Reproduction Anj-3 jacket spec questions

[LouisBailie]

Were the epaulettes installed on some and deleted on others?

Was the fur collar intended to be the standard or just straight leather? Were they to have a collar stand?

Did most have the inner wind flap on the inside of the front of the jacket?

Were the linings made from different materials and in different colors? Did any come thermal lined?

What brand zippers used on the early prototypes? What brand snaps on the collars?

Was goatskin the only leather used or did some get out with horse hide?

AS usual Aero Alexander Eastman Bill Kelso GoodWear Lost Worlds Flight Suites Authentic and Branded all have given me different answers.

Like to find out what was actually made and what is just speculation.

 

[kojax]

i am looking at one cockpit usa has g1 vintage goatskin with out the fur it has the back belt

 

[KELORGO]

I am no expert on the originals, but take a look at the ones offered by Sporty's Pilot Shop. I have one from when they were made in the US and it is an awesome jacket (especially for the price you can find them on the bay). Even the full retail price on their website will save you a ton over one of the premium brands making repros.

 

[LouisBailie]

I am no expert on the originals, but take a look at the ones offered by Sporty's Pilot Shop. I have one from when they were made in the US and it is an awesome jacket (especially for the price you can find them on the bay). Even the full retail price on their website will save you a ton over one of the premium brands making repros.

I looked at them and the ones Branded is making thanks

 

[Dr H]

I've owned a couple of original mil spec AN-J-3 jackets (unlabelled as ever so unsure of the makers) and a civilian 'AN-J-3' by McGregor Sportswear/Doniger from the 1940s.

One mil spec jacket and the McGregor did not have epaulettes (as part of the original pattern), the other had more robust/wider versions of the A-2 type epaulette (reminiscent of a Dubow pattern).

All of the jackets were designed without mouton collars (I currently own a McGregor Sportswear/Doniger 'M-422A' which is identical to the previous AN-J-3 in all other respects. Non of the jackets had collar stands - simple attachment and similar finish to rear of collar - multiple lines of horizontal stitching or Zig-zag pattern of stitches.

Of my jackets, two had 3/4 length windflaps with the zips meeting in the centre, like a G-1/M-422A; the other had a covered windflap, like an A-2 so the zip was not visible.

The linings in all cases were a silkier Rayon type finish, not the cotton used on the A-2 (no thermal liner).

All zippers were talons, no snaps on the collars.

Both mil spec jackets were goatskin; the civilian AN-J-3 and M-422A are both capeskin - no horsehide.

 

[Fanch]

When this thread was first posted, I immediately opened the G&B website and found that G&B no longer listed their ANJ-3, which leads me to believe that G&B no longer offers their AN-J-3. About a year ago I had ordered a G&B AN-J-3 in size 42T to pick up at the G&B factory while I was in San Diego prior to leaving for a Holland America cruise to Hawaii. However, when I tried on the G&B AN-J-3, I found it at least one size too big, and left the factory with something else.

Anyhow, the G&B website decsribed their ANJ-3 as having the best characteristics of the G-1 and A-2: Made with goatskin but no mouton collar, no epaulettes, knit cuffs standard rib knit and waistband single layer of rib-rack, brass zipper, bi-swing back, underarm gussets, button flap pockets (not snapped like the A-2), polytwill lining (not cotton like the A-2), inside wind flap (not outside like the A-2), and no collar snaps. In other words, the G&B rendition of the ANJ-3 was essentially a G-1 without the mouton collar. As I recall, the G&B website also said that some standard issue ANJ-3's were made with epaulettes and outside wind flap like the A-2.

This is, of course, exactly what Dr H expressed so well in his post above. For whatever reason, the ANJ-3 seemed to fall by the roadside very quickly, which IMO is unfortunate since the ANJ-3 is truly an aviator's jacket. To the best of my knowledge, none of the ANJ-3's were made with mouton collar, and I never did quite warm up to the mouton collar of the G-1 issued to me while I was in the US Navy.

 

[galvestonokie]

I don't consider myself an authority on vintage jackets, but I have seen a few, including the ANJ-3. if memory serves, there does not seem to be a common thread (pun intended) like either the A-2 or USN jackets. I have seen what I recall to be originals with and without epaulettes. I do not recall seeing any with mouton collars, and most have the USN jacket characteristic bi-swing back.
as I spend most of my working and relaxing time in warmer climates, I believe that these are the ideal combination (no mouton, bi-swing back--don't care about epaulettes), but have not yet been able to find a vintage ANJ that would fit.
my advice would be to have a jacket made to your specs. at this point, I am not sure which producers are willing to make you a jacket, but US Authentic could be an option.

Bob

 

[kojax]

gibson barnes makes the f-82 looks the a2 jacket it has the back action back like the g1 jacket

 

[Dr H]

Here is the version with epaulettes (goatskin, maker unknown, size 44-46):

 

[Dr H]

Here is the civilian McGregor version (generous size 40, capeskin):

 

[Fanch]

Great pics Dr H. Brother Andrew seems to be the only one who can source original issued jackets from long ago in excellent shape that seem to fit him like a glove.

 

[Phantomfixer]

I thought the AN-J-3A had the fur collar and epaulettes combo and the AN-J-3 was without the collar and epaulettes...thinking such a short lived transitional jacket there could be several combinations



pic borrowed from ebay auction reference:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151443008785

 

[LouisBailie]

Thanks

Here is the one that I am considering...(that had some different options) if the price can be worked out. Aero goatskin.