Canuck Panda
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PSA. Regius got some Maryam horsehides.
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Regius Made Leather Jacket
- Thread starter Canuck Panda
- Start date
Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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For a minute I was in shock lol. I knew it was going to be heavy but this is next level. I've never handled a halfbelt / aviator this thick and heavy. It feels like wearing a piece of armor, similar to a '50s Cal CHP. Next to this my other jackets suddenly feel flimsy lol. Luckily the weight totally disappears as soon as you put it on.
We didn't have an original in hands to work from, we only had a bunch of pics I collected though the years. I say @regius totally killed it. Really impressive.
Some originals
Regius
He absolutely murdered the back. Work of art.
Stunning jacket!!! When I look at it I get the same feeling I have looking at mine. It’s like new old stock, true vintage. I also think it’s apparent that Reg’s patterns are the polar opposite the Japanese repro style (narrow shoulders and tubular bodies). The jackets are athletes cut and the fit really bears that out. The rounded hem is a nice touch and the back on that jacket is absolutely a work of art! Reg is notching his belt like Mike Tyson in the late 80’s. Unbeatable.
Marc mndt
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100%
When putting this jacket on it doesn't feel like I'm wearing a repro / modern interpretation. It feels like I'm wearing one of my vintage halfbelts.
Full review will follow once I've had the chance to take some proper fit pics.
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It looks fantastic! The original and Reg's version nearly seamlessly fade one into another. I wish I still had interest in jackets, I'd be planning things up already...
Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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Reginald went above and beyond to get those pleats absolutely perfect. The first iterations he flattened the tube from top to bottom. Then he noticed that the originals had the pleats folded towards the side panels so he redid them that way. He still wasn't happy because the pleats were totally straight yet the originals had a slight bend towards the top, like flames. So he redid them once more folding the pleats towards the side panels but this time only flattening the base and not the top, creating a more playful look than the perfectly straight pleats.
Those pleats are like Logan's claws! It really is a testimony to his desire to learn with those practice pieces and it paid off in spades on the finished jacket.
Brandrea33
One Too Many
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- 1,093
What a beauty Marc. Can’t wait to see it on!
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Absolutely agree, a great hide. Definitely one I feel good riding in.
It’s a beauty, all around.
Regius’ attention to detail, patience as he learns/adapts is extraordinary.
Canuck Panda
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I know Reg worked long hours on this jacket. From sourcing the Hermann Oak, to pattern making.
About Hermann Oak, they're very well known for veg tan tooling leather. But they've also gotten into the veg tan sides business. The leather is chrome free base tanning, slightly different from tradition bark tan, the chrome free chestnut tanning (wet white) can withstand the heat as well as chrome base (wet blue), but no chrome salt. They have three different stuffing levels, level one with just oil and fats, soft to medium temper, level two add more wax, medium to stiff temper, level three add a lot of wax and become stiff temper. They come in thick weights only. So in order for Reg to use them for clothing he had to special order to have them thin down to 4oz give or take 0.5oz. Heavyweight stuff. Hermann Oak sides are priced slightly higher than Horween's Essex sides to give a comparable. From what I am seeing the grain finish is on par with Badalassi, and I need to get myself one of these guys.
About Reg's pattern, he went through at least 3 prototype jackets before making the final one for Marc. I have the Mk2 one that he was gonna throw into the bin. His pattern is athletic cut like Ton said. Neat fitting but athletic. Can't judge by the numbers on these type of patterns. They have more curve in the shoulder and panels are sewn to mold to the body from new. Very comfortable and neat fitting at the same time.
I also know that he has a stock pile of vintage parts, from NOS zippers to buckles to fabric. I am not a vintage nut but he is. Even on the prototypes that was going into the bins he used NOS parts... He's all about vintage.
What could be really helpful now is to take photos of every vintage bits he's got and make a web store. Website is so important these days. Takes forever to do but totally worth it.
Marc you got an amazing jacket from Reg. Congrats!
About Hermann Oak, they're very well known for veg tan tooling leather. But they've also gotten into the veg tan sides business. The leather is chrome free base tanning, slightly different from tradition bark tan, the chrome free chestnut tanning (wet white) can withstand the heat as well as chrome base (wet blue), but no chrome salt. They have three different stuffing levels, level one with just oil and fats, soft to medium temper, level two add more wax, medium to stiff temper, level three add a lot of wax and become stiff temper. They come in thick weights only. So in order for Reg to use them for clothing he had to special order to have them thin down to 4oz give or take 0.5oz. Heavyweight stuff. Hermann Oak sides are priced slightly higher than Horween's Essex sides to give a comparable. From what I am seeing the grain finish is on par with Badalassi, and I need to get myself one of these guys.
About Reg's pattern, he went through at least 3 prototype jackets before making the final one for Marc. I have the Mk2 one that he was gonna throw into the bin. His pattern is athletic cut like Ton said. Neat fitting but athletic. Can't judge by the numbers on these type of patterns. They have more curve in the shoulder and panels are sewn to mold to the body from new. Very comfortable and neat fitting at the same time.
I also know that he has a stock pile of vintage parts, from NOS zippers to buckles to fabric. I am not a vintage nut but he is. Even on the prototypes that was going into the bins he used NOS parts... He's all about vintage.
What could be really helpful now is to take photos of every vintage bits he's got and make a web store. Website is so important these days. Takes forever to do but totally worth it.
Marc you got an amazing jacket from Reg. Congrats!
Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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- 7,345
The D rings on this jacket are NOS North and Judd. The main zipper is a NOS Mash A2 triple mark Talon. Chest zipper is a 'military grade' Conmar. The pulls for the main and chest zippers are vintage '30s and were sourced by @Damon141.
Body lining is wool Harris tweed. The sleeves are lined with Michael Miller cotton (A2 jacket lining).
Canuck Panda
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Very nice. He has more. A stockpile of vintage stuff, 50's fabrics, lesser known zips but old, vintage buckles big and small. Lots of goodies. But I am only interested in the Hermann Oak hide at this point. Just sent him a message about doing a straight zip jacket in that HO hide, I think Heritage 1881 is the tannage name, I could be wrong, best to ask him.
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Marc mndt
I'll Lock Up
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The hermann oak heritage steerhide doesn't have the color depth of Badalassi but I have a feeling it will get better with wear. It looks and feels like it will easily develop nice patina. There's hardly any squeaking going on. It's firm without being stiff and it molds to your body within minutes. What I like most about it is how the leather develops rolls instead of creases. Similar to horsebutt engineer boots.
Canuck Panda
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The hide looks pretty good. Here is one I've been looking at on YT. The Hermann Oak will have more striated lines than the Badalassi which I like. Mostly it seems to drape very well too. I think these comes in 6oz or thicker. And Reg had to get them skived down to about 4oz to clear the machine and not have jackets weigh a ton.
Fastforward 30 seconds to see the leather grains:
mvilla
Practically Family
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- 513
- Location
- Nottingham, UK
Did you dye the zips yourself? How did you do it?
Besides, on a completely off the subject question, where do you manage to mine your deadstock stuff? I wanna find a nice pin buckle to use on a half belt
Canuck Panda
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Reg has these dog bone frame looking buckles. And probably more in his vintage parts bin.
Benny Holiday
My Mail is Forwarded Here
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- Sydney Australia
Looking at this level of workmanship and dedication, I'm starting to think we've misspelt his name. It's more like Genius than Regius. Simply outstanding.
