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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Yesterday, I posted my newest find, a J. Moores and Sons bowler, possibly 1930s. I also asked what "vacuum fitting" meant. Today, wearing the hat, I found out what it means.
After having it on for less than a minute, the hat seems to "seal" itself to your head. Not in an uncomfortable way, though. It takes a bit of effort to take it off.
This makes sense when remembering that bowlers were used as a type of work hat (the original hard hat in fact) and used when riding horses. Thus, they needed to stay on under various conditions.
My surmise is this one was ordered by a horse rider. He must have been a good one. There are no dents [emoji4]
ce314d0d02f7d781b5191ae61d9f17c5.jpg
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MacLachlan Air-Vac
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ScottF

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,755
I'm on a hat roll - 3 more great hats picked up today, at two different places. This one is a hat that I've seen a zillion photos of, since I collect pre ww-i baseball photos, but I've never actually seen one. It's called 'The Campus Hat' and was a popular schoolboy hat during the 1910's - you can see the younger men wearing them virtually everywhere. The brim has fine sewing along the edge, but it serves a dual purpose: the underside of the brim is a darker piece of brown felt. You can see the lighter felt beneath it on a couple of moth bites.

I also scored a Stetson Select bowler that I will be wearing publicly!
...and a beautiful late 1940's Dobbs Gay Prince that I will probably sell. Last week I purchased a 7 1/2 Playboy off the window dress dummy. Today I spotted the Gay Prince on the same window dress dummy and bought it. I can't wait for next week's hat! Gotta be a Stratoliner, right?

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splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,142
Location
Somewhere in Time
I'm on a hat roll - 3 more great hats picked up today, at two different places. This one is a hat that I've seen a zillion photos of, since I collect pre ww-i baseball photos, but I've never actually seen one. It's called 'The Campus Hat' and was a popular schoolboy hat during the 1910's - you can see the younger men wearing them virtually everywhere. The brim has fine sewing along the edge, but it serves a dual purpose: the underside of the brim is a darker piece of brown felt. You can see the lighter felt beneath it on a couple of moth bites.

I also scored a Stetson Select bowler that I will be wearing publicly!
...and a beautiful late 1940's Dobbs Gay Prince that I will probably sell. Last week I purchased a 7 1/2 Playboy off the window dress dummy. Today I spotted the Gay Prince on the same window dress dummy and bought it. I can't wait for next week's hat! Gotta be a Stratoliner, right?

View attachment 131884 View attachment 131885 View attachment 131886 View attachment 131887 View attachment 131888
that. is. amazing.

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Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I'm on a hat roll - 3 more great hats picked up today, at two different places. This one is a hat that I've seen a zillion photos of, since I collect pre ww-i baseball photos, but I've never actually seen one. It's called 'The Campus Hat' and was a popular schoolboy hat during the 1910's - you can see the younger men wearing them virtually everywhere. The brim has fine sewing along the edge, but it serves a dual purpose: the underside of the brim is a darker piece of brown felt. You can see the lighter felt beneath it on a couple of moth bites.

I also scored a Stetson Select bowler that I will be wearing publicly!
...and a beautiful late 1940's Dobbs Gay Prince that I will probably sell. Last week I purchased a 7 1/2 Playboy off the window dress dummy. Today I spotted the Gay Prince on the same window dress dummy and bought it. I can't wait for next week's hat! Gotta be a Stratoliner, right?

View attachment 131884 View attachment 131885 View attachment 131886 View attachment 131887 View attachment 131888
I have seen images of hats like this in the old OSU Yearbooks and the campus newspaper. I'll look tomorrow and scan some for you. You have such luck...
 
Messages
12,018
Location
East of Los Angeles
I'm on a hat roll - 3 more great hats picked up today, at two different places. This one is a hat that I've seen a zillion photos of, since I collect pre ww-i baseball photos, but I've never actually seen one. It's called 'The Campus Hat' and was a popular schoolboy hat during the 1910's - you can see the younger men wearing them virtually everywhere...
And, of course...

9EkeONN.jpg


...except Keaton went through so many hats during filming that he would buy several as cheap as he could get them and modify them himself; he's reported to have creased over 1,000 hats during his lifetime.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Yesterday, I posted my newest find, a J. Moores and Sons bowler, possibly 1930s. I also asked what "vacuum fitting" meant. Today, wearing the hat, I found out what it means.
After having it on for less than a minute, the hat seems to "seal" itself to your head. Not in an uncomfortable way, though. It takes a bit of effort to take it off.
This makes sense when remembering that bowlers were used as a type of work hat (the original hard hat in fact) and used when riding horses. Thus, they needed to stay on under various conditions.
My surmise is this one was ordered by a horse rider. He must have been a good one. There are no dents [emoji4]
ce314d0d02f7d781b5191ae61d9f17c5.jpg
9e2a3d03dbdf989fa86ff2c0e42531c0.jpg


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Steve, Looks great! I don't think I had a J. Moores and Son with "Vacuum Fit" but they made fantastic Stiff Felts. Stiff Felts were feeling the pressure from Soft Felts so Hat Companies everywhere were trying to make lighter, self conforming, dent resistant Stiff Felts. My guess is "Vacuum Fit" was self conforming sweatband that J. Moores and Sons came up with. I think you could be correct on the dating but it could be earlier (maybe 1920s).
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
Steve, Looks great! I don't think I had a J. Moores and Son with "Vacuum Fit" but they made fantastic Stiff Felts. Stiff Felts were feeling the pressure from Soft Felts so Hat Companies everywhere were trying to make lighter, self conforming, dent resistant Stiff Felts. My guess is "Vacuum Fit" was self conforming sweatband that J. Moores and Sons came up with. I think you could be correct on the dating but it could be earlier (maybe 1920s).
Thanks, Steve. The sweat band definitely self-conforms. The felt is very stiff and the hat itself has some weight to it. It would make a perfect riding bowler.
Thanks too for your input about the date of it. Interesting.

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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Another summer purchase. The homburg is part of a bunch of pretty badly worn Borsalino.
It was a gamble and this is the only one in my size, the others are narrower or smaller and are in the skillful hands of Fleur hatter of Penumbra hats in Netherlands.
2zghi6g.jpg

Lobbia Borsalino Qualità Extra Extra Superiore. Size is 6, so a 59 in EU or a 7 3/8 in US
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Color is "Palladio" cinta (ribbon) Nero "Gulaela" Felt is soft and very malleable with a contrasting ribbon
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It seems new except it was the food for the moths, above all on the under side brim
w7csol.jpg

Fleur did a magnificient work on the little holes and nibbles made by moths
20rvlag.jpg

Outside the moths are more gentle
6ohcer.jpg

This "Lobbia" Borsalino or homburg or Diplomatique is the type with "wide" brim
2n0msg3.jpg

The proportions are: brim at 6 cm. ribbon is 4 cm. and the crown is 11 cm.
More to come in the next days
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Often summer is "the paradise" of felt hats, at least here in Italy. Often in this hot and sultry season throughout the peninsula there are interesting "deposits" of intriguing hats.
Today I got two hats, made about fifty years ago, never worn
Gold Star in black thick felt size 59
35b9rtw.jpg

They bear the name "Gold Star" but they are evidently two Italian hats sold in a Palermo store
2qicls0.jpg

This is an Italian product that has been made in Monza about fifty years ago, maybe in Panizza factory in the seventies.
352qf00.jpg

I proposed for the first hypothesis, but during the afternoon I made a comparision with Cervo and the felt is quite the same of the old production of the factory in Sagliano Micca - Biella. I have to work on it
35b9rtw.jpg

The hat is of thick black felt and a certain roughness, so I think there is a small part of wool. The interior is impeccably finished with a blue lining.
2dt3teg.jpg

Stamped on the sweatband the words "Lepre garantita superfine" for this and for the bow I think it was produced in Monza, these are two characteristics of that production, but I'm uncertain
2daabs1.jpg

The proportions are: brim at 6 cm, crown at 11 cm. and the ribbon is 3 cm.
The hat will be in the Americas in the next future
Daniele, Super! Also the pleated liner might be a clue to being Monza based. My Cappellificio Monzese has a pleated liner.
 

psklenar

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
Location
Southern New England
Post one of two ...

My new hat, my first custom/bespoke one has arrived! Thank you @Art Fawcett ! It's gorgeous!

Brim: 2 1/2" to 2 5/8"
Crown: 4 1/2" at the pinch and 5" at the highest points on the side
Felt: 100% Beaver
Color: Blue Smoke
Ribbon: 1 1/2" Burgandy with a cream accent

Image index ...
sm_IMG_20180820_112323.jpg - It's here! It's here!
sm_IMG_20180820_112401.jpg - Well protected.
sm_IMG_20180820_112442.jpg - Heck of a lot nicer than my modern Stetson box!
sm_IMG_20180820_112456.jpg - First sight.
sm_IMG_20180820_112505.jpg - I'm assuming this goings behind the sweatband.
sm_IMG_20180820_112519.jpg - Beautiful liner!
sm_IMG_20180820_112538.jpg - My initials. It's mine, all mine! :D
sm_IMG_20180820_112552.jpg - "Custom Crafted Hats"
 

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psklenar

One of the Regulars
Messages
128
Location
Southern New England
Post two of two ...

My new hat, my first custom/bespoke one has arrived! Thank you @Art Fawcett ! It's gorgeous!

Brim: 2 1/2" to 2 5/8" brim
Crown: 4 1/2" at the pinch and 5" at the highest points on the side
Felt: 100% Beaver
Color: Blue Smoke
Ribbon: 1 1/2" Burgandy with a cream accent

Image index ...
sm_IMG_20180820_112607.jpg - Flipped right side up.
sm_IMG_20180820_112615.jpg - Plastic off.
sm_IMG_20180820_112621.jpg - Close up of the bow detail.
sm_IMG_20180820_115839.jpg - From upper front left.
sm_IMG_20180820_115844.jpg - From upper front right.
sm_IMG_20180820_115852.jpg - From straight on (sorry for the ugly mug :) ).
sm_IMG_20180820_115856.jpg - from the left.
sm_IMG_20180820_115900.jpg - from the right.
 

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drmaxtejeda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,363
Location
Mexico City
Post two of two ...

My new hat, my first custom/bespoke one has arrived! Thank you @Art Fawcett ! It's gorgeous!

Brim: 2 1/2" to 2 5/8" brim
Crown: 4 1/2" at the pinch and 5" at the highest points on the side
Felt: 100% Beaver
Color: Blue Smoke
Ribbon: 1 1/2" Burgandy with a cream accent

Image index ...
sm_IMG_20180820_112607.jpg - Flipped right side up.
sm_IMG_20180820_112615.jpg - Plastic off.
sm_IMG_20180820_112621.jpg - Close up of the bow detail.
sm_IMG_20180820_115839.jpg - From upper front left.
sm_IMG_20180820_115844.jpg - From upper front right.
sm_IMG_20180820_115852.jpg - From straight on (sorry for the ugly mug :) ).
sm_IMG_20180820_115856.jpg - from the left.
sm_IMG_20180820_115900.jpg - from the right.
Great hat!

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
Steve, Looks great! I don't think I had a J. Moores and Son with "Vacuum Fit" but they made fantastic Stiff Felts. Stiff Felts were feeling the pressure from Soft Felts so Hat Companies everywhere were trying to make lighter, self conforming, dent resistant Stiff Felts. My guess is "Vacuum Fit" was self conforming sweatband that J. Moores and Sons came up with. I think you could be correct on the dating but it could be earlier (maybe 1920s).
Thanks again Steve for your valued input on the possible date of my new bowler.
As we all often do with our hats, I'm obsessing about the date of this one. The type of font used on the two imprints on the rather thick leather sweatband looks late art nouveau like to me. If so, this could possibly place the hat even further back than the 20s or 30s.
Thoughts anyone?
1659dccad5edf91f425b77c9ebed4f24.jpg
b49674f5927aae2fffb7c7713de5a4a7.jpg


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