Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[William Lin Liu]

So I've obtained 4 peacoats, one returned as product not described, two got alot in partial refund to the point they were free, and this one has moth holes(despite his guarantee of none) and missing buttons. Should I just accept all peacoats I am going to buy will have some moth damage or is there a way to obtain a vintage peacoat without any damages?

 

[Flip Vinyl]

Well, I have searched ad nauseum for end of season winter coat deals...., peacoat stylin'. And then I found this thread. After returning over a dozen different coats with Ralph Lauren, Cole Haan, Andrew Marc tags, among others, in them (coats listing for upwards of $600, surely someone is inflating the real value!), I realized waiting til end of season does not guarantee you a great, defect-free coat, just a deep discount. I just obtained two USN issued coats, one from 2003ish (made by Bowdon) and one from 1972ish (made by Pembroke) (both mint, and the kersey is stiffer, perhaps never even worn).

I have very broad shoulders, athletic build, and ended up with two that were labeled 46R but the p2p measurements were 25" which would benefit me. I'm not compelled to get alterations, though I could see taking in the waist a couple inches for that extra shaping, but not in a hurry to do so. Did I mention the kersey wool is stiff? ;o) I may just take a tennis racket to it! I bought them hoping one of them would be my dressier cold weather coat for a long, long time. Well, it doesn't take 2 seconds to tell the kersey wool is superior. Tighter weave, classier, even a notch dressier. One seems like a serious uniform, the other like a well made coat made with wool. So cool to own. Really appreciate everyone's input, especially Peacoat (kudos, sir! My wallet thanks you?). Now trying to pair noggin' toppers. I think a '10s-'30s "working cap" newsboy will work nicely.

Happy to have both!

 

[Peacoat]

So I've obtained 4 peacoats, one returned as product not described, two got alot in partial refund to the point they were free, and this one has moth holes(despite his guarantee of none) and missing buttons. Should I just accept all peacoats I am going to buy will have some moth damage or is there a way to obtain a vintage peacoat without any damages?

Interestingly, none of the peacoats I have bought online have any moth damage. I tell the seller how to check for damage and to let me know what they see. All (so far) have said they see no damage, and they were right. My only two coats with damage are the original coat give to me by my brother in law in 1972 and my 1965 coat given to me by one of my best buddies several years ago.

The moth damage to the coat given to me in 1972 is probably my fault as it stayed in a non protected closet for over 30 years. I didn't know any better. I had graduated from college and law school and joined the ranks of the suit and overcoat wearing crowd. My peacoat, which had served me so well during college and law school, had been shuffled to the back burner. I still wear it and don't worry about the holes. I am the only one who knows they are there.

See my thread on peacoat dating for instructions on checking for moth damage. I think I have added it there. If not, come back here and I will give instructions. PC

 

[Dennis Young]

Sorry if this has been covered already, but when I joined the Navy (1980), the Pea coat they issued me had metal buttons. Then, later on it seems they changed to plastic ones. I always like the metal ones though. I thought they looked sharp and were easier to button if you were wearing gloves. Great coat! J

 

[William Lin Liu]

yeah you don't really go in depth on the guide, can you give me the instructions, if this is the case, I may have to demand higher standards.

 

[Peacoat]

To check for moth damage, ask the seller to hold the coat, at an angle, to a strong light source. A daytime window is usually the best, using about a 20 to 30 degree angle. Once the seller starts the exercise, the angle at which to hold the coat should present itself. He will need to examine each panel individually, including the sleeves. With this method all damage will be seen, even damage that hasn't yet occurred!

 

[Peacoat]

Sorry if this has been covered already, but when I joined the Navy (1980), the Pea coat they issued me had metal buttons. Then, later on it seems they changed to plastic ones. I always like the metal ones though. I thought they looked sharp and were easier to button if you were wearing gloves. Great coat! J

Admiral Zumwalt was the one responsible for the changeover to pewter buttons. Coats with these buttons were issued to recruits in 1974 with Navy wide changeover on July 1, 1975 (or 1976?). There were other uniform changes for enlisted and NCOs as well. In 1984 the Navy reverted back to the classic 1 1/4" black buttons with the fouled anchors for the peacoats.

And yes, the pewter buttons were easier to button. A new peacoat could sometimes be difficult to button, even when not wearing gloves. However, the iconicity of those black buttons is hard to top.

If you haven't already, you might enjoy taking a look at this guide to the dating of US Navy peacoats. PC

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

 

[William Lin Liu]

So I got a peacoat with the navy clothing depot tag on it but I check the pockets and they weren't couduroy, is that unusual like did someone replace them or something?

 

[Spoonbelly]

So I got a peacoat with the navy clothing depot tag on it but I check the pockets and they weren't couduroy, is that unusual like did someone replace them or something?

The "Naval Clothing Depot" tag usually includes coats made from approximately the late '40s through the early '50s. The corduroy pockets are a pale, light yellow. It's possible they were changed, but it does sound odd.

 

[flatlinerz]

Hey guys

I just got my pea coat off ebay today and its in great shape, is it legit?

 

[Peacoat]

It is as legit as they come. A beautiful c.1949 peacoat. Congratulations on a good score.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hey guys

I just got my pea coat off ebay today and its in great shape, is it legit?

1949 is a beautiful year. The Kersey wool feels very thick but very soft and strong. Bought one for my wife but resold it as it didn't fit her right.

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, it is more difficult to get a good fit for the females. My wife is 5' 4" 118 lbs. She can wear a size 34 peacoat, but it is a little large on her. She says that is OK as she can layer under it. A 32 would probably fit her better, but they are difficult to find. She will just have to deal with the size 34.

 

[flatlinerz]

thanks guys peacoat is perfect condition!

 

[Dr H]

May I have some advice on the age of a pea coat please?
I've just pulled the trigger on Ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131467360070?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT) on what I believe to be a vintage USN pea coat (£25).
It's listed as black, but one of the images, which admittedly aren't great, shows a tint of midnight blue.
It's a 10-button coat (8 showing) - there is a significant space between the top two buttons under the collar and the remaining eight on the torso).
The buttons are all of the fouled anchor type.
The lining looks padded and quilted around the shoulder, putting me in mind of an morning coat or frock coat.
I think that I can just make out a throat strap in one of the images showing the collar up.
The cloth has quite a marked weave and a coarse surface.
The coat has handwarmer pockets and flapped hip pockets.
I don't yet know whether it contains a label.
Is this possibly a WW2 coat or earlier?
I have a civvy pea coat (from my favourite tailor, Willy Brown of Old Town) which has converted me to this style of garment, but I know little about the naval version. Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[Peacoat]

Hard to say based on the seller supplied photos. When you get the coat, post pictures with more detail. Perhaps there will be a tag on the coat? If so, that will make it interesting. PC.

 

[Dr H]

Thank you Ron, and for the PM.
Once I have the coat in hand I'll certainly take plenty of detail shots along with dimensions.

 

[Dr H]

Well, the jacket is now in hand (images and details to follow), and I can confirm that it is old - my guess is early 20th century based on the coarseness of the woven fabric and the quilted lining. I used to own a morning coat and waistcoat that was formerly the property of Otto Kahn (dated 1915) and this is reminiscent of that fabric.
Unfortunately, it doesn't have a label - I'll try and see whether it used to have one and the main buttons have been replaced with later fouled anchor type. This threw me before as they should be eagles and stars as outlined by Mr Peacoat, but the original thicker green/grey thread (faded from black) is present along with two Bakelite buttons (also green/grey as Bakelite ages) under the collar to fasten the curved throat latch (detachable).

 

[Peacoat]

Sounds like a most interesting find.

 

[Dr H]

The dimensions of the jacket (buttoned and laid flat, measured using a flexible tape) are:

Pit to pit 22" (making it a 42"?).
Shoulders 18.5"
Sleeve (measured around edge from top of sleeve to cuff) 24"
Sleeve (pit to cuff) 16.5"
Front length 26"
Back length 30"

The buttons are small and dished (like the profile of USN buttons on a G-1 or M-422, but much smaller) - diameter 0.5". They are original as larger diameter buttons would not fit the button holes on the throat latch.
Beautifully finished.