Real McCoy buco j 100 vs Eastman j 100 vs aero j 100 ?

[El Marro]

I don't own an Eastman J-100 but last week I acquired an ELMC horsehide G-1 that is made with the same leather they use for the J-100 (seal brown instead of black). I am very impressed with this horsehide, it had wonderful wrinkles and grain right out of the box. It is a very comfortable leather to wear, it feels substantial without being heavy or restrictive. My jacket has the same lining as their J-100 (EndZone Twill) and that is quite nice as well.

 

[Fonzie]

Eastman’s black veg-tanned leather is nicer than Vincenza, IMHO.
At least comparing the two jackets I’ve had in those leathers (Eastman Windward/Aero PHB).
Vincenza feels stiffer, Eastman more shiny and supple.


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[Grayland]

Wasn't HPA supposed to get the Eastman J-100?

 

[G'c]

Thank you all for the great responses! Now it really makes my decision very hard !! (should the time comes ...)

Seems that I am more set on RMC and Eastman .....

The biggest difference between these three makers is how accurate their jacket as a replica is.

Real McCoy's J100 is advertised as a 100% accurate replica and that is, for the most part, true. They only use Shinki leather which @dudewuttheheck said more about above. They've messed with the pattern though to make the jacket fit Japanese guys better so expect a tighter jacket with smaller armholes.

Eastman also makes a completely accurate replica but of a different J100 - the J100 Real McCoy makes is the later revision of the jacket whereas Eastman, same as Himel, directly copies the earlier one. Which in my opinion is cooler. The most notable difference between the two is the leather piping around the main zipper and the sleeve zippers, and some extra stitching around the pockets.
Also, Eastman supposedly didn't alter the cut and kept their version exactly the same as the 50's original so this jacket would even fit like the original did (which wasn't too trim, by the way).
The leather Eastman uses is mid-weight and comparable to Shinki or Vicenza.

As for the Aero, majority of their jackets are inspired by which means that as the J100 replica, while still looking the part, their Board Racer is the least accurate reproduction on the market but if that doesn't mean much to you, Board Racer done in CXL HH or Steer would make it the heaviest and the toughest version out there and by far.

...except for maybe Lost Worlds J100. Also a fine jacket and while not being exactly the most elaborate repro, there's no question about it outperforming and outlasting anything else on the market.
http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Buco J100 Cafe Racer Horsehide Leather Motorcycle Jacket.htm

There's also a Diamond Dave's J100 which I place around the same category as RMC and Himel considering he uses the same leather, hardware, etc. but DD is sorta a... You sorta have to hope for the best when dealing with DD.

Personally, if I was after a J100 repro, I'd always go with Eastman. It's the nicest looking version out there, the leather is closest to the original (which was never brown painted black) and most importantly, it fits like these should.

Thanks this is really helpful... I do like the eastman too, but when I see the RMC ...somehow I feel something unique about it (as much as it being a plain racer jacket).. I also like the tea core aspect mostly because it seems fun to see how the jacket ages ... but from your comments it seems that Eastman is preferable due to its accuracy of the original.

Another thing to consider is how you will use the jacket...I would be reluctant/cautious to buy a shinki or Vicenza jacket if I lived in a place where the elements may impact its use. I'm not certain but I do believe both those hides may suffer from getting wet (if I'm wrong about that please correct me). I know from the Thedi I had, I wouldn't want it getting wet. It was more absorbent, or it certainly felt that way. But it's neither of those types of FQHH...
CXL is wax and oil stuffed leather. That has an impact on both its appearance (lots of depth of color) and its durability against the elements. Rain and snow bead right off. I personally prefer those attributes. I don't see any other hides offering the kind of durability and color depth CXL offers. It is a heavy leather but I think some of the claims about the weight and stiffness are exaggerated. Compared to a brand new comp weight Vanson, CXL feels like melted butter.

Shinki and Vicenza come in a greater variety of colors and immediately show more grain and look more like what folks tend to think of when they picture garment grade leather. I particularly like the brown shades of shinki and the seal, navy and olive shades of Vicenza.

All the makers you discussed offer a fine jacket. For me though, if you can't customize the fit...it's a very expensive and potentially frustrating risk. Regardless of the pattern, if I can't dial in the numbers it's simply not a viable option. It will prevent me from ever owning another jacket made in Japan. I tried once with an RMC railcoat. It was a costly failure.

I am in Hong Kong... so it can get moist in spring and summer (where I won't wear this out of course during this weather)... will there be any concern for storage wise? Also, for rainy weathers, I usually just wear leather jackets as it seems to hold up well against rain usually. I won't wear my orgueil leather out in rain though.. What is your experience with shinki in terms of contact with rain? Will it be ok just to leave it dry after rain?

I bought a black (not tea core) RM Buco J-100 second hand from this forum a few weeks ago.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-real-mccoy’s-buco-j-100.92210/

I've always liked the J-100 pattern. I considered the DD version, but it seemed to have pretty baggy sleeves. The RM version runs slim - most advise to size up. I'm a 40 and bought 42. It isn't too trim; as a matter of fact, I have plenty of room everywhere - except the forearms which are quite slim. I'd prefer a bit more room in the forearms, but I think it will stretch out a bit. It looks spectacular with the slim sleeves and high armholes.

I'd put it on and step outside for a pic, but it's freaking -8 F (without the windchill).

Thanks man.. Don't worry about the pic your health is more important I do also want slimmer sleeves, as I don't have big forearms.

Do not leave out Lost World's 3 oz HH. I had LW J100 in 3 oz Magnificent hide- the best I ever handled. Completely different from the heavy hides Stu typically uses. I was shocked by the feel, grain and substance of the 3 oz. The only reason I sold it, to a fellow lounger, is that the Aero Cafe Racer fit my body type better. And that is really what counts- the look and feel of the leather and hardware might be impressive but the fit is what really matters!!

Sigh.. that means I would need to try one out in person.. which will be impossible lol .

 

[G'c]

What about Goodwear and/or Diamond Dave? They both also offer a good option for a J-100

Thanks I think Goodwear has to wait for a long time and not too familiar with Diamond Dave stuff... will have a look thanks!

 

[El Marro]

Eastman’s black veg-tanned leather is nicer than Vincenza, IMHO.
At least comparing the two jackets I’ve had in those leathers (Eastman Windward/Aero PHB).
Vincenza feels stiffer, Eastman more shiny and supple.


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Fonzie,
That was my impression as well. I had a Vincenza A-2 in my possession for about 24 hours once as a Thurston Bros. fit jacket and I remember thinking that the leather looked absolutely amazing but it had a stiffness to it that I didn't much care for. I don't know how that changes as the leather breaks in since I didn't keep that jacket.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Eastman’s black veg-tanned leather is nicer than Vincenza, IMHO.
At least comparing the two jackets I’ve had in those leathers (Eastman Windward/Aero PHB).
Vincenza feels stiffer, Eastman more shiny and supple.


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Hey Fonzie, the PHB was from one of the first (if not THE first) Vicenza batches and is/was stiffer than subsequent batches, at least for the jackets I got.

 

[Fonzie]

Hey Fonzie, the PHB was from one of the first (if not THE first) Vicenza batches and is/was stiffer than subsequent batches, at least for the jackets I got.

Thanks for the info mate, that PHB I traded with you is my one and only experience with Vincenza so far but don't get me wrong, it's an awesome leather and it's becoming my favourite jacket because of how well it fits me, but IMHO the veg tanned leather of the Eastman jackets is a little more amazing to touch and wear. That Windward of yours now is a prime example.

I have another Eastman, A-2 Slender in HH, that is equally as nice even though it is a much thinner leather.

I'd like to see the newer batches of Vincenza to compare with mine.

Uh-oh... I feel a new rabbit hole opening right in front of me... Help!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I agree. The shinki jackets I tried on at Mildblend were stiffer than the CXL jacket I was wearing and by quite a bit. Of course I couldn't wear it long enough to see how it softened up with my body temp. What about water dude, will that adversely effect Shinki? I've wondered the same about Vicenza. My jackets do get wet....rain/snow...Navy Vicenza is my favorite color and it just so happens TB has a nice looking CR available in that hide.

Living in socal means that I am not the best person to test out rain on jackets However, I have gotten my RMC a2 in some rain several times with no ill effects whatsoever.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Thanks for the info mate, that PHB I traded with you is my one and only experience with Vincenza so far but don't get me wrong, it's an awesome leather and it's becoming my favourite jacket because of how well it fits me, but IMHO the veg tanned leather of the Eastman jackets is a little more amazing to touch and wear. That Windward of yours now is a prime example.

Yeah I really like the leather on my 2 Eastmans....its strange, as they are described as 2.5oz Italian, premium grade, veg-tanned horsehide, I thought they were essentially Vicenza......

Anyway the PHB Vicenza is really close in feel to the Shinki on my Flat Head Cafe Racer and DD Buco in that they are a sort of stiff leather but nt in the same way as FQHH. Hard to explain.

 

[Fonzie]

Yeah I think I get the idea comparing the Vincenza and the FQHH. I’ve never seen a Shinki jacket but from the pics I’ve seen looks pretty similar to my Vincenza “1st Batch”. [emoji6]


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[G'c]

after receiving so many helpful comments ....still torn about which one to get eventually ... wife is going to london soon... wondering if American Classics London will have the Buco j 100 in stock... from their website they don't seem to have it. For the RMC.. I know london has a store.. but I heard prices are crazy.. if so... where could I get a reasonably priced one on the web?

Thanks again.

 

[Fonzie]

after receiving so many helpful comments ....still torn about which one to get eventually ... wife is going to london soon... wondering if American Classics London will have the Buco j 100 in stock... from their website they don't seem to have it. For the RMC.. I know london has a store.. but I heard prices are crazy.. if so... where could I get a reasonably priced one on the web?

Thanks again.

They do show up but it's rare. If you're lucky you can find EBay bargains sometimes, I once missed out for a handful of dollars on a mint/near new condition RMC J-100 in my size, it sold for less than 1/3 of the retail price. I'm still kicking myself about it.

 

[The dogs bollocks]

Utterly. Had one 3+ oz HWM that was literally the softest leather jacket I've had, including the super light ones. Even the person who bought it off me testified to this. CXL gets buttery soft very quickly and I can't imagine any Shinki or Vicenza being any more pliable.

Oh utterly...what next!


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[Blackadder]

after receiving so many helpful comments ....still torn about which one to get eventually ... wife is going to london soon... wondering if American Classics London will have the Buco j 100 in stock... from their website they don't seem to have it. For the RMC.. I know london has a store.. but I heard prices are crazy.. if so... where could I get a reasonably priced one on the web?

Thanks again.

Incredible is the official dealer of RMC products in HK.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1793183880755272&id=110450765695267
For second hand RMC, you can check the Yahoo Auction Japan.
https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...oq=&auccat=0&tab_ex=commerce&fixed=0&slider=0

 

[G'c]

Incredible is the official dealer of RMC products in HK.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1793183880755272&id=110450765695267
For second hand RMC, you can check the Yahoo Auction Japan.
https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/search...oq=&auccat=0&tab_ex=commerce&fixed=0&slider=0

Thanks a lot blackadder ... any idea how much does it cost in incredibleS if you recall ? Thanks !

 

[Monitor]

I do like the eastman too, but when I see the RMC ...somehow I feel something unique about it (as much as it being a plain racer jacket).. I also like the tea core aspect mostly because it seems fun to see how the jacket ages ... but from your comments it seems that Eastman is preferable due to its accuracy of the original.

Fact would have it that the Eastman is a little bit more unique. You've got quite a few of the regular J100's on the market while this earlier version (or maybe it's later? can't say for sure but it's definitely seldom seen) is made only by Eastman and Himel. It's just as accurate as the other, only of slightly more exotic version of the J100 which is what I personally would go for.

 

[Blackadder]

Thanks a lot blackadder ... any idea how much does it cost in incredibleS if you recall ? Thanks !

If I remember correctly it should be the Japanese Real McCoy's official list price with a conversion rate of 100yen to HKD 8 to 9. I forget if it is the official after tax or before tax price.
The shop however do not have a lot of stock, a lot of items have to be ordered.

 

[Edward]

They're all superb jackets, really - you can't go wrong with any of 'em, so I'd say it's really down to which one provides the right look/hide/variation of details that you really want.

Out of what you listed, I would choose the Real McCoy's version if it fits you well. They are the only brand that actually owns the rights to use the Buco name

I'm not sure that's strictly accurate; Aero have made Buco labelled jackets for Thurston.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

They're all superb jackets, really - you can't go wrong with any of 'em, so I'd say it's really down to which one provides the right look/hide/variation of details that you really want.



I'm not sure that's strictly accurate; Aero have made Buco labelled jackets for Thurston.

Yet, RMC actually purchased the Buco name. I doubt that means that Aero has the right to use it.

They might, but it's a weird situation.