Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[David Minton]

Hello,

Longtime viewer of the site, which led me to recently purchase the following:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201239168092?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649

It fits like a suit (almost too much so, shoulders are a little square), has the label, the sleeve stitching, the corduroy linings...the only problem is that it feels BRAND NEW.

It's in immaculate condition, like it must've been stored in a refrigerator by itself. Aside from some wrinkling in the satin (stenciled) lining, the properly sewn on label, and one button having clearly been replaced, everything is perfect with no signs of wear that I can see. Did I just buy a replica?

Any help on the dating would be very welcome. I'm attaching the pictures from the eBay listing. Let me know if there's more I should take.

Many, many thanks and Happy New Year.

I have bought close to twenty coats over the last few years, and a few were in this or better condition (I believe some were never issued). They are very well made, and if not worn, and stored well, they look great even decades after they were made.

I bought one directly from the original owner. He said he moved to Texas after serving in the South Pacific, and only wore it about three times in basic training, the entire fifty years he owned it.

 

[illdefined]

I have bought close to twenty coats over the last few years, and a few were in this or better condition (I believe some were never issued). They are very well made, and if not worn, and stored well, they look great even decades after they were made.

I bought one directly from the original owner. He said he moved to Texas after serving in the South Pacific, and only wore it about three times in basic training, the entire fifty years he owned it.

Remarkable. I was wrong about the replaced button, it's all original it was just the way it was sewn. Must've been a similar situation to yours.

It's so nice I almost don't want to wear it and keep it preserved. I want to find another one I wouldn't feel bad about abusing. Is this how it starts?

 

[Peacoat]

It's so nice I almost don't want to wear it and keep it preserved. I want to find another one I wouldn't feel bad about abusing. Is this how it starts?

It is one way to get started! And you are now on the path.

Also, you will need to get a coat that is large enough to layer a sweater. Or if your coat is large enough for a sweater, then you will want to get a coat that is one size smaller for a trim fit without a sweater. I have a size 42 chest and have found that a size 42 peacoat gives me enough room to layer, but is just a little loose without a sweater. A size 40 peacoat is a trim fit without a sweater, and is too tight for a sweater. So, I have several, well, lots more than just several, in each size.

Good hunting.

 

[Grayland]

I've been wearing a 1961 size 40 Pea Coat the last few days. I actually forgot I had purchased it a few years ago. It has a few moth nips, but appears to be basically unworn otherwise. I have a new found appreciation for Pea Coats. It really is a sharp design and it's tough to beat the corduroy lined pockets.

 

[illdefined]

Good hunting.

Thanks Peacoat. I picked this one up as an 'everyday': http://www.ebay.com/itm/331431394171

It's a little more worn and later than my first one, I'm guessing '52 right before the label changes in '53?

I'm hooked on the size and fit of this era coat. I wouldn't wear a chunky sweater under it, a thin compressible down jacket or vest usually does the trick.

 

[Peacoat]

I would say 1952 is close enough. I note it has a DA prefix, which I believe came after the N prefix. The TAP prefix may have come after both of them. Somewhere I have the approximate years for the various prefixes, but have no idea what I have done with it. Let's just call it 1952. That will work until someone posts a rebuttal. P.C.

 

[ionauan]

dear members of Fedora lounge,

greetings from Greece and a happy new year to all of you.
I want to congratulate you about all the info that you have gathered regarding peacoat and especially the member Peacoat ,
which trully is an expert on the subject.
I own a Sterlingwear navy issued peacoat, size 46L (bought on ebay) and I am very pleased with it.
My previous peacoat was a Kersey wool, back from Vietnam era that was gave to me from my uncle, who lived in the US for a couple of years during 80's.
Although it had a lot of wear, it was an awesome piece and I realy loved it.
The problem is that I cannot find in ebay any peacoat on my size (46R or 46L) from this era or before.
Is there another trustful online site where I can look for vintage pacoats?

 

[Spoonbelly]

dear members of Fedora lounge,

greetings from Greece and a happy new year to all of you.
I want to congratulate you about all the info that you have gathered regarding peacoat and especially the member Peacoat ,
which trully is an expert on the subject.
I own a Sterlingwear navy issued peacoat, size 46L (bought on ebay) and I am very pleased with it.
My previous peacoat was a Kersey wool, back from Vietnam era that was gave to me from my uncle, who lived in the US for a couple of years during 80's.
Although it had a lot of wear, it was an awesome piece and I realy loved it.
The problem is that I cannot find in ebay any peacoat on my size (46R or 46L) from this era or before.
Is there another trustful online site where I can look for vintage pacoats?

I also take a 46R or 46L in peacoats. Finding Kersey coats in this size does take a while. I do own a few. After 4 years of searching ebay every single day, I found that was the only way to find these coats in that size. They are few and far between, but if you look long and hard enough you will eventually find some. You can also try Vintagetrends.com. Once in a while they will have a 46, but their prices are quite a bit more then ebay.

 

[ionauan]

dear Spoonbelly,

thank you for your answer.
My chest diameter is 48", that's why I bought the Sterlingwear peacoat in size 46.
I followed Peacoat's sizing guide and the peacoat suits me perfectly.
The thing is that I haven't found yet any kersey wool size 46 in ebay.
I see some 44 size that acording to measurments are 48" armpit to armpit.
Will they fit me?
Have you ever tried a 44 size?

 

[Peacoat]

I see some 44 size that acording to measurments are 48" armpit to armpit.
Will they fit me?

Armpit to armpit measurements should be expressed as the actual measurement across the chest of the peacoat to the nearest 1/8". If you ask the seller for 1/8" accuracy, you might get 1/4". In the measurement above, I think you have doubled the p2p measurement which doubles any error in the original measurement, which will have its own error. The diameter around the chest, as you have measured, is the proper way to measure your chest.

The vintage Kersey coat will fit a bit snugger than the current issue Sterlingwear you bought.

For a looser fit that allows room for a sweater underneath the coat, a size 48 in the Kersey should be about right. The p2p on a vintage 48 should be about 25.25"

For a snugger fit, you will want a size 46 (p2p of 24.25") which will give you a close fit without room for layering. Probably a peacoat in a smaller size would be too small for you.

The size 46 Sterlingwear you bought probably measures about 24.50", if it is a current issue.

Good luck in your hunt. PC

 

[Spoonbelly]

dear Spoonbelly,

thank you for your answer.
My chest diameter is 48", that's why I bought the Sterlingwear peacoat in size 46.
I followed Peacoat's sizing guide and the peacoat suits me perfectly.
The thing is that I haven't found yet any kersey wool size 46 in ebay.
I see some 44 size that acording to measurments are 48" armpit to armpit.
Will they fit me?
Have you ever tried a 44 size?

I've had one size 44. It was a WWII that had beautiful Kersey material, but was tight in the chest. Size 48 is RARE in Kersey peacoats.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Armpit to armpit measurements should be expressed as the actual measurement across the chest of the peacoat to the nearest 1/8". If you ask the seller for 1/8" accuracy, you might get 1/4". In the measurement above, I think you have doubled the p2p measurement which doubles any error in the original measurement, which will have its own error. The diameter around the chest, as you have measured, is the proper way to measure your chest.

The vintage Kersey coat will fit a bit snugger than the current issue Sterlingwear you bought.

For a looser fit that allows room for a sweater underneath the coat, a size 48 in the Kersey should be about right. The p2p on a vintage 48 should be about 25.25"

For a snugger fit, you will want a size 46 (p2p of 24.25") which will give you a close fit without room for layering. Probably a peacoat in a smaller size would be too small for you.

The size 46 Sterlingwear you bought probably measures about 24.50", if it is a current issue.

Good luck in your hunt. PC

Peacoat,
Just wanted to throw this out. I have 3 1969 coats amonst other years which I measured at close to 25 ". They are tagged at size 46 and 46L. They still fit me very well. P. S. - 1969 was a very nice Kersey year. The material is more "velvet like" and darker.

 

[Doctor Strange]

Hey Spoonbelly, you should check your Private Messages sometime.

(Sorry to interrupt the thread!)

 

[ionauan]

dear members of Fedora lounge,

thank you all for your response.
Peacoat, you are right. The 46L Sterlingwear that I own is 62 cm (24.4 inches) from armpit to armpit and I can wear a light sweater beneath it.
Sure, the 46 kersey will be tighter, but in Greece there is no need for wearing a sweater under a coat.
A long sleeve t-shirt can do the job.
The hunt continues for a 46 kersey...

 

[Peacoat]

Peacoat,
Just wanted to throw this out. I have 3 1969 coats amonst other years which I measured at close to 25 ". They are tagged at size 46 and 46L. They still fit me very well. P. S. - 1969 was a very nice Kersey year. The material is more "velvet like" and darker.

Interesting. With measurements from 3 coats, I think that would be an accurate measurement for that size. Would you say the measurements are 24.75", or even a bit larger? Please give us the exact measurement.

I know the measurements for the small coats (34 and 36) are built a bit larger. For instance the size 34, instead of measuring 18.25", as we would expect, actually measures 19".

Several years ago I had a theory that the larger size coats would also have p2p measurements that were a little larger than we would expect. I believe I was able to get measurements from one or two size 44s and maybe a size 46 (my memory is hazy). As I remember, the p2p measurements on the larger coats were as we would expect. Don't think I ever got a measurement from a 48 or a size 50. Based on that limited data, I concluded that the larger sizes were fitted the same as the sizes 38 through 42. Based on what you tell me, that conclusion may be faulty.

To test my theory, I believe I requested measurements from members in this thread. If so, and if I got responses, then the results might buried somewhere in this thread. Or, members may have sent me PMs. I will go back and check my PMs (probably deleted by now). Something in B&W will be more accurate than my memory.

EDIT NOTE: I went back and looked at my PMs. The only one I had left relating to measurements was from Triple D. He had a 1966 size 48 peacoat that measured 25.5" p2p. This measurement is consistent with the normal sized peacoats (38 through 44) and is the p2p that I would expect to see.

I am interested to see the exact p2p that Spoon has for his size 46 coats. Properly measured they should be about 24.25" or so.

 

[Peacoat]

For a number of years now, I have been advocating that buyers obtain accurate p2p measurements. I became aware of the differences in p2p measurements in coats of the same tag size after our friend Cooperson received a peacoat that was substantially larger in the p2p measurement than the tagged size would indicate. This isn't a common occurrence, but it does happen often enough so that it can be a problem, especially in overseas purchases.

The posts by Spoon and Lonauan above emphasize the differences in p2p measurements in the same size peacoat. Thus, my emphasis on p2p measurement rather than relying only on the stated tag size. The tag size is a good place to start, but accurate p2p measurements are necessary if one wants a good fit.

Spoon says his size 46 is "almost" 25" p2p, while Lonauan says his is 24.4". That is a difference of "about" 1/2". Now, 1/2" doesn't sound like much, but remember that is only the p2p, so the error will be doubled to a full inch when the coat is being worn. That could be the difference between wearing a sweater, or not. Or the difference between a trim fit and a not so trim fit, if that is what the purchaser desires.

BTW, Lonauan, welcome to the Lounge. PC.

 

[Dinerman]

 

[Peacoat]

Is either of those your coat? Probably not as the first one is a WWI coat, and I don't think you have one of those. The second is a WWII, and the buttons are a bit different from the buttons on your coat (unless you changed them out?)

You have a lot of stuff, and a lot of really good stuff, but I don't think you are quite too this level yet. This is the highest level known to man (vintage man). PC.

 

[Dinerman]

These are both mine.

 

[Dinerman]

Here's another