Real McCoy buco j 100 vs Eastman j 100 vs aero j 100 ?

[G'c]

hi guys and girls,

I always wanted THE original cafe racer ( owner the vanson model b and others as well), and noted there are quite a few repros on this.

I know it’s unlikely that members here own two of the same model of the above brands at the same time, but most grateful if members who do own one of the models above could share what they think are the pros and cons of their buco j 100

For e.g. leather quality and grain, cut of the jacket , hardware preference , functionality ( internal pockets etc)

I myself am interested in so called tea core , but not sure if Eastman’s horsehide or Aeros offer the same thing .

Thanks a lot !

 

[nick123]

I'd go Real McCoy based on looks alone. Someone here would know, but I think they have two kinds of black horsehide-tanned to teacore and dyed one color all the way through.

The Aero is a fine jacket. I had one. May be easiest as can be done up custom in all sorts of arrangements. I'd opt for a jerky horsehide for the teacore look. I had a navy Vicenza one! The girlfriend reminds me all the time I should have never sold it. Plenty of review threads here on Aero's version.

Eastman's J-100 is a relative mystery here. So far, little in the way of evaluations. I am very fond of the Californian, and Eastman uses a fine, easy-going medium weight leather.

Don't forget Diamond Dave. Plenty of info on his popular J-100 here, eapecially in his Shinki horse. His leathers, as @A-1 can attest to, are totally hardcore teacore.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Genuine Bucos were a pretty long fit. Aero allows for that option if you are tall. I need a back length of around 27-28 inches the others are shortish.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I believe that out of what you listed, only Real McCoy's offer tea core leather for their jackets. I could be mistaken, but from what I have seen, Aero's Vicenza leather does not come in a tea core option. Hopefully someone will chime in and know for sure.

Out of what you listed, I would choose the Real McCoy's version if it fits you well. They are the only brand that actually owns the rights to use the Buco name and as many here know, I personally believe Shinki is the best leather around and at the very least, their tea core is absolutely stunning. Also, the construction will likely be the tightest and most neatly stitched out of the brands listed.

With that said, don't leave Thedi leathers or Himel Bros. off the table. Both make fine jackets out of incredible leather and I believe that both will allow custom options. I know for a fact that Himel will make a made-to-measure jacket and also uses Shinki tea core leather. Thedi offers a supposedly softer leather and is considerably less expensive while making a killer horsehide jacket.

As I said, for quality of hide, especially if you want tea core, I believe that Shinki absolutely cannot be beat. Many on here are not fans of the leather which is of course fair, but it's certainly my preference and the preference of many.

As for cut, I think they all do a great job, but RMC's is the slimmest of all. If you like that and fit into that, it's amazing. However, I would argue that the most beautiful of all the cafe racer jackets is Himel's Kensington model. This jacket is stunningly gorgeous and somehow sets itself apart, despite being a variation of the most simple jacket design around.

I own Himel and Real McCoy's jackets (though I do not own cafe racers/J-100s from them) and if I were to buy a cafe racer jacket right now, my order would be:

1. Himel
2. Real McCoys
3. Thedi
4. Aero

As stated previously, the Eastman cafe racer is a bit of a mystery around here so I cannot comment on it at all.

 

[G'c]

Thanks a lot for your comments!!

Based on your recommendations .... I may need to ask my wife to check out the real McCoy’s london Shop to see the price there... any ideas if it’s more expensive over there ...?

Damn if rmc is the way to go ... this option seems to be the most expensive ...

@dudewuttheheck , May I please ask in general why you prefer Shinki, and why some ppl do not agree with you ? Curious to know thanks !

Now I am interested in the eastman one too due to the “mystery” factor lol

 

[Fonzie]

In terms of quality/price ratio, Aero x Thurston's Bros Buco in Blackened Brown Vincenza is probably your best bet, also the most versatile option as it allows you more custom scope if you want to make it your own style.
My favourite option nevertheless would be The Real McCoy's one though, it's got something special about it.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Thanks a lot for your comments!!

Based on your recommendations .... I may need to ask my wife to check out the real McCoy’s london Shop to see the price there... any ideas if it’s more expensive over there ...?

Damn if rmc is the way to go ... this option seems to be the most expensive ...

@dudewuttheheck , May I please ask in general why you prefer Shinki, and why some ppl do not agree with you ? Curious to know thanks !

Now I am interested in the eastman one too due to the “mystery” factor lol

I personally love Shinki due to its weight, feel, depth of color, and aging. While many here will say that it is lightweight, it is not. It is actually fairly substantial. Now, it is relatively light compared to heavier leathers such as Horween CXL, the leather that Lost Worlds uses, and Vanson's competition weight cowhide. However, those are all chrome tanned or combination tanned. Compared to most purely vegetable tanned leathers, Shink is actually relatively thick and substantial. It is known to be stiffer and more substantial than Aero's Vicenza, Thedi's horsehide, and Eastman's horsehide. This doesn't make it better than those leathers, but I personally think of it as a perfect balance. It does start out relatively stiff as well and this means that the arm creasing that develops on this leather is absolutely incredible.

The look of the leather is also by far my favorite. It starts out with a gorgeous luster that I have seen in no other jacket leather. This gives it a depth of color that I don't think any other jacket leather has. Many complain about it being too smooth, but I don't see this as a problem because the character develops as you wear it. In addition, there are many examples of shinki that actually start out with a lot of grain. Also, while I'm not crazy into teacore, I have never seen such a beautiful tea core leather as shinki.

With all this said, discussing why you love a leather is difficult. Many love CXL due to its heft and the way it breaks in, but I am sure that there are other reasons that I cannot explain because it's not my cup of tea for example. I don't think anyone can truly explain why they love a leather adequately.

 

[ProteinNerd]

What about Goodwear and/or Diamond Dave? They both also offer a good option for a J-100

 

[eugenesque]

hi guys and girls,

I always wanted THE original cafe racer ( owner the vanson model b and others as well), and noted there are quite a few repros on this.

I know it’s unlikely that members here own two of the same model of the above brands at the same time, but most grateful if members who do own one of the models above could share what they think are the pros and cons of their buco j 100

For e.g. leather quality and grain, cut of the jacket , hardware preference , functionality ( internal pockets etc)

I myself am interested in so called tea core , but not sure if Eastman’s horsehide or Aeros offer the same thing .

Thanks a lot !

I went with Aero J100 via Thurston Bros and found that they do offer a variety of customization, especially on the matters raised by you, i.e. leather, cut etc. Good service as well.

 

[Graemsay]

I believe that out of what you listed, only Real McCoy's offer tea core leather for their jackets. I could be mistaken, but from what I have seen, Aero's Vicenza leather does not come in a tea core option. Hopefully someone will chime in and know for sure.

The blackened brown Vicenza is teacore. It's a black spray coat over a brown base.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

When I look at the Eastman J-100, I see a lot of similarities with the Himel Kensington. (Fold of leather on the back yoke, double stitching...)

I have the Kensington and I couldn’t be happier with it. The only down side with Eastman, no customization possible.

 

[Monitor]

hi guys and girls,

I always wanted THE original cafe racer ( owner the vanson model b and others as well), and noted there are quite a few repros on this.

I know it’s unlikely that members here own two of the same model of the above brands at the same time, but most grateful if members who do own one of the models above could share what they think are the pros and cons of their buco j 100

For e.g. leather quality and grain, cut of the jacket , hardware preference , functionality ( internal pockets etc)

I myself am interested in so called tea core , but not sure if Eastman’s horsehide or Aeros offer the same thing .

Thanks a lot !

The biggest difference between these three makers is how accurate their jacket as a replica is.

Real McCoy's J100 is advertised as a 100% accurate replica and that is, for the most part, true. They only use Shinki leather which @dudewuttheheck said more about above. They've messed with the pattern though to make the jacket fit Japanese guys better so expect a tighter jacket with smaller armholes.

Eastman also makes a completely accurate replica but of a different J100 - the J100 Real McCoy makes is the later revision of the jacket whereas Eastman, same as Himel, directly copies the earlier one. Which in my opinion is cooler. The most notable difference between the two is the leather piping around the main zipper and the sleeve zippers, and some extra stitching around the pockets.
Also, Eastman supposedly didn't alter the cut and kept their version exactly the same as the 50's original so this jacket would even fit like the original did (which wasn't too trim, by the way).
The leather Eastman uses is mid-weight and comparable to Shinki or Vicenza.

As for the Aero, majority of their jackets are inspired by which means that as the J100 replica, while still looking the part, their Board Racer is the least accurate reproduction on the market but if that doesn't mean much to you, Board Racer done in CXL HH or Steer would make it the heaviest and the toughest version out there and by far.

...except for maybe Lost Worlds J100. Also a fine jacket and while not being exactly the most elaborate repro, there's no question about it outperforming and outlasting anything else on the market.
http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Buco J100 Cafe Racer Horsehide Leather Motorcycle Jacket.htm

There's also a Diamond Dave's J100 which I place around the same category as RMC and Himel considering he uses the same leather, hardware, etc. but DD is sorta a... You sorta have to hope for the best when dealing with DD.

Personally, if I was after a J100 repro, I'd always go with Eastman. It's the nicest looking version out there, the leather is closest to the original (which was never brown painted black) and most importantly, it fits like these should.

 

[ton312]

Another thing to consider is how you will use the jacket...I would be reluctant/cautious to buy a shinki or Vicenza jacket if I lived in a place where the elements may impact its use. I'm not certain but I do believe both those hides may suffer from getting wet (if I'm wrong about that please correct me). I know from the Thedi I had, I wouldn't want it getting wet. It was more absorbent, or it certainly felt that way. But it's neither of those types of FQHH...
CXL is wax and oil stuffed leather. That has an impact on both its appearance (lots of depth of color) and its durability against the elements. Rain and snow bead right off. I personally prefer those attributes. I don't see any other hides offering the kind of durability and color depth CXL offers. It is a heavy leather but I think some of the claims about the weight and stiffness are exaggerated. Compared to a brand new comp weight Vanson, CXL feels like melted butter.

Shinki and Vicenza come in a greater variety of colors and immediately show more grain and look more like what folks tend to think of when they picture garment grade leather. I particularly like the brown shades of shinki and the seal, navy and olive shades of Vicenza.

All the makers you discussed offer a fine jacket. For me though, if you can't customize the fit...it's a very expensive and potentially frustrating risk. Regardless of the pattern, if I can't dial in the numbers it's simply not a viable option. It will prevent me from ever owning another jacket made in Japan. I tried once with an RMC railcoat. It was a costly failure.

 

[Grayland]

I bought a black (not tea core) RM Buco J-100 second hand from this forum a few weeks ago.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-real-mccoy’s-buco-j-100.92210/

I've always liked the J-100 pattern. I considered the DD version, but it seemed to have pretty baggy sleeves. The RM version runs slim - most advise to size up. I'm a 40 and bought 42. It isn't too trim; as a matter of fact, I have plenty of room everywhere - except the forearms which are quite slim. I'd prefer a bit more room in the forearms, but I think it will stretch out a bit. It looks spectacular with the slim sleeves and high armholes.

I'd put it on and step outside for a pic, but it's freaking -8 F (without the windchill).

 

[Guppy]

I know it’s unlikely that members here own two of the same model of the above brands at the same time,

I can see you're new here...

 

[Monitor]

It is a heavy leather but I think some of the claims about the weight and stiffness are exaggerated. Compared to a brand new comp weight Vanson, CXL feels like melted butter.

Utterly. Had one 3+ oz HWM that was literally the softest leather jacket I've had, including the super light ones. Even the person who bought it off me testified to this. CXL gets buttery soft very quickly and I can't imagine any Shinki or Vicenza being any more pliable.

 

[sweetfights]

I personally love Shinki due to its weight, feel, depth of color, and aging. While many here will say that it is lightweight, it is not. It is actually fairly substantial. Now, it is relatively light compared to heavier leathers such as Horween CXL, the leather that Lost Worlds uses, and Vanson's competition weight cowhide. However, those are all chrome tanned or combination tanned. Compared to most purely vegetable tanned leathers, Shink is actually relatively thick and substantial. It is known to be stiffer and more substantial than Aero's Vicenza, Thedi's horsehide, and Eastman's horsehide. This doesn't make it better than those leathers, but I personally think of it as a perfect balance. It does start out relatively stiff as well and this means that the arm creasing that develops on this leather is absolutely incredible.

The look of the leather is also by far my favorite. It starts out with a gorgeous luster that I have seen in no other jacket leather. This gives it a depth of color that I don't think any other jacket leather has. Many complain about it being too smooth, but I don't see this as a problem because the character develops as you wear it. In addition, there are many examples of shinki that actually start out with a lot of grain. Also, while I'm not crazy into teacore, I have never seen such a beautiful tea core leather as shinki.

With all this said, discussing why you love a leather is difficult. Many love CXL due to its heft and the way it breaks in, but I am sure that there are other reasons that I cannot explain because it's not my cup of tea for example. I don't think anyone can truly explain why they love a leather adequately.

Do not leave out Lost World's 3 oz HH. I had LW J100 in 3 oz Magnificent hide- the best I ever handled. Completely different from the heavy hides Stu typically uses. I was shocked by the feel, grain and substance of the 3 oz. The only reason I sold it, to a fellow lounger, is that the Aero Cafe Racer fit my body type better. And that is really what counts- the look and feel of the leather and hardware might be impressive but the fit is what really matters!!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Utterly. Had one 3+ oz HWM that was literally the softest leather jacket I've had, including the super light ones. Even the person who bought it off me testified to this. CXL gets buttery soft very quickly and I can't imagine any Shinki or Vicenza being any more pliable.

Shinki is not all that pliable. I have tried on a CXL jacket and I didn't understand what all the weight fuss was about. Sure, it was slightly heavier, but my Shinki jackets are stiffer so I don't think it's any less livable at all.

 

[ton312]

Shinki is not all that pliable. I have tried on a CXL jacket and I didn't understand what all the weight fuss was about. Sure, it was slightly heavier, but my Shinki jackets are stiffer so I don't think it's any less livable at all.

I agree. The shinki jackets I tried on at Mildblend were stiffer than the CXL jacket I was wearing and by quite a bit. Of course I couldn't wear it long enough to see how it softened up with my body temp. What about water dude, will that adversely effect Shinki? I've wondered the same about Vicenza. My jackets do get wet....rain/snow...Navy Vicenza is my favorite color and it just so happens TB has a nice looking CR available in that hide.

 

[Grayland]

Shinki is not all that pliable. I have tried on a CXL jacket and I didn't understand what all the weight fuss was about. Sure, it was slightly heavier, but my Shinki jackets are stiffer so I don't think it's any less livable at all.

I agree as well. I have 2 Shinki jackets and recently sold off a 3rd. I've seen someone describe the Shinki as "crisp" and that makes sense to me. It has a real stiffness to it and the sleeves wrinkle up really nicely because of that crispness. Just so I'm not labeled a Shinki snob - the nicest leather I've seen is the, wait for it...Victory hide from Bill Kelso. I have an A-2 in Victory hide and it is spectacular stuff. I don't wear it often as I'm not an A-2 guy really.