Please help identify era of this Brioni Coat

[robrinay]

I found this leather coat last week in a retro -clothing shop here in Sheffield and was very surprised when I quickly checked the name of the maker on t'interweb - Sheffield colloquial for the internet. I was surprised for two reasons firstly it fitted perfectly (that hardly ever happens) and it's a great maker - assuming it's not a fake. It is made of soft chocolate brown leather with only a couple of small darker areas where i guess something was spilled on it prior to storage. Other than these small faults it is in 'new old stock' condition. If anyone out there knows what year this particular type of label was used I'd love to know. The lining does not have the usual Brioni logo but that might just mean it is an early coat. The button hole appears to be hand sewn though I am no expert

 

[Metatron]

I can't really help you with the date, though I don't think it would be older than the 1970s. Nice details and very nice colour though.

 

[robrinay]

Thanks for that but I still wonder if it is a bit older?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Thanks for that but I still wonder if it is a bit older?

Doesn't look old to me. Nice solid coat though,

 

[mjd]

I'm going to agree no later than the 70s due to the back belt and the label.

 

[Dinerman]

'70s.

 

[dhermann1]

Doesn't the chain at the neck also suggest that it's no older than 70s?

 

[robrinay]

Thank you all - 70's is good- a bargain stylish vintage coat in a brand worn by amongst others, James Bond, various film stars and at least one Mafia boss.

 

[armscye]

Brioni and their Labels

Brioni is an Italian suit company company dating back to the postwar reconstruction era. They are essentially the archetype of the Roman suit style, which tends toward strong roped shoulders, a bold chest, and a "man of power" look. The other Italian suit style is the softer Neapoliton look, championed by Kiton.

While Brioni is now a corporate raider type suit, during the mod era they were actually noted for quirky rock star styles-- Bernhard Roetzel's book "Gentleman" has a profile of the company that shows a Sixties red tailcoat with velvet lapel that looks like it belonged to Liberace.

The Brioni logo since about 1980 involves a florentine B that looks like looped thread. As an anti-counterfeiting measure, around that time they went to woven logos in their linings as well. So the jacket you have is definitely pre-1980, and probably pre 1975, since Ralph Lauren began vigorously defending the polo player logo in the mid Seventies. The 3/4 style with rounded lapel edges also suggests Sixties/Seventies, as others have noted.

Brioni has farmed out shirts, knitwear, and shoes to other Italian vendors for years, so I think it unlikely that this coat was actually made in their factory. Still, a nice piece with real retro dash!

 

[robrinay]

Thank you that's very informative.

 

[Tomasso]

Doesn't the chain at the neck also suggest that it's no older than 70s?

Actually, that's what suggests that it's not a Brioni as they have a long standing habit of branding their chains. That and the lack of branded lining would make me skeptical of its authenticity.