Schott shinki fit

[mr.hatlover]

That doesn’t seem overly long at all. What’s the front drop measure? View attachment 648510
If measured this way (closed) how far down do the front panels extend past the hem? I have no skin in the game but I am curious b/c these numbers aren’t adding up to the elongated (looking) fit of the jacket (unless there is a massive drop).

Including the collar is utterly worthless as that includes height and length. Collar goes up, body goes down.

The front is basically even with back except at the zipper where it extends just barely about 1/8-1/4 of an inch.

I think the fact that its draping over my lack of pecs is making the jacket appear longer. I need to hit the gym

 

[mr.hatlover]

I've found the biggest contributor to that seems to be how the coat is shaped. In this case it's probably that the half belt area isn't cinched in a bit.

Yea thats true whereas in the schott model it is. I need to add side adjusters!

 

[ton312]

I've found the biggest contributor to that seems to be how the coat is shaped. In this case it's probably that the half belt area isn't cinched in a bit.

I don’t know how much that would help. I’m reminded of the Thurston bros “stock” Aero 30’s HB with. 25.5” back and 3” front drop. Results in a stretched appearance inspite of the cinched HB:

This Schott gives me the same tunic top feeling, in a less forgiving design. I hated the length of this jacket. Felt like a painters smock and mutilated what should’ve been a proper high and tight half belt. South of the half belt the jacket just bulges and looks ridiculous IMO.

 

[mr.hatlover]

I don’t know how much that would help. I’m reminded of the Thurston bros “stock” Aero 30’s HB with. 25.5” back and 3” front drop. Results in a stretched appearance inspite of the cinched HB:
View attachment 648513
This Schott gives me the same tunic top feeling, in a less forgiving design. I hated the length of this jacket. Felt like a painters smock and mutilated what should’ve been a proper high and tight half belt. South of the half belt the jacket just bulges and looks ridiculous IMO.

For me it is the opposite though it looks quite tapered near the bottom and wide up top. Also there is almost no drop, at most an eight of an inch.

 

[Aloysius]

I don’t know how much that would help. I’m reminded of the Thurston bros “stock” Aero 30’s HB with. 25.5” back and 3” front drop. Results in a stretched appearance inspite of the cinched HB:
View attachment 648513
This Schott gives me the same tunic top feeling, in a less forgiving design. I hated the length of this jacket. Felt like a painters smock and mutilated what should’ve been a proper high and tight half belt. South of the half belt the jacket just bulges and looks ridiculous IMO.

Maybe what I'm thinking is that the zip should end higher up like on a Hercules; maybe using the two-way would have the same effect.

 

[ton312]

For me it is the opposite though it looks quite tapered near the bottom and wide up top. Also there is almost no drop, at most an eight of an inch.

Can I ask your height/weight? To me your jacket doesn’t look nearly as stretched out of proportion as my Aero did. I’m 5’11 and was close to 215 at that time. It’s two different jackets and the Aero had a full 3” drop but I find this fascinating and a good comparison to how similar numbers can yield different fits.

 

[Aloysius]

I’m reminded of the Thurston bros “stock” Aero 30’s HB with. 25.5” back and 3” front drop. Results in a stretched appearance inspite of the cinched HB:

Ah also this part. Thurston lengthening + Aero's narrower 30s block probably makes a difference. Aero already specs assuming the wearer is 5'11, so Thurston's added length probably pushed it over the edge.

Even an inch makes a difference; it's why some tailors will make a double-breasted suit 1" shorter than single breasted on the same customer, because of the size of the overlap. (Others don't, but either 'side' would agree an inch of length makes a big difference on a jacket's look.)

 

[mr.hatlover]

Can I ask your height/weight? To me your jacket doesn’t look nearly as stretched out of proportion as my Aero did. I’m 5’11 and was close to 215 at that time. It’s two different jackets and the Aero had a full 3” drop but I find this fascinating and a good comparison to how similar numbers can yield different fits.

Roughly 5’9 170

 

[ton312]

Roughly 5’9 170

So it could be that the jacket is better suited for taller fellas. Like I said earlier I think with the sleeves made shorter you can wear this without issue. But it’s an awfully expensive piece to alter out of necessity.

 

[mr.hatlover]

So it could be that the jacket is better suited for taller fellas. Like I said earlier I think with the sleeves made shorter you can wear this without issue. But it’s an awfully expensive piece to alter out of necessity.

1800 including tax. But the sleeves being long add a lot of bulk on the jacket making it also seem bigger. Id wanr the half belt to ait tighter too. Is it possible to add adjusters somehow?

With age and creasing it may come to fit me better. I also dont know if my next shiki jacket will have this quality of leather.

For now i have it listed for sale but still thinking about it. The sleeves are an 85 dollar repair by schott.

 

[ton312]

The sleeves are an 85 dollar repair by schott.

Oh man if Schott can shorten the sleeves for $85 cancel the sale, do that and live happily ever after! The two way will keep it from tiger uppercutting your chin when seated. I would do that and be happy with it.

 

[mr.hatlover]

Hahhhhhhaa they knew what they were doing with the zipper

 

[KBlake]

I don’t know how much that would help. I’m reminded of the Thurston bros “stock” Aero 30’s HB with. 25.5” back and 3” front drop. Results in a stretched appearance inspite of the cinched HB:
View attachment 648513
This Schott gives me the same tunic top feeling, in a less forgiving design. I hated the length of this jacket. Felt like a painters smock and mutilated what should’ve been a proper high and tight half belt. South of the half belt the jacket just bulges and looks ridiculous IMO.

Could it be narrow shoulders contributing to the tunic shape?

 

[Marc mndt]

Could it be narrow shoulders contributing to the tunic shape?

I think it's a combination of the long body and a lack of flare towards the hem, aviators look best if they flare out a bit.

 

[Marc mndt]

I haven't heard anyone complain about the zippers yet, in the previous thread it was all about the excessive number of zippers making the jacket "look like a Christmas tree" lol.

 

[MrProper]

The large has a 26.5” back length? That is indeed long.

I don't think so. All my jackets have that more or less. Lol

 

[KBlake]

I don't think so. All my jackets have that more or less. Lol

You’re extremely tall. For most people it’s too long.

 

[MrProper]

You’re extremely tall. For most people it’s too long.

I know. Should be funny. Didn't work out

 

[Edward]

Interesting thread. I'm with the consensus, largely. The jacket doesn't look too big, but it's definitely been altered in pattern to suit contemporary fashion. For myself, I'd want the body of the jacket a good couple of inches shorter at least, and soe sort of tabs to pull in the fit at the waist. Personal preference is everything: I wouldn't buy a jacket with a 'modern' fit, but I'm sure there are those who prefer this sort of thing. As a rule of thumb, unless it's something like a Barbour International / Belstaff Trialmaster, if it needs a double ended zip to make it comfortable sitting down, then for me it's too long. I rather like a lot of leathers that length, but they are buttoned, and were designed that length in the first place. This one somewhat reminds me of overcoats I saw recently which went the other way - someone had taken a 1930s pattern but shortened it for current fashion norms, so it was a 30s overcoat in every way except about 15" shorter. It just looked off. When you start messing with things like that with an original pattern, you have to change a lot more to make it sit right, or it throws the whole balance off.

Beyond that, though, it's personal choice whether you like that sort of thing. Schott are far from alone in doing this; a while back I looked at a Wrangler denim jacket that was a supposed reissue of an original 50s style. Unfortunately Wrangler had changed a lot of the details. I could have lived without the pleats on the front, even with the studs instead of the original zip. Adding several inches to the length and slimming down the sleeves visibly, however, just ruined the whole proportion of the jacket and made it look odd.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

For the record I tried that jacket on at Schott a while back and it was massively too long on me. I'm 5'7" 170 like the OP, although I think we have different body types. Either way, I felt like the jacket was at least 1.5" too long in the body for the style.