Sears Motorcylce Jacket History 1949-1963

[JMax]

I just posted the link to buy this jacket in the finds & deals thread.

 

[Wildhorses]

I just posted the link to buy this jacket in the finds & deals thread.

View attachment 347276

This early 40s has been for sale for a while, really nice but a small size. Discounted now...
Another one, from the 50s, I will post the following one in the other thread too :

 

[Wildhorses]

An other early 40s from a crazy seller in Japan.

 

[Wildhorses]

An other steerhide Made in California, similar to the one posted on page 10.
I post these pics before the jacket is sold from the site.

 

[Wildhorses]

Some more pics of the steerhide, it's in really good condition.

 

[JMax]

This Oakbrook and the other one on page 6 are absolutely similar, the only difference I notice is the red lining instead of black. They may be great repros of some Made in California 1950s steerhide Hercules, with some differences such as the perfecty squared small pocket, the slightly different studded panel at back, and the stitching of the lining (big squares instead of small ones), and the label of course. Oakbrook did some great things at this time.

Nice catch on the differences, especially the D pocket shape. Also, the early Herc Steer in this style did not have the snaps on the upper lapels. The Oakbrook pictured has snaps on all four lapels.

 

[Wildhorses]

Nice catch on the differences, especially the D pocket shape. Also, the early Herc Steer in this style did not have the snaps on the upper lapels. The Oakbrook pictured has snaps on all four lapels.

The 2 top snaps are sometimes visible, and sometimes they are not, but they are still under the collar,
closer to the middle of the collar band. I suppose they are just there for the fur collar,
rather than to attach the collar band to the body and preventing from flapping in the wind.

 

[JMax]

Yes, the hidden snaps are not for securing the lapels to the jacket. Not the usual route for a MC jacket, but not unheard of.

 

[tmitchell59]

Never seen this label on a red quilt lined MC jacket. This jacket tells a big story. Confirms these early through belts were produced around 1950/51. The newer Hercules label is seen c.1951 along with the red lining.

All of the early wool lined jackets I have seen have this label. Never seen a wool lined with the 50s Hercules label. That will probably be the next oddity to show up!

These jackets are filling in the gaps.

Now we have to figuring out which is which, who made what and when. This is becoming an exciting adventure.

1950s label

Put another log on the Fire!! Ha, Check out that label, red quilt lining, sleeve zipper position, through belt, D pocket. Never seen this combination. This label appears on the Wool lined jackets. Never seen it on a red lined jacket. A nice piece of the Hercules puzzle.

Funky stitching around the D pocket. Looks like a zipper replacement then the crazy outline on the D pocket? Was this sold like this?

 

[Wildhorses]

This jacket has the D pocket design, the back panel and the thinner leather as seen on the Oakbrook version.
It's strange to find the older label on it. And the stitching details, not perfectly done. Who knows if this 70 years old MC wasn't modified...
I'll try to find the archeopteryx : the wool lined with the Made in Cali label.

 

[JMax]

This jacket has the D pocket design, the back panel and the thinner leather as seen on the Oakbrook version.
It's strange to find the older label on it. And the stitching details, not perfectly done. Who knows if this 70 years old MC wasn't modified...
I'll try to find the archeopteryx : the wool lined with the Made in Cali label.

Wool and Cali, yes! That’s the missing one, isn’t it? I like the wool lined w/ the actual HB but without the attached belt. So many configurations it makes my head spin.

 

[Wildhorses]

This way not everyone has the same Hercules, that's nice. But some collectors have the all
I only have one for the moment.
I just found pics of an other version with the giant map pocket at the front, and a pocket hidden in the bi-swing back.
No pics of the label, but it must be a Sears.

 

[JMax]

This way not everyone has the same Hercules, that's nice. But some collectors have the all
I only have one for the moment.
I just found pics of an other version with the giant map pocket at the front, and a pocket hidden in the bi-swing back.
No pics of the label, but it must be a Sears.

LW is now offering their version of this jacket. I should have gone after the Herc in this style that TM recently got off eBay. So nice. And it fit him, so it’ll fit me. I was worried it was too small.

The Windwards seem to fit smaller than both the Penney’s and Sears. I can go a bit smaller on the measurements with Sears. But I hesitated with this one. It’s a cool jacket.

 

[JMax]

My last post got me thinking…while I seriously appreciate what TM does with the jackets when in hand, he is after all not just a collector but someone looking to learn about the history of the jackets/a true scholar if that’s the correct word, there have been three jackets I “regret” not owning that he now has—

The 40s Herc with the green wool lining
The Herc with the huge map pocket &
The California Sportswear 3 pocket/W? jacket with the chrome tanned label.

It’s all good of course. Just thinking here.

 

[Wildhorses]

My last post got me thinking…while I seriously appreciate what TM does with the jackets when in hand, he is after all not just a collector but someone looking to learn about the history of the jackets/a true scholar if that’s the correct word, there have been three jackets I “regret” not owning that he now has—

The 40s Herc with the green wool lining
The Herc with the huge map pocket &
The California Sportswear 3 pocket/W? jacket with the chrome tanned label.

It’s all good of course. Just thinking here.

I thank all members of TFL, I did learn a lot of things here. A great knowledge and a pleasure to read.
I know it's sometimes hard to see great jackets bought by someone else, but that's justice after all.
That could be called experience !
It's great that TM finally got the big map pocket.
About the 40s with green lining, I am sure some will show up later. I must find one too in my size,
and I prefer the red lining.

 

[Wildhorses]

I was waiting for pics of the big map pocket. I was pretty sure Terry had boought it, but I didn't have the info.
I just see he posted photos 2 weeks ago in the WJAYWT thread. It fits nicely, so it may have been too big for me.
I had asked measurements from the ebay seller but never got any answer

 

[jonbuilder]

I just posted the link to buy this jacket in the finds & deals thread.

View attachment 347276

Interesting Herc I was going to post it here myself.
here is the label

 

[tmitchell59]

No pics of the label, but it must be a Sears.

May have the Appalachian label, many do. This jacket reminds me of the vertical zip. Little doubt Appalachian made these jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

This jacket has the D pocket design, the back panel and the thinner leather as seen on the Oakbrook version.
It's strange to find the older label on it. And the stitching details, not perfectly done. Who knows if this 70 years old MC wasn't modified...
I'll try to find the archeopteryx : the wool lined with the Made in Cali label.

Somewhere in this thread is an odd Oakbrook labeled jacket with the through belt. That was our of character for the times This does look like a similar jacket with the late 40s label.

I don't know what is going on here. I doubt anyone would try to fake a jacket by sewing in an "older" label since no one but us would notice.

The lighter leather is also very reminiscent of the Vertical Zip jacket I just bought. Made by Appalachian.

My Guess: This is an early Appalachian made jacket, sleeves on top, leather zipper pulls, lighter leather. It is the same as the Oakbrook because they made both jackets, but at different times. Perhaps the Oakbrook was a left over jacket re-labeled.

Given the variety we know in the early wool lined jackets; some labeled "made in California" I believe Hercules was looking for a supplier and suppliers were designing jackets. They were looking to save money and cut cost, leading to a variety of features. Sears needed production numbers and at their cost.

I believe this Made in California jacket were made by Californian Sportswear Company.

The early Made in jackets with the through belt in Steerhide were also made by CSC. I'm not sure how long the relationship lasted with CSC. I do not think it lasted that long.

These jackets have the quality of leather and workmanship of a California Sportswear jacket. Higher quality than the Appalachian jackets. CSC was also well known for their use of steerhide. They made jackets for sears in the 30s. They had the capacity to supply.

What do you all think?

So many configurations it makes my head spin.

Yes, it is getting pretty confusing with the addition of this 40s label jacket.

 

[Wildhorses]

Somewhere in this thread is an odd Oakbrook labeled jacket with the through belt. That was our of character for the times This does look like a similar jacket with the late 40s label.

I don't know what is going on here. I doubt anyone would try to fake a jacket by sewing in an "older" label since no one but us would notice.

The lighter leather is also very reminiscent of the Vertical Zip jacket I just bought. Made by Appalachian.

My Guess: This is an early Appalachian made jacket, sleeves on top, leather zipper pulls, lighter leather. It is the same as the Oakbrook because they made both jackets, but at different times. Perhaps the Oakbrook was a left over jacket re-labeled.

Given the variety we know in the early wool lined jackets; some labeled "made in California" I believe Hercules was looking for a supplier and suppliers were designing jackets. They were looking to save money and cut cost, leading to a variety of features. Sears needed production numbers and at their cost.

I believe this Made in California jacket were made by Californian Sportswear Company.

The early Made in jackets with the through belt in Steerhide were also made by CSC. I'm not sure how long the relationship lasted with CSC. I do not think it lasted that long.

These jackets have the quality of leather and workmanship of a California Sportswear jacket. Higher quality than the Appalachian jackets. CSC was also well known for their use of steerhide. They made jackets for sears in the 30s. They had the capacity to supply.

What do you all think?



Yes, it is getting pretty confusing with the addition of this 40s label jacket.

Almost every config may be found I think.
There is this through-belt on Grailed, with wool lining and this label, without palm trees :