Schott shinki fit

[Tom71]

I think it looks good, but for the overly long sleeves; if you get them sorted out,the rest is a very fine looking, slightly looser jacket. Yes, its long(ish) in the body, but with some layering/untucked shirts it´s gonna work.

 

[Marc mndt]

This pattern is more modern slim long.

They were looking at a modern audience with this one.

but it's definitely been altered in pattern to suit contemporary fashion.

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

Today's fashion is all about generous fits with trousers that sit at the natural waistline. Jackets do not have to be as long in order to cover the pants waistband.

Low waist trousers might be considered modern as in 'they're not what people wore back in the days' but they are certainly not modern in the sense of today's fashion.

Low rise pants are terribly out of fashion.

Which means Schott's designers cater to yesterday's fashion?

 

[Aloysius]

For the record I tried that jacket on at Schott a while back and it was massively too long on me. I'm 5'7" 170 like the OP, although I think we have different body types. Either way, I felt like the jacket was at least 1.5" too long in the body for the style.

Yeah this is really the thing. I envy your height for vintage shopping–I feel like I'm just past the threshold of finding things, and I say it as someone who's been wearing high waisted trousers for most of my life (I got into classic menswear and made a TFL account in 2007); unfortunately some just aren't long enough for the intended fit on me.

Even with my Field aviator, I wish I had specced at least a 25" back; @Marc mndt advised me to lengthen from my intended 24" and to widen the hem, but I did so minimally (requested 24.5 back and added an inch to hem width) because I was still worrying of the jacket ending up too long.

 

[Aloysius]

I think it looks good, but for the overly long sleeves; if you get them sorted out,the rest is a very fine looking, slightly looser jacket. Yes, its long(ish) in the body, but with some layering/untucked shirts it´s gonna work.

Yeah, I think the same. Sort the sleeve length and good to go.

Why do we think long (slim) bodied jackets cater to a modern wardrobe?

I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

But then I guess people like Daniel Craig and his partner-in-crime the deranged costume designer Jany Tamime have established a trend for majorly undersized tailoring that looks worse than anything else I've ever seen so there's simultaneously a young people oversize trend and a middle aged undersized trend.

 

[MrProper]

Yeah, I think the same. Sort the sleeve length and good to go.



I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

But then I guess people like Daniel Craig and his partner-in-crime the deranged costume designer Jany Tamime have established a trend for majorly undersized tailoring that looks worse than anything else I've ever seen so there's simultaneously a young people oversize trend and a middle aged undersized trend.

I am definitely team undersized.
Unfortunately, I don't like Marc's pictures at all, even though I wore some of them like this myself in the 80s/90s.
Even though I'm from yesterday with a low waist, I prefer it.

 

[jeo]

I am not sure why TFL is convinced that the fashionable look is 2000s skinny jeans (which I hated then and now); they have been out for years now. If anything the young celebs are wearing absurd levels of 90s oversized.

Because slimmer fits are still in fashion.

Sure, if you peruse StyleForum or go to pitti uomo/fashion show or look at the NY/LA fashionistas and celebrities then yeah, they moved on from slimmer fits a few years ago, but the vast majority of people are still wearing lower rise and slimmer fits. The tell is what stores like the Gap and J Crew are carrying. Just stopped by there. One giant fit, one classic straight and the rest is low rise and slim fit.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah this is really the thing. I envy your height for vintage shopping–I feel like I'm just past the threshold of finding things, and I say it as someone who's been wearing high waisted trousers for most of my life (I got into classic menswear and made a TFL account in 2007); unfortunately some just aren't long enough for the intended fit on me.

Even with my Field aviator, I wish I had specced at least a 25" back; @Marc mndt advised me to lengthen from my intended 24" and to widen the hem, but I did so minimally (requested 24.5 back and added an inch to hem width) because I was still worrying of the jacket ending up too long.

Yeah if there's one good thing about being below average height, it's being the right size for great vintage jackets.

How tall are you? You must be fairly tall if you wear high rise trousers and need a 25" back

 

[MickeyPunch]

A lot of people basically settle with a style and keep wearing it for the rest of their lives (that’s why you see hoodies under a leather jacket around here lol). It’s the young people that pick up new trends, and I don’t know where young people in the US go and buy clothes these days but it’s unlikely to be J Crew or Gap (esp. the former).

E.g. around here Pull&Bear (same owner as Zara, Inditex) is a brand popular with the young kids, most of the jeans are loose. https://www.pullandbear.com/es/hombre/ropa/jeans-n6347

 

[Aloysius]

Because slimmer fits are still in fashion.

Sure, if you peruse StyleForum or go to pitti uomo/fashion show or look at the NY/LA fashionistas and celebrities then yeah, they moved on from slimmer fits a few years ago, but the vast majority of people are still wearing lower rise and slimmer fits. The tell is what stores like the Gap and J Crew are carrying. Just stopped by there. One giant fit, one classic straight and the rest is low rise and slim fit.

I get what you're saying, but I think it supports my point (that's why I added the caveat of there being sort of two trend lines). Like I said a lot of middle-aged people are still very much on the skinny-fit bandwagon (hence all the politicians you see in undersized pants–props to Biden and Trump for bucking that), but younger people have embraced straight fit (or even oversized) and high waists across the board.

I think Gap is still targeting the Gen Xers it was built around. Go into the even more mass market brands and straight/oversize are much more common, like Mickey notes here:

E.g. around here Pull&Bear (same owner as Zara, Inditex) is a brand popular with the young kids, most of the jeans are loose. https://www.pullandbear.com/es/hombre/ropa/jeans-n6347

Yeah if there's one good thing about being below average height, it's being the right size for great vintage jackets.

How tall are you? You must be fairly tall if you wear high rise trousers and need a 25" back

I'm not that tall (just over 6'1") but I have a long torso so the usual formula for jacket/inseam length doesn't quite work for me. And that era when even repro brands like RRL had gone with the too-short suit jacket look was a real bummer for me. (Although as I say this I realize I have an amazing RRL jacket that might fit you perfectly; I'll have to bring it along next time I'm in your area.)