Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Peacoat]

The 66 is a great coat. Double stitching 3 inches from the cuff? I have the same year. good price too

Plus the tag is one of a kind. That is the only year they existed and will never be made again.

 

[Daniel Veit]

I am in need of a little help:
I am looking for a vintage peacoat in kersey wool and all, but have odd body proportions (at least measured against people in days gone by).
I am almost 6.3', chest 39.5", shoulders 17.5 to 17.75", usual sleeve lenght 26.5 " (wrist covered).
Any recomandations what size to look for?
I know that not all navy issued peacoats are created equal, but still...
My main concern are the sleeves.

 

[ton312]

I am in need of a little help:
I am looking for a vintage peacoat in kersey wool and all, but have odd body proportions (at least measured against people in days gone by).
I am almost 6.3', chest 39.5", shoulders 17.5 to 17.75", usual sleeve lenght 26.5 " (wrist covered).
Any recomandations what size to look for?
I know that not all navy issued peacoats are created equal, but still...
My main concern are the sleeves.

In both my peacoats the sleeves measure 25" but the interior cuff has a good 3" that can be let out. I would look for a size 38'-40" and ask if there is material inside the cuff to lengthen (there should be).

 

[Grayland]

I am in need of a little help:
I am looking for a vintage peacoat in kersey wool and all, but have odd body proportions (at least measured against people in days gone by).
I am almost 6.3', chest 39.5", shoulders 17.5 to 17.75", usual sleeve lenght 26.5 " (wrist covered).
Any recomandations what size to look for?
I know that not all navy issued peacoats are created equal, but still...
My main concern are the sleeves.

I would think a 38 Long would work well. I'm 5'9 with a 40-inch chest. I have two 1966 models, a size 40R and a size 38R. The 38R fits me much better. BTW - the 40 has 25.5" sleeves and the 38 has 26.25" sleeves. I'd have to imagine a Long would give you enough sleeve length.

In both my peacoats the sleeves measure 25" but the interior cuff has a good 3" that can be let out. I would look for a size 38'-40" and ask if there is material inside the cuff to lengthen (there should be).

My only concern with letting out the cuff is that there is likely to be a "line" of discoloration considering the age of a vintage coat.

 

[ton312]

I would think a 38 Long would work well. I'm 5'9 with a 40-inch chest. I have two 1966 models, a size 40R and a size 38R. The 38R fits me much better. BTW - the 40 has 25.5" sleeves and the 38 has 26.25" sleeves. I'd have to imagine a Long would give you enough sleeve length.

My only concern with letting out the cuff is that there is likely to be a "line" of discoloration considering the age of a vintage coat.

Indeed that would happen. I had an absolute stunner that I sold (dumb) and let the sleeves out. Can’t really tell from the pic but it was there.

I completely rebuilt this coat! Exterior was absolutely mint. It had seam issues so I had a tailor re-sew every single seam and lengthen the sleeves. Then I sold it. Like a dumb ass.

 

[Grayland]

I completely rebuilt this coat! Exterior was absolutely mint. It had seam issues so I had a tailor re-sew every single seam and lengthen the sleeves. Then I sold it. Like a dumb ass.

Been there, done that. I'll bet most of us here have!

The USN Pea Coat is just a great design. It's stylish yet timeless, trim yet has plenty of room. Great pockets for your hands (esp. the corduroy-lined versions), pockets on the interior (pretty rare for military coats), great collar to pop if it's cold/windy. It's always looked great and always will.

 

[hjv2]

Apparently all Melton peacoats weren't black after all. Seller says this one is from '74 and the contract number confirms it. It doesn't have pewter buttons yet but the black anchor buttons. Can't be 100% sure if it's a true midnight blue based on solely pictures but I think I can see a blue hue in the second picture's collar.

 

[Peacoat]

Interesting. Normally on black coats there is not even a hint of blue in the images.

This clearly is a 1974 coat. Could be that it was one of the last coats made in 1974 before the pewter buttons were installed. Or it could be that the black buttons were installed by its owner in 1978 when they replaced the pewter buttons .

 

[ton312]

This 10 button just landed! NICEST wool yet! Insanely heavy. A full half pound heavier than my others, not a single loose stitch, moth track or bite. As minty as they come. Almost as if it were never worn. I’m having the sleeves altered and let out by 1”. They are shorter by exactly that much compared to my other. I’ll get better pics when it comes back. There’s some real differences between the two WWII peas I have. It just amazes me that one like this even exists, considering how utterly destroyed civilian wool halfbelts from the same era tend to be.

I k ow these pics are just horrible but I’m too geeked to care and there hasn’t been any good light in Chicago for what feels like a year.

 

[Peacoat]

Excellent fit. What a fabulous old coat. You did well.

Wool rules.

 

[ton312]

Excellent fit. What a fabulous old coat. You did well.

Wool rules.

It really does. It’s surprising to me that Kersey wasn’t adopted by civi manufacturers. It’s clearly far superior in strength to any other wool. It seems to me that it easily could’ve been used for catalog wool jackets but likely the priority of uniform manufacture preempted its use in that way.

 

[Dudley]

Went to my tailor to have buttons re-sewn, as they were getting a little loose on the button up side. He specializes in vintage jackets. He recommended placing a back button on the inside to protect the fabric from ripping and increase overall durability. That requires removing part of the lining to get at the button holes. Cost $80, which I feel is well worth it. Important to do this calculus when you buy a vintage jacket. The jacket will eventually need a button restore as they were made to be used for maybe two years in the war and that $100 Ebay find just doubled in your investment

 

[ton312]

Went to my tailor to have buttons re-sewn, as they were getting a little loose on the button up side. He specializes in vintage jackets. He recommended placing a back button on the inside to protect the fabric from ripping and increase overall durability. That requires removing part of the lining to get at the button holes. Cost $80, which I feel is well worth it. Important to do this calculus when you buy a vintage jacket. The jacket will eventually need a button restore as they were made to be used for maybe two years in the war and that $100 Ebay find just doubled in your investment

Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.

 

[Dudley]

Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.

Few E-Bay auctions describe button condition. You just need to assume that a restore will be necessary at some point. 80 year old thread. Since these jackets, particularly early WWI jackets, have so many buttons, it is easy to overlook the situation.

 

[Peacoat]

Button backing is a great idea. One of mine has that done on the top two buttons. It’s also important to make sure they shank them. I re-shanked all mine. Helps with wear and tear.

Yes, shanks are important as are backing buttons.

When a button on one of my coats needs to be redone, I just sew through the lining and don't worry with taking the lining out. Newbies need to be careful to not sew through a pocket, though. And yes, I was a newbie once.

 

[ton312]

Two peas in a pod. Both are the same size, Naval clothing factory tag. Some distinct differences in fit a design though.
I think this one is older. They both bear the same tag but the collar on this one is way more generous, as are the lapels.

The Pea below has a more rigid feel to the wool, stubbier collar, more generous sleeve diameter and maybe 1” shorter in the body. It’s also more blue. I took the sleeves out 1” and this is the result (and the wear at the cuff) you can expect from doing such a thing:

I absolutely adore these old coats. They are total survivors and as far as wool goes have aged infinitely better than the civi wool halfbelts of the same era.

 

[Daniel Veit]

Great fit as always, Tony!
What size are you wearing?

I am still on the hunt for a decent size 38 with longer sleeves. Not easy *sigh*

 

[ton312]

Great fit as always, Tony!
What size are you wearing?

I am still on the hunt for a decent size 38 with longer sleeves. Not easy *sigh*

No tag in either but I assume a 40” or a 42”. I’ve found I can go as small as a 38” in the 8 button. The 10 button fits more trim, as peacoat has mentioned.

 

[Dudley]

No tag in either but I assume a 40” or a 42”. I’ve found I can go as small as a 38” in the 8 button. The 10 button fits more trim, as peacoat has mentioned. This is a 38” 8 button. Fits like a super heavy suit coat

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The later 60's and 70's jackets clearly have more peaked shoulders and are longer. A different look than the WWII's. I like having both styles. I have also seen differences in the WWII's with slightly different collars. Thank you for posting your pictures to illustrate this. I need to find a way to take hands free pictures like. you. I may post a few. Finally, I love your stye with the throat latch hanging down. I might adopt that detail

 

[ton312]

The later 60's and 70's jackets clearly have more peaked shoulders and are longer. A different look than the WWII's. I like having both styles. I have also seen differences in the WWII's with slightly different collars. Thank you for posting your pictures to illustrate this. I need to find a way to take hands free pictures like. you. I may post a few. Finally, I love your stye with the throat latch hanging down. I might adopt that detail

Love the throat latch. I’m at my best when I go full boat and wear my navy bells on the bottom.