Replacing sweatband?

[John Galt]

Sweatband repair

My experience is that the best finds come when you're not looking. But that is another story.

Alan finally reveals his secret and all my hours of searching the 'bay & other sites are laid to waste! Lol


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

My experience is that the best finds come when you're not looking. But that is another story.

That's a pretty complicated issue, Alan ;o)

With Google it's possible to do a site-specific search. If you want to restrict the search to TFL, you can write:

unreeded sweatband site:thefedoralounge.com

- in the field. Then the results will come exclusively from TFL

 

[alanfgag]

That's a pretty complicated issue, Alan ;o)

I was just about to start a new thread about Schrödinger's hat, but of course, it exists.

 

[TheDane]

Not long ago, Aaron had an encounter with the species, I guess. When he recieved a prestine boxed Knox 100 at the door - didn't open it, but took the time to take a picture of the box and upload it ... with a promise to open the box and upload more pics later ...!?!!

 

[Lotsahats]

And when I opened it, I broke another law of physics. I was in two places at once--beside myself with joy.

A

 

[TheDane]

Well don't be sorry, Aaron. It sounds bad but I guess "wormholes and entanglement" is a lot more useful cocktail than "moth divots and felt"

 

[mmbarnes]

Does anyone know someone who can resew a sweatband onto a vintage beaver top hat? I have this Dobbs that has dry rotted thread. The sweatband itself is in great condition though.

If the sweatband were not so nice, I'd probably just have it replaced. But I would very much prefer to keep the hat in as close to an original condition as possible. It isn't a question of value, so much as my desire for authenticity.

It seems to me that the bottom of the band where it is currently stitched could be trimmed off and the remaining band stitched back on.

Has anyone had that done? If so, by whom? And how did the end product turn out?

Thanks

Matt
- A day without a hat is like night.

 

[Lorne]

My go-to is Salmagundi in Boston. They've put sweat bands in three of my hats; a vintage Adams, Stetson and unknown maker's bowler.

They had to hand stitch the bowler's in, so I know they do hand work.

 

[Tomasso]

Does anyone know someone who can resew a sweatband onto a vintage beaver top hat?

I'd call Optimo.

 

[TheDane]

Milliners are used to do most sewing by hand, so that would probably be a good solution to your problem

 

[Strapped-4-Cache]

I'm new to owning nicer headwear, so please forgive me if the following comment is erroneous.

Wouldn't it be possible for the OP to follow the holes in the sweatband and sew it in himself? I understand it may be a tedious task, bit if the problem is that the original thread has dry rotted and the sweatband itself is still in good shape, tacking the band back in by following the existing holes seems like something that could be done during some idle time at home.

I only mention this because I recently took out the tattered sweatband from an old Pilgrim and replaced it with a wide grosgrain ribbon. As noted, it was a bit tedious but not really difficult. My work is FAR from professional, but I didn't have existing holes to use as a reference when replacing the sweatband either. I used thread which matched the color of the hat and was pleased that none of the stitches are visible, but was glad to see that the outer ribbon would have concealed most, if not all, of them anyway.

Just an observation.

 

[Roan]

Wouldn't it be possible for the OP to follow the holes in the sweatband and sew it in himself?.

That's probably what I will end up attempting; I was just hoping that perhaps one of the custom hatters might have been able to make this type of repair as the needle doesn't go all the way through the felt when it's sewn, just through a portion of it and comes back out through the leather; and if you don't go deep enough and get enough fibers you risk damaging the felt by tearing a small section of it. I know it wouldn't be the end of the world, I just was hoping there was an alternative.

 

[TheDane]

Roan: That's exactly why I suggested a milliner. They are usually a lot better at seamstress work than hatters. A traditionally trained master hatter would have learned to hand stitch - and also to do so with hidden stitches, that won't penetrate the felt. Those techniques can be learned by a more or less autodidact custom hatter, but it would probably be safer to leave it to a formally trained milliner.

 

[Roan]

Ok, I'll have to see if I can find a milliner close by that I can take it to have it looked at.

 

[OT1899]

Howdy folks, I have been searching the Lounge for the better part of an hour using the search features noted above trying to find some "do it yourself" tips (other than sending it to a hatter) for sweatband replacements. Specifically, I'm trying to figure out how to get the nice bell shape in the sweatband like in a factory Stetson that helps keep the smooth part in touch with your head instead of the threaded part. I read an old post in the archives that said to cut the sweat on a 20 degree angle before sewing and to use a ferrule to hold the monofilament reed. It also mentioned "flanging" the sweat and referred to some pics that are no longer available. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you in advance...

 

[John Galt]

Howdy folks, I have been searching the Lounge for the better part of an hour using the search features noted above trying to find some "do it yourself" tips (other than sending it to a hatter) for sweatband replacements. Specifically, I'm trying to figure out how to get the nice bell shape in the sweatband like in a factory Stetson that helps keep the smooth part in touch with your head instead of the threaded part. I read an old post in the archives that said to cut the sweat on a 20 degree angle before sewing and to use a ferrule to hold the monofilament reed. It also mentioned "flanging" the sweat and referred to some pics that are no longer available. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you in advance...

Check out the conversion corral and the hatters tools threads. I recently posted a how to for creating a reeded sweatband like you describe. The 20% angle cut probably addresses a different issue - the so-called "self conforming sweatband" that is patented by Resistol.

 

[TheDane]

Not quite John, that is usually done with all reeded sweats. You cut the ends at a 10-20° angle, "narrowing" toward the top of the sweatband. That is done to ensure tapering of the sweatband. The "too long" reed ensures belling along the bottom - while the angle makes it taper

 

[John Galt]

Not quite John, that is usually done with all reeded sweats. You cut the ends at a 10-20° angle, "narrowing" toward the top of the sweatband. That is done to ensure tapering of the sweatband. The "too long" reed ensures belling along the bottom - while the angle makes it taper

Thanks for the correction Ole! I understand, but I had always thought it was part of the patented process. As a recipient of a certificate in High Tech Law from Santa Clara University School of Law, I am a little embarrassed to admit I've never actually looked at the subject Beyer-Rolnick/Resistol patent to confirm that understanding. I will do so promptly!

 

[TheDane]

There were all kinds of different "Self Conforming" sweats, though the designation changed. The Beyer-Rolnick/Resistol patent was just one drop in the ocean

 

[scotrace]

I still have the other two hats in my closet, needing new sweats...

This one came from someone (years ago) who beat me at the auction for it, then contacted me to buy it from him after he got it at the inflated price. I must have wanted it badly because I bit. He said he got it for a relative who didn't want it, but given that the sweatband fell apart as soon as I touched it, I think I was someone had.