Schott shinki fit

[Tom71]

I think it looks good, but for the overly long sleeves; if you get them sorted out,the rest is a very fine looking, slightly looser jacket. Yes, its long(ish) in the body, but with some layering/untucked shirts it´s gonna work.

 

[Marc mndt]

This pattern is more modern slim long.

They were looking at a modern audience with this one.

but it's definitely been altered in pattern to suit contemporary fashion.

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

Today's fashion is all about generous fits with trousers that sit at the natural waistline. Jackets do not have to be as long in order to cover the pants waistband.

Low waist trousers might be considered modern as in 'they're not what people wore back in the days' but they are certainly not modern in the sense of today's fashion.

Low rise pants are terribly out of fashion.

Which means Schott's designers cater to yesterday's fashion?

 

[Aloysius]

For the record I tried that jacket on at Schott a while back and it was massively too long on me. I'm 5'7" 170 like the OP, although I think we have different body types. Either way, I felt like the jacket was at least 1.5" too long in the body for the style.

Yeah this is really the thing. I envy your height for vintage shopping–I feel like I'm just past the threshold of finding things, and I say it as someone who's been wearing high waisted trousers for most of my life (I got into classic menswear and made a TFL account in 2007); unfortunately some just aren't long enough for the intended fit on me.

Even with my Field aviator, I wish I had specced at least a 25" back; @Marc mndt advised me to lengthen from my intended 24" and to widen the hem, but I did so minimally (requested 24.5 back and added an inch to hem width) because I was still worrying of the jacket ending up too long.

 

[Aloysius]

I think it looks good, but for the overly long sleeves; if you get them sorted out,the rest is a very fine looking, slightly looser jacket. Yes, its long(ish) in the body, but with some layering/untucked shirts it´s gonna work.

Yeah, I think the same. Sort the sleeve length and good to go.

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

But then I guess people like Daniel Craig and his partner-in-crime the deranged costume designer Jany Tamime have established a trend for majorly undersized tailoring that looks worse than anything else I've ever seen so there's simultaneously a young people oversize trend and a middle aged undersized trend.

 

[MrProper]

Yeah, I think the same. Sort the sleeve length and good to go.



I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

But then I guess people like Daniel Craig and his partner-in-crime the deranged costume designer Jany Tamime have established a trend for majorly undersized tailoring that looks worse than anything else I've ever seen so there's simultaneously a young people oversize trend and a middle aged undersized trend.

I am definitely team undersized.
Unfortunately, I don't like Marc's pictures at all, even though I wore some of them like this myself in the 80s/90s.
Even though I'm from yesterday with a low waist, I prefer it.

 

[jeo]

I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

Because slimmer fits are still in fashion.

Sure, if you peruse StyleForum or go to pitti uomo/fashion show or look at the NY/LA fashionistas and celebrities then yeah, they moved on from slimmer fits a few years ago, but the vast majority of people are still wearing lower rise and slimmer fits. The tell is what stores like the Gap and J Crew are carrying. Just stopped by there. One giant fit, one classic straight and the rest is low rise and slim fit.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah this is really the thing. I envy your height for vintage shopping–I feel like I'm just past the threshold of finding things, and I say it as someone who's been wearing high waisted trousers for most of my life (I got into classic menswear and made a TFL account in 2007); unfortunately some just aren't long enough for the intended fit on me.

Even with my Field aviator, I wish I had specced at least a 25" back; @Marc mndt advised me to lengthen from my intended 24" and to widen the hem, but I did so minimally (requested 24.5 back and added an inch to hem width) because I was still worrying of the jacket ending up too long.

Yeah if there's one good thing about being below average height, it's being the right size for great vintage jackets.

How tall are you? You must be fairly tall if you wear high rise trousers and need a 25" back

 

[MickeyPunch]

A lot of people basically settle with a style and keep wearing it for the rest of their lives (that’s why you see hoodies under a leather jacket around here lol). It’s the young people that pick up new trends, and I don’t know where young people in the US go and buy clothes these days but it’s unlikely to be J Crew or Gap (esp. the former).

E.g. around here Pull&Bear (same owner as Zara, Inditex) is a brand popular with the young kids, most of the jeans are loose. https://www.pullandbear.com/es/hombre/ropa/jeans-n6347

 

[Aloysius]

Because slimmer fits are still in fashion.

Sure, if you peruse StyleForum or go to pitti uomo/fashion show or look at the NY/LA fashionistas and celebrities then yeah, they moved on from slimmer fits a few years ago, but the vast majority of people are still wearing lower rise and slimmer fits. The tell is what stores like the Gap and J Crew are carrying. Just stopped by there. One giant fit, one classic straight and the rest is low rise and slim fit.

I get what you're saying, but I think it supports my point (that's why I added the caveat of there being sort of two trend lines). Like I said a lot of middle-aged people are still very much on the skinny-fit bandwagon (hence all the politicians you see in undersized pants–props to Biden and Trump for bucking that), but younger people have embraced straight fit (or even oversized) and high waists across the board.

I think Gap is still targeting the Gen Xers it was built around. Go into the even more mass market brands and straight/oversize are much more common, like Mickey notes here:

E.g. around here Pull&Bear (same owner as Zara, Inditex) is a brand popular with the young kids, most of the jeans are loose. https://www.pullandbear.com/es/hombre/ropa/jeans-n6347

Yeah if there's one good thing about being below average height, it's being the right size for great vintage jackets.

How tall are you? You must be fairly tall if you wear high rise trousers and need a 25" back

I'm not that tall (just over 6'1") but I have a long torso so the usual formula for jacket/inseam length doesn't quite work for me. And that era when even repro brands like RRL had gone with the too-short suit jacket look was a real bummer for me. (Although as I say this I realize I have an amazing RRL jacket that might fit you perfectly; I'll have to bring it along next time I'm in your area.)

 

[mr.hatlover]

Sssss

 

[mr.hatlover]

Does that look better?

 

[Aloysius]

Does that look better?

It looks good but I genuinely like the drapey fit of the other jacket better, once the sleeve length is fixed. Hell your pics have about convinced me to give it a try myself, but I have another clothes purchase on the horizon lol.

 

[jeo]

but younger people have embraced straight fit (or even oversized) and high waists across the board.

This is not what I’m seeing at all. I’d say one out of every ten people I see on the street are wearing the new higher rise and wider leg trend and when it comes to young people I’d say maybe half are wearing the trendy 90’s style they thrifted. There’s a reason this 90’s revival hasn’t fully taken hold. It’s as horrendous today as it was back then.


I also see two different trends going on right now. The true 90’s style a lot of the kids are wearing today with acid washes, Jnco jeans and oversized jackets. No high rises here.

The other trend is a sort of a 30’s/40’s revival. These are more high fashion oriented people that are wearing the high rise pleated trousers with penny loafers and the slim belts and watches. This is a very small contingent of people, unless you’re on style forum or follow a lot of fashion IG pages and then you’ll think it’s bigger than what it actually is.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Does that look better?

Yes.

If you are really in love with your Shinki aviator, you can get it shortened. I've done it.

And a more recent job, this trucker is a modern American size Large, and is a bit long for me, so I had it shortened both torso and sleeves,

You can probably have the shortening done by Schott's repair department as they know their jackets best. Shorten an inch in the torso and inch in the sleeve should do the trick and you'll have the same fit as your Buco, with a bit room to layer if needed, but also ok with a single layer like my trucker. Probably about 250 dollars for the whole job.

 

[handymike]

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

Today's fashion is all about generous fits with trousers that sit at the natural waistline. Jackets do not have to be as long in order to cover the pants waistband.

Low waist trousers might be considered modern as in 'they're not what people wore back in the days' but they are certainly not modern in the sense of today's fashion.

Low rise pants are terribly out of fashion.

Which means Schott's designers cater to yesterday's fashion?

View attachment 648675 View attachment 648676 View attachment 648677 View attachment 648678

Thank goodness those skinny/ slim silhouettes are done….
Back to baggy, boys!

 

[mr.hatlover]

Today I saw flathead delraiser, leon custom and a trm j24 which i bought. All shinki horsehide, the schott was leagues ahead of the others in leather thickness suppleness and overall quality.

Will be looking for it in a medium.

 

[Aloysius]

Today I saw flathead delraiser, leon custom and a trm j24 which i bought. All shinki horsehide, the schott was leagues ahead of the others in leather thickness suppleness and overall quality.

Will be looking for it in a medium.

Imo just keep one of the jackets and wear it hard and well. Schott will have the best patterning though the leathers/finishing are subjecting. Seems like you prefer the Schott for that too though.

I think the large with shortened sleeves would be a better bet than the medium but you can try the medium and see.

 

[Rgcards]

Pm'd you

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I get what you're saying, but I think it supports my point (that's why I added the caveat of there being sort of two trend lines). Like I said a lot of middle-aged people are still very much on the skinny-fit bandwagon (hence all the politicians you see in undersized pants–props to Biden and Trump for bucking that), but younger people have embraced straight fit (or even oversized) and high waists across the board.

I think Gap is still targeting the Gen Xers it was built around. Go into the even more mass market brands and straight/oversize are much more common, like Mickey notes here:





I'm not that tall (just over 6'1") but I have a long torso so the usual formula for jacket/inseam length doesn't quite work for me. And that era when even repro brands like RRL had gone with the too-short suit jacket look was a real bummer for me. (Although as I say this I realize I have an amazing RRL jacket that might fit you perfectly; I'll have to bring it along next time I'm in your area.)

Yeah not crazy tall, but still significantly taller than me so I can see why length of many vintage jackets could be an issue for you. And yes the short suit jacket isn't a great look. I know I love short casual jackets, but the short/skinny suit look is something I got over once I stopped playing drums in pop punk bands. And thank you! I'd be happy to try it on!

 

[Edward]

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

Today's fashion is all about generous fits with trousers that sit at the natural waistline. Jackets do not have to be as long in order to cover the pants waistband.

Low waist trousers might be considered modern as in 'they're not what people wore back in the days' but they are certainly not modern in the sense of today's fashion.

Low rise pants are terribly out of fashion.

Which means Schott's designers cater to yesterday's fashion?

View attachment 648675 View attachment 648676 View attachment 648677 View attachment 648678

I suspect much on this may depend on location. I am seeing the occasional wider leg on sale (though always with a disappointingly low waist - even if just 2 or 3 inches too low for me rather than the four to six of a few years ago), but I'm not seeing anything like an older, forties-inspired style translating to the mainstream on the streets of London yet.

There's no doubt jackets got longer on average since the 90s to meet lower waistbands, but I'm not seeing them rise again yet either round here. Hopefully this trend will spread and stay around just long enough to be the next thing that is consistently provided for in 'old man' shops. I've found enough vintage-repro suppliers nowadays that I can get trousers from a few sources again, but I would certainly welcome mainstream options as much cheaper for kicking about in.

Yeah, I think the same. Sort the sleeve length and good to go.



I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

But then I guess people like Daniel Craig and his partner-in-crime the deranged costume designer Jany Tamime have established a trend for majorly undersized tailoring that looks worse than anything else I've ever seen so there's simultaneously a young people oversize trend and a middle aged undersized trend.

Definitely true that there are different markets. I'd have no problem buying in yoof stores if it was an option, but they tend to (quite possibly deliberately to protect brand image) stop a couple of waistband sizes below what I'd need.

A lot of people basically settle with a style and keep wearing it for the rest of their lives (that’s why you see hoodies under a leather jacket around here lol). It’s the young people that pick up new trends, and I don’t know where young people in the US go and buy clothes these days but it’s unlikely to be J Crew or Gap (esp. the former).

E.g. around here Pull&Bear (same owner as Zara, Inditex) is a brand popular with the young kids, most of the jeans are loose. https://www.pullandbear.com/es/hombre/ropa/jeans-n6347

Definitely. I remember noticing this as a kid, among people around us. several ladies who hit their thirties in our church found their style in 1987 and never changed it. Older men in the eighties still dressing as they had in the late forties or early fifties - those who did the latter must have been delighted by the arrival of eighties does 50s! My maternal grandfather was extremely pleased with the return of the boxer short in the middle eighties - up til then he'd doggedly continued with them but they'd been getting harder to find.

Yes.

If you are really in love with your Shinki aviator, you can get it shortened. I've done it.

View attachment 648868

And a more recent job, this trucker is a modern American size Large, and is a bit long for me, so I had it shortened both torso and sleeves,
View attachment 648869

You can probably have the shortening done by Schott's repair department as they know their jackets best. Shorten an inch in the torso and inch in the sleeve should do the trick and you'll have the same fit as your Buco, with a bit room to layer if needed, but also ok with a single layer like my trucker. Probably about 250 dollars for the whole job.

Impressively done - props to your tailor!