Proper waistcoat length

[dnjan]

My apologies for asking about something that undoubtedly has already been covered, but my searching has not turned up anything yet ...

What is the proper length for a gentleman's waistcoat?
I assume that the tolerance is a bit greater than for sport coat length, but what would the ideal be?

Thanks!

 

[Dinerman]

It depends entirely on the rise of your pants and the length of your torso. It is correct if it covers the waistband.

 

[dnjan]

But is there any amount of covering the waistband that is too much?

In addition to covering the waistband, I assume that something like an inch past the top of the hip bone would be reasonable, but I'm sure there are better guidelines.

 

[Dinerman]

1-3/32" over. No more, no less.

 

[Tomasso]

I wear mine at 1-5/32 but then I"m a bit long waisted...........

 

[dnjan]

I am actually serious about this, as I was planning on sending a waistcoat that fits well at the chest and waist to have it copied in some fabric I like. But I thought I should make sure that other dimensions of the waistcoat (like the overall length) aren't "pushing it", so I don't have regrets like "I wish I had had them make it a bit longer/shorter" when I am all done.

 

[Shangas]

The length is in the name. Waistcoat. It should reach down to about your hips. If the sides of the waistcoat are below your hip-bones, it's too big.

Rise/length of trousers is immaterial. Each piece of clothing should fit according to its own merits and measurements, and not be dependent on the measurements and fit of another piece of clothing.

 

[Nick D]

Rise/length of trousers is immaterial. Each piece of clothing should fit according to its own merits and measurements, and not be dependent on the measurements and fit of another piece of clothing.

The rise of the trousers is not immaterial. Each piece of clothing must fit with the others in harmony for balance, fit, and style. If your trousers came up above the natural waist and the waistcoat to well below, the bulk would ruin the silhouette. The rise of the trousers and button stance of the waistcoat play a part with the button stance of the jacket.

 

[SteveAS]

Rise/length of trousers is immaterial. Each piece of clothing should fit according to its own merits and measurements, and not be dependent on the measurements and fit of another piece of clothing.

Really? I agree with Dinerman's first answer. These photos make his point, I think:

Incidentally, I wouldn't wear a belt with a vest, either.

 

[Shangas]

I'm used to wearing trousers with a higher rise in general, I suppose I never took that into consideration!

That said, whether or not you wear braces with your trousers would also affect the overall look. Because trousers hang/sit differently, when worn with belts vs. braces.

I stopped wearing belts because I hated how uncomfortable they were. And braces provide a smoother transition from waistcoat to trousers.

 

[Tomasso]

The rise of the trousers is not immaterial. Each piece of clothing must fit with the others in harmony for balance, fit, and style......... The rise of the trousers and button stance of the waistcoat play a part with the button stance of the jacket.

Yep, with OTR 3-pc suits the trousers rise will be cut higher and the vest will be cut longer on a Long/Tall than on a Reg.

 

[herringbonekid]

as a general rule the bottom button of the waistband should sit just on top to about an inch below the top of the trousers (depending on height of trouser rise) so that the waistband is covered.

you might see a hint of waistband if the bottom button is undone, but you shouldn't see any shirt. this is a standard 30s height:

there were some lower rise trousers around in the 20s, so you might see a hint of belt on the Buster Keaton photo:

 

[dnjan]

The big problem I've had with determining waistcoat length from pants waistband is that it is a good indicator if the waistcoat is too short, but not so effective in determining if the waistcoat is too long. For example, in most of the vintage photos (above), it is difficult to determine where the waistband actually is.
Also, I often wear the same waistcoat with a variety of different pants (with differing amounts of rise).

I was hoping for some guidelines that were not based on pants waistband. For example, where should the waistcoat end as compared to the top of the hipbone.
Perhaps some of you with waistcoats that you feel are "just right" could post information on where they end compared to the top of your hipbone. The one I am wearing right now comes to exactly the top of my hipbone. OK? Too long? Too short?
Who cares?

thanks

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

It sounds as if you are just worrying too much. If there is no shirt and waistband showing you are on the safe side. It really depends on the rise of the trousers. This is also a matter of taste and fashion. For example the late thirties look would have very high waisted trouser, even higher than your natural waist/ bellybutton. Of course this goes with a rather short waistcoat too. This is the extreme though. You have to decide if you like it.

 

[dnjan]

So far, I have been mostly getting by with Ebay waistcoats. And I basically put up with what I get, as long as the waist and chest are reasonably close.
I guess my concern is that if I am going to be spending real money on custom waistcoats, I would like to get it correct. There have been comments posted in other discussions concerning the likelihood that a tailor will most likely make things "their way" unless they are given specific instructions concerning how you want it (and even then there are sometimes problems). So I am trying to make sure my instructions are as detailed as necessary.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I see. Of course tailors need instructions. But it still depends on the trousers. How would you want them? I guess you order a full suit at once.. so you can describe the trousers first and then the waistcoat?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Is this a "bricks and mortar" tailor, or online? if the former, your best course of action is to go to him with all the trousers you're likely to wear with the waistcoat. He will take the relevant measurements.

if an online tailor, all you need is a tape measure. Wear a tie, even if you don't normally. Get someone to measure from the seam where the collar attaches to the shirt in the middle of the back of the neck down to the bottom of the waistband of the trousers. The rear length of the waistcoat should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer that that measurement. The fronts of the waistcoat will be a bit longer.

 

[dnjan]

Wish I could afford a "bricks and mortar" tailor. Had a formal waistcoat done that way once - results were fantastic but I never let my wife see that receipt.

The "1/4 to 1/2 inch longer ..." advice should work. I can pick out the lowest-waisted pants I wear and get that measurement done easy enough.

Thanks!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The problem (as always) is that the waistcoat will look a bit silly with significantly higher waisted trousers, and will impede access to your side seam/hip pockets.

 

[dnjan]

Yes ...