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Here is the one I should have in hand Monday. It’s been posted in another thread but belongs here.
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Somewhere in this thread is an odd Oakbrook labeled jacket with the through belt. That was our of character for the times This does look like a similar jacket with the late 40s label.
I don't know what is going on here. I doubt anyone would try to fake a jacket by sewing in an "older" label since no one but us would notice.
The lighter leather is also very reminiscent of the Vertical Zip jacket I just bought. Made by Appalachian.
My Guess: This is an early Appalachian made jacket, sleeves on top, leather zipper pulls, lighter leather. It is the same as the Oakbrook because they made both jackets, but at different times. Perhaps the Oakbrook was a left over jacket re-labeled.
Given the variety we know in the early wool lined jackets; some labeled "made in California" I believe Hercules was looking for a supplier and suppliers were designing jackets. They were looking to save money and cut cost, leading to a variety of features. Sears needed production numbers and at their cost.
I believe this Made in California jacket were made by Californian Sportswear Company.
The early Made in jackets with the through belt in Steerhide were also made by CSC. I'm not sure how long the relationship lasted with CSC. I do not think it lasted that long.
These jackets have the quality of leather and workmanship of a California Sportswear jacket. Higher quality than the Appalachian jackets. CSC was also well known for their use of steerhide. They made jackets for sears in the 30s. They had the capacity to supply.
What do you all think?
Yes, it is getting pretty confusing with the addition of this 40s label jacket.
Almost every config may be found I think.
There is this through-belt on Grailed, with wool lining and this label, without palm trees :
Did the red and/or green (and gray?) wool-lined jackets have made in Cali labels? I can see that the one in the picture you uploaded into your post that I quoted does, but have the others? I don’t recall. I probably should try to organize my pictures.
Close up of D pocket. Also, the interior of the collar and bottom hem is lined with corduroy. Not sure I have seen that on the collar on other MC Hercs.
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Similar lining colors. I like the label "THE COAT OF THE STARS".
That's one of the nicest vintage 50s moto jacket I've seen here. So they did have premium features like the reinforced bits here and there back then. Nice.Here is the 54 HH Herc. Some obvious differences between this and the steer Herc I have (shape of D, patch pocket, stitching pattern, type of seams, corduroy lined hem, patch of leather at armpit, pockets leather lined, reinforced panel w/ stud work, lapels all snap to jacket, belt loops, etc.). I will post side by side when I have some more time.
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Dang, those seams are pretty!
That's one of the nicest vintage 50s moto jacket I've seen here. So they did have premium features like the reinforced bits here and there back then. Nice.
That collar can rub the wrong way with your helmut if you a full face helmut guy though. Is the fur removable?
Thats great its removable! I had to learn that the hard way. It would get uncomfortably hot with a full face helmet and a fur collar. The fur looks awesome I would want it on all my jackets, but best if it is removable.Aren’t they. My Oakbrook is the same.
It is quite good looking. I am pretty stoked.
I am a full-face bubba, and will keep note of that. And yes, the fur is removable.
Lots of nice details, a great find.
Just a quick question about the thru belts. Have you ever removed it and tried to put it back thru?
How difficult is it to re-thread?