of my vintage patterns are set up: 1/2" allowances everywhere but the side seams, which are 3/4" to allow plenty of room for fitting.

5/8" is the modern standard only for home sewing patterns. Industry standard seam allowance is still 1/2", or even 1/4" in certain areas (neckline, collar). 5/8" all over gives the home sewer a little more leeway with fitting, etc. I'd guess it changed sometime in the 60's.

 

[Snookie]

Which reminds me, I wanted to ask your opinion on something! I want to get this pattern, but make it in not such a nautical theme, do you think either of these two fabrics would be accurate for a fabric that would have been used for trousers and make a good basic?

Jumping in! I just got some swatches from Denver Fabrics, and I'd recommend these two for the pants pattern you're looking at. I'm with Lauren, I think you should make sure your fabric has good drape. Impossible to tell online, but a decent wool or rayon content helps. 100% cotton is always too stiff for my taste, unless we're talking gauze.

Black Crepe Feels MUCH more like wool than the Poly-Rayon blend it is, plus it's wash and wear. Wish they had more colors!!
Dark Army Green Gab Slightly thinner, but not sheer. But I like the Black Crepe more.

Sorry no brown, but I bet you can find some if you keep looking.

 

[SayCici]

Jumping in! I just got some swatches from Denver Fabrics, and I'd recommend these two for the pants pattern you're looking at. I'm with Lauren, I think you should make sure your fabric has good drape. Impossible to tell online, but a decent wool or rayon content helps. 100% cotton is always too stiff for my taste, unless we're talking gauze.

Black Crepe Feels MUCH more like wool than the Poly-Rayon blend it is, plus it's wash and wear. Wish they had more colors!!
Dark Army Green Gab Slightly thinner, but not sheer. But I like the Black Crepe more.

Sorry no brown, but I bet you can find some if you keep looking.

Thanks! Unfortunately I haven't been able to find anything I like except for my two original choices. I don't buy wool and I try to avoid synthetic fabrics as well. I've tried searching a couple different sites but I always have to sift through pages and pages of results. This looks alright but linen just doesn't say fall/winter to me, and it has lycra.

I really want something with a bit of weight to it so that they'd be good for fall and winter.

And thanks for the seam information! When you guys say the 5/8" allows for 'fitting', do you mean altering the pattern, like taking it in or adding darts or something?

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Wild Ginger

Marie Anne,
I do like the program though I haven't used it as much as I should have. Then again, I have been working with vintage patterns lately. The main program is kind of fun because you can mix and match details. I need to buckle down and work with it more to learn the editing aspect which will allow me to expand the pattern making experience. I don't even mind taping the patterns together. It's much easier for me than kneeling on the floor in what little space there is. The sloper has been helpful though. I've been using it in conjunction with my vintage patterns and it's helped a lot with getting a better fit.

 

[Snookie]

Thanks! Unfortunately I haven't been able to find anything I like except for my two original choices. I don't buy wool and I try to avoid synthetic fabrics as well. I've tried searching a couple different sites but I always have to sift through pages and pages of results. This looks alright but linen just doesn't say fall/winter to me, and it has lycra.

I really want something with a bit of weight to it so that they'd be good for fall and winter.

And thanks for the seam information! When you guys say the 5/8" allows for 'fitting', do you mean altering the pattern, like taking it in or adding darts or something?

I know a lot of people have views about synthetic fabrics, but I figure there's so few nice fabrics that I'll take what I can get, even if the blend happens to include some poly. And rayon is perfectly period for the early 20th cent., more popular then than today even. The reason I was recommending staying away from the cotton is that whenever I see clothes made from the stiffer fabrics they tend to look "costume-y". But I can tell you have your heart set on brown, so good luck!

Regarding the seam allowance: if the pattern happens to be too small, but you have little extra in the seams, you can let it out to give yourself a little more room. You can always take it in, though, no matter how little SA you have. Darts are trickier, and best adjusted on the pattern/mockup before cutting into your fabric. I think 5/8" became standard so that home sewers could sew everything the same and cause themselves fewer headaches when they forgot to change to 3/4" or 1/4" or whatever. But do whatever your pattern says - if it says 1/2" and you do 5/8", you very well might end up with a garment that's inches too small for you.

 

[SayCici]

Thank you! I hope it doesn't seem like I'm ignoring your advice when you are both far more experienced than I am, I'll definitely just be blaming myself if they come out a little stiff and wonky looking. I definitely would rather sew with rayon than another synthetic. I'm going to JoAnns this weekend to sign up for a class so I will try to look at some fabrics there and, even if they're not the color I want, see if there's anything similar to what's online so I can feel them and see how they drape.

And thanks again! I was wondering about it exactly for the reason you said - I usually buy patterns with 32" busts because 34" ones come with a waist 4" too big (if it is a dress or includes a skirt pattern), but if I can just increase the seam allowance a bit to get it a little smaller without throwing anything else off, that'd be good to know!

 

[MarieAnne]

SickofitCindy - That is very interesting...I may have to put that one on my wishlist for Santa.

 

[Cricket]

I recently picked up my sewing machine from the repair man. It a machine my mother in law left in the closet after she gave up on sewing. Apparently, it locked up over the years from lack of use. Some oil and a few days, it's back working.
I am also going to try to sign up for some sewing classes at a local fabric store since I am clueless when it comes to my new hobby.

My question to you ladies is this:
Could you provide some kind of list with equipment and supplies I will need in my sewing room? Of course, I have the machine and I will purchase fabric and patterns soon, but what else will I need to begin? I recently bought some vintage sewing scissors at an estate sale, but that is literally all I have.

What else? Thanks ladies.