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The Shoe

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,181
Location
Wakayama, Japan
Getting there. Two more.

Tirard Supra in brown, called Beaune (a placename). Size 59 with the raw edge brim at 7cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. I haven't found any information about what the "supra" stands for as a designation, but it wouldn't suprise me if it means theere is beaver content in the felt. The hat has the tight felted sturdiness of beaver, without being stiff. Lovely hand to the felt as well. Shame it isn't my size.

View attachment 497015 View attachment 497016 View attachment 497017 View attachment 497018 View attachment 497019 View attachment 497020 View attachment 497021 View attachment 497022 View attachment 497023 View attachment 497024
I was about to say “Ooh, but it is my size!”, but then I remembered the black Tirard size 60 is a more snug fit than most of my size 59 hats.
 
Messages
11,713
That's a cool find, Joe. The lettering on the sweat and liner tip point towards an early one. Dunn didn't make hats, but it's impossible to say who made this one because the label is generic. Certainly an unusual style for Dunn though.
Thank you Stefan. It is really growing on me. I thought there was a chance it might be an early one.
Joe, Super! This is a fantastic G. A. Dunn & Co. Soft Felt. Congrats!
Thanks so much Steve.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Northern California
Final one (this round :)).

Fraenkel Wien velours made for Edka Le Chapelier. Size 59 with the raw edge brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Maybe it isn't on par with Hückel's highest velour hats, but it's pretty damn close for sure. Tough to find these Fraenkel hats as well (I don't have one myself), so a good find on any day. Apart from some light staining on the liner it is in excellent condition as well. No need to further explain why it came in first.

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Nice haul!
The Tirard is super cool, but that Fraenkel takes the cake.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,862
Location
Central Texas
One beauty among many, Stefan.

If someone told me I'd rank a bowler higher than two Willoughby hats I would have questioned their common sense. But here we are. This one took me by surprise to be honest.
Clarence Epsom bowler in a size 56. Bound brim at 5cm and the crown at about 12cm. This one fits me like a glove and has some really wonderful feeling felt. There are 17 bowlers in my collection and none of them fit me as well as this one does. Couple it with nice finishing and great felt and you've got yourself a winner. Hard to say where it was made to be honest as there are no labels under the sweat.

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Messages
11,713
Nice! Was this from Goodwill? There was one with a similar sweat and liner tip and I had saved it to inquire about the age, then accidently cleared all the closed auction saves.

Glad to hear that it is an early one!
Thanks Bob. I’m not sure where Sammy picked it up from… but that’s a possibility. I’ll ask him.
 
Messages
17,514
Location
Maryland
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden,"Küssnacht" "Tell", 57cm, Wool possibly 1930s. I very much like finding old German Wool Soft Felt Hats this one. This Soft Felt could have been made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by FRS from sourced Wool stumps from the same sources. The wide 7 cm Curled Brim is mildly flanged. The Liner is extremally light weight so very delicate. This is possibly the reason the two other FRS Soft Felts are missing their Liners. Matt also has FRS "Küssnacht" "Tell" so here is his explanation of "Küssnacht" "Tell".

"The overprint on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman. In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization..."

52740203232_eb4630c601_h.jpg


52740198232_8088c66add_h.jpg


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52741167965_0d24d07242_h.jpg


52742833591_3ccfa51ea5_h.jpg


52740988319_56db209fde_h.jpg


52741220453_21cc178c30_h.jpg


Open Crown

52740750796_9e9a19a42d_h.jpg


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Back in 2019 I found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark.

31932309537_3848349048_o.jpg


Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden

 
Last edited:
Messages
18,446
Location
Nederland
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden,"Küssnacht" "Tell", 54cm, Wool possibly 1930s. I very much like finding old German Wool Soft Felt Hats this one. This Soft Felt could have been made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by FRS from sourced Wool stumps from the same sources. The wide 7 cm Curled Brim is mildly flanged. The Liner is extremally light weight so very delicate. This is possibly the reason the two other FRS Soft Felts are missing their Liners. Matt also has FRS "Küssnacht" "Tell" so here is his explanation of "Küssnacht" "Tell".

"The overprint on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman. In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization..."

52740203232_eb4630c601_h.jpg


52740198232_8088c66add_h.jpg


52741137270_dca3f4a5b6_h.jpg


52741167965_0d24d07242_h.jpg


52742833591_3ccfa51ea5_h.jpg


52740988319_56db209fde_h.jpg


52741220453_21cc178c30_h.jpg


Open Crown

52740750796_9e9a19a42d_h.jpg


52740231492_39a83dd92e_h.jpg


Back in 2019 I found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark.

31932309537_3848349048_o.jpg


Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden

[/URL]
Wonderful find, Steve. Another survivor from way back when. I really like the shape of this one with its wider brim.
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,142
Location
Germany
Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden,"Küssnacht" "Tell", 54cm, Wool possibly 1930s. I very much like finding old German Wool Soft Felt Hats this one. This Soft Felt could have been made by one of the German Hat Factories (located in what became East Germany post WWII) that produced Wool Soft and Stiff Felt hats up to WWII. It could have also been made by FRS from sourced Wool stumps from the same sources. The wide 7 cm Curled Brim is mildly flanged. The Liner is extremally light weight so very delicate. This is possibly the reason the two other FRS Soft Felts are missing their Liners. Matt also has FRS "Küssnacht" "Tell" so here is his explanation of "Küssnacht" "Tell".

"The overprint on the sweatband shows a top hat and says: "Küßnacht" and under it probably "Tell", so that I assume from a Swiss salesman. In Küssnacht, the legend of William Tell, the Swiss national hero, has its localization..."

52740203232_eb4630c601_h.jpg


52740198232_8088c66add_h.jpg


52741137270_dca3f4a5b6_h.jpg


52741167965_0d24d07242_h.jpg


52742833591_3ccfa51ea5_h.jpg


52740988319_56db209fde_h.jpg


52741220453_21cc178c30_h.jpg


Open Crown

52740750796_9e9a19a42d_h.jpg


52740231492_39a83dd92e_h.jpg


Back in 2019 I found the Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden "Tell" mark.

31932309537_3848349048_o.jpg


Deutsche Hutmacher-Zeitung (German Hat Maker News), December 15, 1936

Franz Richter & Söhne, Dresden

[/URL]
A great find, Steve: congratulations! As you say yourself: It's great to discover these old Woolies!
 
Messages
11,713
D6316FD9-946D-4102-9FC5-2A3D2D274E3F.jpeg


Pre 1946 Mallory XV - Velvet Champagne
Light Champagne velvety felt
Approx 4 1/4 crown as shaped
2 5/8 brim with 1/8 under welt
1/2 self felted ribbon
Wind trolley

Third hat of my three new hat day. This one off a tip from @BobHufford . Gotta love it when a smaller sized beat up hat, combines with a 1:30AM auction end time and a bit of insomnia to produce a $2 pre 1946 Mallory.

I knew this one was gonna need a good amount of work to clean up and Reshape. But I was really unsure how bad it was until it arrived. Knowing it was badly misshapen I told the seller to use a smaller box if it would save on shipping. He took me up on that and sent it folded up into a 6x8 box and only charged me $5. The things I couldn’t tell from the photos was how extensive the mothing was and that there was virtually no stiffener showing up in the felt whatsoever. So even though it shaped easily. It would not hold anything… pretty much collapsed onto itself just by picking it up.

I decided to see if I could revive the felt a bit with a very heavy steaming and brushing. I went through about 3 kettles full over three days… but I think the results are fantastic considering. It is still super soft… but manages to keep a reasonable shape.

The mothing however is somewhat significant. The light champagne colored felt is a velvety smooth shorter nap velour like finish. Similar to Borsalino MGL. Just the fuzzy finish kind of felt moths LOVE… however tend to chew just the soft tips of the felt and more often in a tracking pattern. Turns out a couple loved this one so much, they munched their way across a good potion of the front of the crown. Creating what we will just call… moth art. I actually have half a mind to take a pencil and contrast the tracks.

The other thing of course is the 6 3/4 size leaves it a bit snug. But I’ve been wearing it last couple days and it’s loosening up. That is its shrinking my head.

Thanks again to Bob for the heads up. Glad to take my stab at saving and reviving this one.

DF722EB8-E2D8-45D7-A5DF-8A5E40B6DE77.jpeg
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E1EDFFC7-D407-4F41-BE40-458307B31B91.jpeg


mothing tracks….

22C94F28-ABD2-4BB0-BE4E-D5D98BF838FB.jpeg
C794C60A-78A8-4B04-9DF6-9FE1A98B48DB.jpeg
40E970C9-6A3B-4322-B0AE-9AF05496AAF5.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,857
Location
Denmark
View attachment 497951

Pre 1946 Mallory XV - Velvet Champagne
Light Champagne velvety felt
Approx 4 1/4 crown as shaped
2 5/8 brim with 1/8 under welt
1/2 self felted ribbon
Wind trolley

Third hat of my three new hat day. This one off a tip from @BobHufford . Gotta love it when a smaller sized beat up hat, combines with a 1:30AM auction end time and a bit of insomnia to produce a $2 pre 1946 Mallory.

I knew this one was gonna need a good amount of work to clean up and Reshape. But I was really unsure how bad it was until it arrived. Knowing it was badly misshapen I told the seller to use a smaller box if it would save on shipping. He took me up on that and sent it folded up into a 6x8 box and only charged me $5. The things I couldn’t tell from the photos was how extensive the mothing was and that there was virtually no stiffener showing up in the felt whatsoever. So even though it shaped easily. It would not hold anything… pretty much collapsed onto itself just by picking it up.

I decided to see if I could revive the felt a bit with a very heavy steaming and brushing. I went through about 3 kettles full over three days… but I think the results are fantastic considering. It is still super soft… but manages to keep a reasonable shape.

The mothing however is somewhat significant. The light champagne colored felt is a velvety smooth shorter nap velour like finish. Similar to Borsalino MGL. Just the fuzzy finish kind of felt moths LOVE… however tend to chew just the soft tips of the felt and more often in a tracking pattern. Turns out a couple loved this one so much, they munched their way across a good potion of the front of the crown. Creating what we will just call… moth art. I actually have half a mind to take a pencil and contrast the tracks.

The other thing of course is the 6 3/4 size leaves it a bit snug. But I’ve been wearing it last couple days and it’s loosening up. That is its shrinking my head.

Thanks again to Bob for the heads up. Glad to take my stab at saving and reviving this one.

View attachment 497952 View attachment 497953 View attachment 497954 View attachment 497955 View attachment 497956 View attachment 497957

mothing tracks….

View attachment 497958 View attachment 497959 View attachment 497960
Wonderful save, Joe. The moth patina gives that Mallory its own historical telling.
 

Yamahana

One Too Many
Messages
1,050
Location
Buckeye, Arizona
View attachment 497951

Pre 1946 Mallory XV - Velvet Champagne
Light Champagne velvety felt
Approx 4 1/4 crown as shaped
2 5/8 brim with 1/8 under welt
1/2 self felted ribbon
Wind trolley

Third hat of my three new hat day. This one off a tip from @BobHufford . Gotta love it when a smaller sized beat up hat, combines with a 1:30AM auction end time and a bit of insomnia to produce a $2 pre 1946 Mallory.

I knew this one was gonna need a good amount of work to clean up and Reshape. But I was really unsure how bad it was until it arrived. Knowing it was badly misshapen I told the seller to use a smaller box if it would save on shipping. He took me up on that and sent it folded up into a 6x8 box and only charged me $5. The things I couldn’t tell from the photos was how extensive the mothing was and that there was virtually no stiffener showing up in the felt whatsoever. So even though it shaped easily. It would not hold anything… pretty much collapsed onto itself just by picking it up.

I decided to see if I could revive the felt a bit with a very heavy steaming and brushing. I went through about 3 kettles full over three days… but I think the results are fantastic considering. It is still super soft… but manages to keep a reasonable shape.

The mothing however is somewhat significant. The light champagne colored felt is a velvety smooth shorter nap velour like finish. Similar to Borsalino MGL. Just the fuzzy finish kind of felt moths LOVE… however tend to chew just the soft tips of the felt and more often in a tracking pattern. Turns out a couple loved this one so much, they munched their way across a good potion of the front of the crown. Creating what we will just call… moth art. I actually have half a mind to take a pencil and contrast the tracks.

The other thing of course is the 6 3/4 size leaves it a bit snug. But I’ve been wearing it last couple days and it’s loosening up. That is its shrinking my head.

Thanks again to Bob for the heads up. Glad to take my stab at saving and reviving this one.

View attachment 497952 View attachment 497953 View attachment 497954 View attachment 497955 View attachment 497956 View attachment 497957

mothing tracks….

View attachment 497958 View attachment 497959 View attachment 497960
It’s got just the right amount of character now.
 

Yamahana

One Too Many
Messages
1,050
Location
Buckeye, Arizona
One of my catches back in my January haul. Sunnington size 7. Way too small but couldn’t resist the cool art deco liner and color of this uncommon brand so made an offer.
Unreeded leather sweat, 2 5/8” brim and 4 1/2” crown as bashed. This is headed to Reese’s Vintage Pieces in trade towards a vintage Penneys Marathon Straw.
3082F883-7016-40FB-BCFF-2A032B2F9B3C.jpeg
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Yamahana

One Too Many
Messages
1,050
Location
Buckeye, Arizona
Another one from back in January. Bought from original owners daughter. Very sharp and lightweight felt Dobbs 7 1/8. I believe this is a 40’s roundrel for Dobbs. Like new condition, as perfect of a sweat as I’ve ever seen. 2 3/4” brim, 5” crown as bashed. Came with original box and a hat sponge still in wrapper. Also too small and headed to Reese’s Vintage Pieces. Very cool pug. Wish it fit. Thought about having Wolfbrae reblock to my size but it’s too pristine to molest.
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EBE7EB61-1667-410E-A3C7-CEFE134A7610.jpeg
 
Messages
11,713
One of my catches back in my January haul. Sunnington size 7. Way too small but couldn’t resist the cool art deco liner and color of this uncommon brand so made an offer.
Unreeded leather sweat, 2 5/8” brim and 4 1/2” crown as bashed. This is headed to Reese’s Vintage Pieces in trade towards a vintage Penneys Marathon Straw.
View attachment 498356 View attachment 498357 View attachment 498358 View attachment 498359 View attachment 498360
That is one beautiful hat!
 

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