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Pre 1940s dress hats

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
1920's Lion Brand Hat

I got this hat about a week ago. Its in really nice shape except the reeded sweatband has come loose from the felt so I can pull it almost out of the hat. This actually isnt too bad because the sweatband is secured to the reed and is very stable, but the actually stitching to the reed tape as come loose. If I can have the reed tape restitched, It should be as good as new. I might just leave it original though. It came with a little slip inside the sweatband that says the owners name, date or birth, and date of death. The felt is pitch black, but looks lighter due to my flash. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, I love the shellac used in these early hats. A little steam got the crown perfectly shaped again, the brim flanged right up, and it will take a dry crease without any problem. Heres some pics:

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besdor

Vendor/Sponsor
Messages
1,727
Location
up north
Im very impressed by that hat. I believe it to be a hat from one of the old Langenburg hat factories that today is called Beaver Brand. I've never seen one before .
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Spectacular hat, Josh and nice history to go with it. Great find!
Im very impressed by that hat. I believe it to be a hat from one of the old Langenburg hat factories that today is called Beaver Brand. I've never seen one before .
+1. Really great.

Thanks hatophile, besdor, and Lefty!! I had originally thought that this might be an original Lion hat from the Langenberg company, but what kind of makes me rethink that is the fact that the name on the hat isnt "Lion" or "Lion Hats", it says "The Lion Brand." Also Ive seen a couple Langenberg ads and the logo is different. I'm hoping that this is an original Langenberg, but I can't prove it.

Heres 2 Lion Hat ads from 1920. The logo and name are different
1920LionHats.jpg


1920LionHatsAd2.jpg
 
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Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
The lion hat that I have has the logo from the ad, but mine doesn't have a reeded sweat so it may be an earlier version. If you'd like to verify you can always send it to me;)

Besdor, if you'd like I can come by your store to show you the one I have. After the summer I know your busy so I'll try to make it before.
 
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Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
The lion hat that I have has the logo from the ad, but mine doesn't have a reeded sweat so it may be an earlier version. If you'd like to verify you can always send it to me;)

Besdor, if you'd like I can come by your store to show you the one I have. After the summer I know your busy so I'll try to make it before.

Well, there is no set rule to the reeded vs. unreeded argument, but I would honestly guess that because yours in unreeded, its probably a bit newer than mine. Possibly from the early 30's. I know for example that Stetson first used reeds in their soft hats up until the early 30's, then changed to unreeded in the mid 30's to the early 40's at some point, then changed back to reeded. I have a Stetson from around 1916 and it has a reeded sweatband. Does your Lion hat have "v" stitching on the sweatband or "I" stitching?
 

Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
I'm not too familiar with "v" vs "i", but if you explain I'll check. My impression was that lion hats were not making hats under the brand lion hats in the 30s anymore. Mine also has the logo from the 1920 ad. Its a sweet hat with nice ribbon work.
 
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Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
I'm not too familiar with "v" vs "i", but if you explain I'll check. My impression was that lion hats were not making hats under the brand lion hats in the 30s anymore. Mine also has the logo from the 1920 ad. Its a sweet hat with nice ribbon work.

I would love to see pictures of it! Like I said, the reeded vs. unreeded is a pretty bad way to date hats because its usually unreliable because each company did their own thing. I have a good amount of unreeded hats and they are almost all from the 30's, but then I have a couple that I am pretty confident are from the 20's.

Heres an example of "V" stitching. The stitches on the sweatband look like vvvvvvvvvvvv
DSC05095.jpg


Heres an example of "I" stitching. The stitches on the sweatband look like IIIIIIIIIIIIII
DSC04313.jpg
 

Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
I'm going to be sending this hat to Gary White to put in a new sweat since its the current one is beat up and I'll ask him if he can date it.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
I'm going to be sending this hat to Gary White to put in a new sweat since its the current one is beat up and I'll ask him if he can date it.

Those pictures are very interesting. With the taped seam and unreeded sweat, its anybodys guess. When you get the sweatband replaced, just make sure that you always keep the original sweatband with the hat. Then it will always retain value, and anybody that buys it will of course know what kind of hat it is.
 

Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
Gary returns all items that are replaced when I send hats to refurb.. I aint selling this one, but if you sell yours give me a hollar.
 

HatsEnough

Banned
Messages
1,142
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
I'm going to be sending this hat to Gary White to put in a new sweat....

Arrrgh. I hate reading that.

Your hat will go from a Lion Hats sold in Patoka, ILL. to just some sort of hat that no one can tell anything about.

Man I hate it when people pull marked sweatbands out of old, old hats like that. If it was a new hat I would not care because it would have no historic value. Oh, well. It is what it is.

The only time I don't mind it as much is if there is a liner or some other markings besides the sweat that can ID the hat.
 

Iyor

One of the Regulars
Messages
200
Location
NYC
I hear ya but the sweat has a bunch of rips in it and I'd like to wear it. Gary is actually very good at keeping the hat as close to original as possible. Also being in the business as long as him he has so many blocks he can usually reblock close to the original shape I'm all for keeping original parts to be a reminder of what the hat is but at the same time who knows how many more years this hat will get used and so I look at it more like a tuneup.
 
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