Please advise : Collar lapel snaps

[jeo]

@jeo
"Now you’re talking about the cut. Different discussion."
Is it? I know you can customize the front drop in some cases, but with these off the rack Japanese jackets it seems to be part of the model/pattern. And all photos I've seen (without looking for exceptions specifically) I've seen this huge front drop in each one.
Please explain what do you mean by cut vs model/pattern.

It most certainly is.

Cut and pattern is the same thing. It’s how the different panels of leather that make up the jacket are cut and sewn together. That pattern dictates the overall shape of the jacket and how it fits.

When you change the front drop you’re altering the pattern. Even just simply adding sleeve length alters that pattern. It is relatively easy to do since it doesn’t deviate from the original stencil drastically so many companies will allow length adjustments.

I said it’s a different discussion because up until then we were talking about the design.

 

[navetsea]

my brass snap did oxidize when the jacket was wet from being washed and formed green buildup around the edges which I cleaned with toothpick, perhaps silver hardware is less likely to oxidize, the other problem I ever encounter with snap, since they are usually blank without any indication of its manufacture brand pretty hard to tell their quality initially when they are new, after sometime the quality of the jump ring that function as spring under the cap became weaken after frequent operation on lesser quality snaps like on my biker wallet and belt clip so they become easy to unsnap, or sometime the cap lip deformed a bit after frequent operation so the spring ring can move around more and the snap becomes rattling

 

[Carlos840]

@navetsea Thank you for the thorough response!
Good point regarding the hidden/not hidden snaps in terms of maintenance. Can someone comment whether anyone ever had issues with the snaps and had to, for example, replacement?

And yeah, I'm not really thinking about this project/order in terms of MC vs Aviator but rather as a minimalist cross-zip. And partly picking this model because it has a lot of things different/opposite to my other current jacket (everything buttoned vs everything zipped, half belt vs one piece + kidney panel, no mobility vs shoulder gussets, etc...).

So far I'm thinking I'll go for lapel snaps only, just need to decide whether hidden or not, mainly because of the potential maintenance issue.

I have had to replace a few snaps on vintage jackets, as Navetsea says having to replace a hidden snap would be more complicated as you would have to open the lapels to reach it.

 

[TartuWolf]

@jeo
Thanks for clarifying.
I guess I don't make so much of a distinction between "design" and "cut/pattern" yet.
They seem extremely related to me. For example a large front drop fits in with both "design" and "cut/pattern" in my mind.

@navetsea @Carlos840
Yeah those are good arguments for keeping the snaps in the open rather than hiding them.

After all the responses my current preferences would be:
lapel snaps > hidden lapel snaps > no snaps > hidden both snaps > both snaps

As the original design includes lapel only snaps then that seems to be the most reasonable choice.
Thank you all for the comments and arguments and shaping my opinion on this question

 

[Canuck Panda]

I’ve had riveted snap caps broken off, like Marc’s photo. I don’t think it’s the snaps fault, just bad luck. It’s easier to fix visible snaps than invisible ones. I would almost tend to go with United Carr A2 snaps For the invisible ones. Anyone who has failed United Carr snaps?

 

[Aloysius]

Yes I have heard this opinion before and in general I agree with it. In this case I'm making no alterations to the model pattern. Just to the materials and measurements.

And yes I know this was the model involved in @Pandemic horrible experience with SB. I've read through that thread. And I'm very sorry it happened to him. I'm sure you can have a nice chuckle and throw in some "I told you so" if mine turns out to be a similar story. But since I'm specifying the measurements and limits in terms of 0.5" then I should have no issues returning it if it turns out to be horrible.

For someone who posts these threads asking for feedback and experiences, you come across as remarkably hostile when we provide them. A bit reminiscent of the German X-Files cosplayer from last year though not nearly to the same extent.

Negative experiences are not being shared as an attack on you, just as information.

 

[TartuWolf]

@Aloysius
I'm sorry if you interpreted that joke as hostility. Feel free to not respond to any of my threads if my responses make you feel uncomfortable.

 

[sarevook]

A bit reminiscent of the German X-Files cosplayer from last year though not nearly to the same extent.

Sounds like fun, do you have the link?

 

[Edward]

Sounds like fun, do you have the link?

Please let's not stir that all up again!

 

[marker2037]

my brass snap did oxidize when the jacket was wet from being washed and formed green buildup around the edges which I cleaned with toothpick, perhaps silver hardware is less likely to oxidize, the other problem I ever encounter with snap, since they are usually blank without any indication of its manufacture brand pretty hard to tell their quality initially when they are new, after sometime the quality of the jump ring that function as spring under the cap became weaken after frequent operation on lesser quality snaps like on my biker wallet and belt clip so they become easy to unsnap, or sometime the cap lip deformed a bit after frequent operation so the spring ring can move around more and the snap becomes rattling

Unless brass is submerged in water, it's going to last for a long time. The green is actually a patina (something added on) and not a rust/decomposition (something taken away). I would be less worried about the structural integrity of the alloy vs how well it was initially put together.

 

[marker2037]

Please let's not stir that all up again!

He really wanted a jacket that wasn't designed to fit.

 

[JMax]

The thing with verdigris is that it can build up under the snap and pop it out. Super easy to clean and it is not a reason to avoid snaps imo.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I can resonate with your designs as I've done exactly what you're doing twice, only in black. My first had hidden snaps because I was trying to go as minimal as possible, right down to black zippers and no pockets. I was going for more minimalist biker than aviator.

My inspiration was the schott raven.

Result was plain, not minimalist. The style beckons for more design elements, so of you're trying to capture some of that attitude, you need something.

So my second try I went with single and I love it, its perfect.

Fwiw biker jackets are becoming more minimal just as bikes are becoming less ornate, I mean is there anything more minimal than a cafe style jacket?

 

[navetsea]

Unless brass is submerged in water, it's going to last for a long time. The green is actually a patina (something added on) and not a rust/decomposition (something taken away). I would be less worried about the structural integrity of the alloy vs how well it was initially put together.

yeah that patina is harmless to the brass afterall cast statues are covered with it but I'm not sure how it would react to the leather around it when I can't wipe it off maybe chrome tan leather is more sturdy when in contact to this but I'm not sure about vegtan leather with open pore, my natural vegtan jacket is stained from rivets and permanently darken the areas, I don't know if it will damage the leather integrity in long term since I only have it for 3 years so I'm still testing it, also some time the staining is dark brown, but in some rare occasion it got green buildup type, I don't know what is the trigger, is it acid from sweat that trigger green type patina?