Scandinavian leather - translation, please.

[H.Johnson]

I know that there are a few Scandinavian loungers, I wonder if someone could translate the label on a leather coat I just bought. The coats are in a local surplus shop and the rack is labelled 'Swedish Military Coats'. The last thing I need at the moment is another leather coat, but at 35 GBP could I let it go???

The style is something like a pea-coat with hand warmer pockets, or to put it another way a slightly shorter Barnstormer without a belt. It has a nice round collar, almost like a French tanker coat, ten buttons and 'American' cuff straps. The label looks civilian (apart from a separate label that bears a military-style inspection stamp) and says. 'SPPs Malung Helmslojd' and 'Acta Chromnappa'. I assume that the first is the name of the maker. It's the second item that interests me. 'Acta' presumably means 'Real', 'Chrom' possibly refers to the mineral salts tanning process, but what does 'nappa' mean in this context?

In Britain the term 'nappa' refers to a specific type of leather (and process) that this most definitely is not that type - in fact I would say it is horsehide (but let's not go there...). Does 'nappa' apply to leather in general in Swedish (or whatever language it is)?

 

[BigHairyFinn]

'SPPs Malung Helmslojd' and 'Acta Chromnappa'.

SPPs Malung Hemslöjd

OK, so Malung is a town.
Hemslöjd is... hrm... something like "home industry" so a "Handcraft of Malun"

the SPPs might be a possessive of SPP... which the only one I know offhand is a pension insurance company... but it might be something else of the era.

Äkta Chromnappa

As you expected "Genuine Chrome Nappa"

Now looking at the map I'd bet at a moose rather than a horse. But as far as the type of leather - lets say theres two types - nappa and mokka. Mokka is suede, so that leaves anything with a shiny surface then as nappa in common speech. Of course then theres nupukki... but you get the idea.

 

[H.Johnson]

Thanks for the information. I had some good times in Espoo some time ago - I loved Helsinki and admired the directness of its fine citizens.

I was half afraid you'd say it could be moosehide. I'm beginning to lose count of the instances in which I've said that it is harder than some people think to distinguish between horshide and the hide of other animals. This is such a cause of contention on some forums that I always try to avoid the issue.

Let's just say that it is chrome tanned (blue tinge), has clearly been split (shows top grain) but shows little sign of surface compaction (can separate the surface as with a sheep nappa). It has a fine follicle structure. The grain is nice.

 

[BigHairyFinn]

Well, if you have a mate at the university with a biology department and a DNA lab its easy

The thing here is that moose and reindeer are quite "available" as local skins. And seal used to be... and of course dog mittens...

 

[H.Johnson]

I do have such, as it happens, but we have not had much success so far in recovering DNA samples that are capable of being analysed from tanned hides.

I haven't seen either moose or reindeer hide before, but I agree that garments are often made from whatever is available locally. Whatever it is, it sure looks like horsehide. I think I've just discovered a new source of leather controversy...

 

[BigHairyFinn]

To be honest the only ones I can tell is pigskin they make a lot of suede as well as gloves from vs. cowhide.... the rest are a bit exotic skins...

OK => http://www.ultimathule.fi/product_catalog.php?c=2&page=2
here you see
hirvennahka = moose skin
poronnahka = reindeer skin
lammasnahka = lamb skin (means usually one side leather and the wool on other)

Now you could always write them and ask if they have samples... they sell whole reindeer skins (not pelts) or how about moose gloves and a reindeer wallet

I know up north they make coats and such out of reindeer skin... now for a "mosquito armor" something like this would be the thing:

But it seems the majority of stuff is bags and such.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

HJ, is that yon belted number? With the lovely blanket cloth liner? Scandinavian, not German, eh?

bk

 

[celtic]

I thought this thread was going to be about Turbonegro's album of the same name..

 

[H.Johnson]

HJ, is that yon belted number? With the lovely blanket cloth liner? Scandinavian, not German, eh?

bk

Half-belted with a grey blanket lining. It's nice. Definitely made in Sweden. I'm not completely convinced that it is military. Only the additional plain white label and the fact that there were a number of similar examples in a military surplus store made me think that. The main label certainly looks civilian.

On the subject of the hide, I showed it to a friend who was a leather buyer for a local shoe company for most of his working life. Now, contrary to what people may think, the shoe industry uses a wider range of leather than the clothing industry - his experience is vast, but doesn't include reindeer or moose. Very attractive grain structure, anyway.

He agreed with me that it had some of the qualities of horsehide, but that the follicle count was very high. This isn't that unusual in Britain as some of our native upland pony breeds (popular as children's pets) have very fine, dense hair - usually this is an indication of an animal that is bred for life in a cold climate.

This could well include reindeer or moose, or as you say, hirvennahka or poronnahka.

 

[H.Johnson]

HJ, is that yon belted number? With the lovely blanket cloth liner? Scandinavian, not German, eh?

bk

Yes, but if I was into 'hype' I would call it a 'U-boot jacke' and the description wouldn't be far off.

 

[KittyT]

fftopic: All I could think when I read the title "Scandinavian Leather" was "TURBONEGRO!" I bet no one here knows what I'm talking about.

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

 

[celtic]

fftopic: All I could think when I read the title "Scandinavian Leather" was "TURBONEGRO!" I bet no one here knows what I'm talking about.

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

post # 8 begs to differ....

 

[KittyT]

post # 8 begs to differ....

My bad. At least someone else here shares some of my musical sensibilities!

 

[BellyTank]

HJohnson,
your black leather jacket(I have not seen it, but...) sounds like a military/police item to me. Civilian style labels are not uncommon on Swedish military garments.
I once had one of the Swedish wool uniform jackets- you know the type-
anyway, it had a large, colourful label, "Tiger", which is now a Swedish(international) fashion brand. Tiger was, I think, Sweden's first real off the rack menswear manufacturer, back in the day.

Do you have an image of the coat to show..?


B
T

 

[BellyTank]

Turbo Negro my Teapot.
Hell Bent.


B
T

 

[H.Johnson]

HJohnson,
your black leather jacket(I have not seen it, but...) sounds like a military/police item to me. Civilian style labels are not uncommon on Swedish military garments.
I once had one of the Swedish wool uniform jackets- you know the type-
anyway, it had a large, colourful label, "Tiger", which is now a Swedish(international) fashion brand. Tiger was, I think, Sweden's first real off the rack menswear manufacturer, back in the day.

Do you have an image of the coat to show..?


B
T

BT, Thanks. I'd go along with the semi-military (e.g. police) derivation. An image? Sure - I'll commission an artist to do some engravings...

 

[BellyTank]

I look forward to perusing the etchings of your jacket and the woodcuts of the contents of your wardrobe floor.
Creeping Past might whip you up an aquarel.

Perhaps a brass-rubbing of your Denison Smock snaps is in order?

A Newey.

I'm off to do potato prints on my eyes, then.

B
T