Regular CXL HH Vs CXL FQHH

[jonesy86]

I'll have you know that Front Quarter Horsehide was "Proved Best By Laboratory Test".

 

[AeroFan_07]

I should try that Barrel test. I have a perfect "test" jacket for it just now in fact...
Where is my gravel & sand mixture? Home Depot is 5 minuites away...

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I'll have you know that Front Quarter Horsehide was "Proved Best By Laboratory Test".

View attachment 375537

the frozen solid in ice test. So that's where those tech flashlight guys got that idea from. How about FQHH test with truck running over it??? Need that to seal the deal.

 

[jonesy86]

It goes to show you that marketing been marketing for a long time.

 

[navetsea]

maybe by using only specific section of the hide, it guarantees more consistency across the panels perhaps? reducing the effort to individually clicking the pattern positioning over the entire hide to balance the texture, thickness, and grain looks. I wonder if it creates more wastage since the hide is obviously cut smaller and there would be a lot more wasted corners of a good hide too small to use for anything.

 

[Edward]

maybe by using only specific section of the hide, it guarantees more consistency across the panels perhaps? reducing the effort to individually clicking the pattern positioning over the entire hide to balance the texture, thickness, and grain looks. I wonder if it creates more wastage since the hide is obviously cut smaller and there would be a lot more wasted corners of a good hide too small to use for anything.

These offcuts are why God invented leather accessories like laptop sleeves and wallets, so that when we take from nature we need waste as little as possible...

I used to love only heavy leather, but as I experienced more style than just bike leathers, I came to learn that a] leather doesn't have to be the heaviest to be durable, nor is any one type of hide the 'best' for every design. I remember being shown in the Aero factory how they prefer not to use certain hides for certain designs; the CXL steerhide, for example, is a bit too heavy for the pleats on a Dustbowl back to really 'work' as intended.

IMO, much of the allure that horsehide carries over steer or other, more commonly available, leathers is that it is simply not as common nowadays (plus the notion that it was the "correct, original" leather for the A2; these sorts of details matter when you're preparing to spend big money on a milspec repop). It's a bit like spearpoint collars, or brown suits. Go to any 'vintage' event, and you'll see both of those represented almost disproportionately compared to the reality of the 30s/40s. At this distance, however, they seem "more vintage" than other colours or collar shapes, which were plentiful in the actual period, because nowadays you rarely see a brown suit or a spearpoint collar. Many other colours / collars were available then and still are common; because they're still common they seem less desirably "vintage" than what you don't see much / at all now.

 

[Sabir Asaria]

There's some antagonism rising toward Aero as of late and while I agree their patterns do leave a lot to be desired when it comes to comfort, the fact remains that they just may be responsible for the fact that this scene at all exists.
One man's vision & dedication to stick to constructing a high-quality, sturdy, tough leather garments in a world of mass produced, imported junk, is infinitely commendable, especially since they too could've taken the easy way and just go the way of anyone else. Sticking with that vision is what I am 100% convinced, inspired many other makers to follow this path.

I have noticed this rise in antagonism too.

To my eyes its a very recent development as while researching my jacket on here just as recently as mid 2020, I found Aero to be generally very well loved highly regarded...

With regards to the patterns, I have only experience with my PHWM and I absolutely love everything about it. I find it quite comfortable considering it's still breaking in and I actually LOVE the heft of the FQHH used and am quite enjoying the break in process

 

[Sabir Asaria]

More Edit: [USER=59948]@Sabir Asaria SB does not offer CXL HH or FQHH, only CXL Steerhides. I think this may be an exclusive contract between Horween and Aero. Although SB's Milan HH is awfully similar. We all have to make a living right. Johnson can get CXL FQHH, but it's extra cost.[/USER]

Thanks for pointing this out... had overlooked that it was Steer! :)

 

[moktabe]

I have noticed this too rise in antagonism too.

To my eyes its a very recent development as while researching my jacket on here just as recently as mid 2020, I found Aero to be generally very well loved highly regarded...

With regards to the patterns, I have only experience with my PHWM and I absolutely love everything about it. I find it quite comfortable considering it's still breaking in and I actually LOVE the heft of the FQHH used and am quite enjoying the break in process

I think it's just a normal human trait for favouritism of any specific brand to come and go.

Like yourself, I spent hours looking around on here at different manufacturers and styles. We're all different and something that someone thinks is the dogs nuts wouldn't be given houseroom by someone else

I'm fortunate enough to live only a 6hr drive from Aero so I could go up there, have a look around, accepted that they'd know better than I did what would fit as intended etc. The simple fact that I could chat with them about some customisation and getting advice on what they could and couldn't do was invaluable to me.

Hence me ending up with 2 x Aero jackets and a 3rd on the way. One is CXL Steerhide and the other (plus the one coming) is in Badalassi.

Originally fancied FQHH but the more photos I saw on here the less I fancied it. Might be just my perception (or my eyesight) but it appeared that the CXLSH gave a softer roll on any creases that developed.

 

[Sabir Asaria]

Appreciate all the participation

Hearing from Hide'n'seek was especially great as information from the source goes a long way in clarifying doubts.

I think most of my questions regarding CXL used for Jackets have been answered. It’s good to know that ALL Aero jackets using HH are Front Quarter…. And also that most HH jackets regardless of the manufacturer or tannery, would be made using FQHH

The only question that remains in my mind is Aero’s claim that CXL FQHH is available exclusively from them. I take it as Aero is the only jacket manufacturer that provides CXL FQHH (CXL referring to Horween’s proprietary leather) as an off the shelf option … i.e. without it being a special order/custom collaboration ?

 

[AeroFan_07]

the frozen solid in ice test. So that's where those tech flashlight guys got that idea from. How about FQHH test with truck running over it??? Need that to seal the deal.

This could be facilitated...

 

[Aloysius]

I'll have you know that Front Quarter Horsehide was "Proved Best By Laboratory Test".

View attachment 375537

Note that a lack of premature wear was seen as a plus there, as opposed to the “tea core” insanity.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Appreciate all the participation

Hearing from Hide'n'seek was especially great as information from the source goes a long way in clarifying doubts.

I think most of my questions regarding CXL used for Jackets have been answered. It’s good to know that ALL Aero jackets using HH are Front Quarter…. And also that most HH jackets regardless of the manufacturer or tannery, would be made using FQHH

The only question that remains in my mind is Aero’s claim that CXL FQHH is available exclusively from them. I take it as Aero is the only jacket manufacturer that provides CXL FQHH (CXL referring to Horween’s proprietary leather) as an off the shelf option … i.e. without it being a special order/custom collaboration ?

I believe Horween CXL FQHH is exclusive to Aero in England. And maybe EU and ROW too?
In the US, every jacket maker can get Horween's CXL FQHH if they can meet the minimum wholesale buy. Which is about 200 square feet I believe, so about 5 to 6 jackets.
But Aero has the widest stock in different colors of the Horween CXL FQHH. For the money they charge on the sale page, it's hard to get a CXL HH jacket made for less. It is also the best leather Aero offers imo.

 

[Aloysius]

I think it's just a normal human trait for favouritism of any specific brand to come and go.

Like yourself, I spent hours looking around on here at different manufacturers and styles. We're all different and something that someone thinks is the dogs nuts wouldn't be given houseroom by someone else

I agree, but re: Aero in particular, it seemed to go from perhaps too much favouritism for Aero… to contempt for Aero. A very odd pendulum swing.

I believe Horween CXL FQHH is exclusive to Aero in England. And maybe EU and ROW too?
In the US, every jacket maker can get Horween's CXL FQHH if they can meet the minimum wholesale buy. Which is about 200 square feet I believe, so about 5 to 6 jackets.
But Aero has the widest stock in different colors of the Horween CXL FQHH. For the money they charge on the sale page, it's hard to get a CXL HH jacket made for less. It is also the best leather Aero offers imo.

I've wondered which jackets are really best suited (design wise) to CXL (whether FQHH or steer). Which Aeros are designed around it, rather than just available with it because it's Aero's 'house leather' (so to say)?

 

[Sabir Asaria]

I believe Horween CXL FQHH is exclusive to Aero in England. And maybe EU and ROW too?

Not quite sure about that:

From their website:

“That said by 1930 Front Quarter Horsehide was fast becoming the leather of choice in USA for such jacket so our new 1930s Highwayman will also be available in our legendary Chromexcel Heavy Front Quarter Horsehide, a leather exclusive to Aero and not available from any other jacket manufacturer.”

https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2428

 

[Sabir Asaria]

I agree, but re: Aero in particular, it seemed to go from perhaps too much favouritism for Aero… to contempt for Aero. A very odd pendulum swing.

IMHO the above is spot on!

FWIW, it has also coincided with an upsurge in the ‘appreciation’ for Japanese/Shinki jackets

I've wondered which jackets are really best suited (design wise) to CXL (whether FQHH or steer). Which Aeros are designed around it, rather than just available with it because it's Aero's 'house leather' (so to say)?

That’s a GREAT question and I’m sure a lot of people would like to know!

 

[Marc mndt]

I agree, but re: Aero in particular, it seemed to go from perhaps too much favouritism for Aero… to contempt for Aero. A very odd pendulum swing.

How did you come to this observation / conclusion. I see lots of Aero jackets being praised here on TFL, daily. Definitely more praise than criticism.

 

[Aloysius]

How did you come to this observation / conclusion. I see lots of Aero jackets being praised here on TFL, daily. Definitely more praise than criticism.

I think there's a distinction to be made between the ubiquitous 'check out my outfit' posts and the posts by the subsection that has or seems to have expertise. It's the latter that switched from being overly team Aero to overly team anti-Aero.

 

[Harris HTM]

or seems to have expertise

Bingo. Once upon a time here there were some "experts" who praised the aforementioned CXL FQHH above CXL steer and could pinpoint the differences that made it better... until it was proven that the "FQHH" was actually steer.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I agree, but re: Aero in particular, it seemed to go from perhaps too much favouritism for Aero… to contempt for Aero. A very odd pendulum swing.



I've wondered which jackets are really best suited (design wise) to CXL (whether FQHH or steer). Which Aeros are designed around it, rather than just available with it because it's Aero's 'house leather' (so to say)?

I have Aero jacket in most of their leathers, except the newest house leather, Kelpie. And I don't really see the difference in how Vicenza would make the same Aero pattern different than CXL FQHH. The Aero jacket is cut like a British suit. Military style. Flat Shoulder, drop 6 taper. Any of their leather would fit more or less the same, but CXL horse is the best in terms of value, and least maintenance. All horsehides from Aero has the same stiffness temper which is about a Medium. No horsehide is softer than a medium soft. Only Steers and Deers and Sheeps and Goats and Kudus...etc. can get glovey. All my Vicenza has shrunked in room temperature (22 Celcius) after getting wet. Same goes all my veggies including Shinki. I can get them back but takes time and work. CXL ask nothing of me, always there to do what it was bred to do. Except it does take some time to warm up the stiff wax. But stiffen veggies can be even stiffer. At least wax softens.

What I am trying to say is that CXL FQHH is the bomb. Your experience may be different. But this is mine. I would choose CXL Horse over CXL steer because it is more "special" in terms of availability. For steerhides Horween has a lot of other options, like Essex, Utica, Dearborn...etc. But horse hide only comes in CXL or Vermont (Painted), or rarely Roadmaster, Cavalier, Essex...etc. For the same money CXL horse does NOT have equal.