Plastic Hat Shapers really work!

[Blackleaf7]

I've been using them a bit and having decent luck. I make Rev War and Pirate hats, so I'm only doing a simple dome crown. I've been able to to take floppy capeline hoods form them up and stiffen them to an adequate bas for tricorns. I've also had some luck with reshaping some pre stiffened hat bodies that I got from F+M Hats (the crowns were to high)... it was a lot of work but I was able to make it work.

Cheers
Morgan Shea
Blackleaf Leather

 

[Rick Blaine]

I have this one, a custom 23 1/4" "straight sided dome" I think they call it, with the "add a brim". It is actually too bloody big for my head & has been sitting in a box for a couple of years.
They are OK for general fiddle-f@rting about, but they are far from an all purpose block and certainly no substitute for a #52 in your size.

 

[scottyrocks]

Well, they do list the circumference of the shapers. My head is 23", and thats listed as a medium. However, does that 23" mean 23" around the dome if you put a tape measure around it, or does it mean that itll make a finshed hat, sweatband and all, for a 23" head? Or would I have to get a 23 1/2" shaper to end up with a 23" finish, including a sewn in sweatband?

 

[babs]

Considering one myself...

I guess this is the thread to ressurrect.
I saw the straight sided dome shaper mentioned somewhere and wonder if anyone's used it or what they'd think of it for sprucing up some older feds of various crown heights?

http://www.hatshapers.com/Product Pages/Straight_Sided_Dome.htm

 

[H Weinstein]

Been meaning to post this for some time. I gave up searching for a wooden open-crown hat block (too rare, too expensive!)...and then stumbled across these ABS plastic Hat Shapers online. For about $40 (with shipping) I decided it was worth the risk, so I ordered their 5-3/4" high straight-sided dome shaper. I wear a size 58 (7-1/4) and the "small" (22.5" circumference) allows the hats to fit over the dome snugly, without either stretching or shrinking.



This works perfectly for steaming my hats back to a nice smooth open-crown configuration for free-hand re-bashing. The plastic is very sturdy and seems like it'll hold up well (I've used it at least a dozen times). They also offer specific shapes, if that's your preference. Each style or shape comes in several sizes (by circumference and height).

All in all, an affordable alternative to pricey and hard to find wood blocks. Has anybody else tried these?
You can see what they have at http://www.hatshapers.com/

 

[T Jones]

Hat Shapers

Thanks H Weinstein, I just checked this out. Sounds really interesting. I copied the link so I think I may give these guys a call.

 

[seed]

Been meaning to post this for some time. I gave up searching for a wooden open-crown hat block (too rare, too expensive!)...and then stumbled across these ABS plastic Hat Shapers online. For about $40 (with shipping) I decided it was worth the risk, so I ordered their 5-3/4" high straight-sided dome shaper. I wear a size 58 (7-1/4) and the "small" (22.5" circumference) allows the hats to fit over the dome snugly, without either stretching or shrinking.

View attachment 3365

This works perfectly for steaming my hats back to a nice smooth open-crown configuration for free-hand re-bashing. The plastic is very sturdy and seems like it'll hold up well (I've used it at least a dozen times). They also offer specific shapes, if that's your preference. Each style or shape comes in several sizes (by circumference and height).

All in all, an affordable alternative to pricey and hard to find wood blocks. Has anybody else tried these?
You can see what they have at http://www.hatshapers.com/

Just wondering how you came up with the apparently correct "small" 22.5" circumference. I wear the same size as you and I guess I should order the same size block...although I am looking at a "fedora" shaped one. I just was hoping that you nailed it down correctly (no doubts) to save me unnecessary problems, like getting the wrong size and then having to play package-tag with them to get it right.

 

[jlee562]

The circumferences are listed on the product page.

 

[H Weinstein]

Just wondering how you came up with the apparently correct "small" 22.5" circumference. I wear the same size as you and I guess I should order the same size block...although I am looking at a "fedora" shaped one. I just was hoping that you nailed it down correctly (no doubts) to save me unnecessary problems, like getting the wrong size and then having to play package-tag with them to get it right.

Yes, what Jlee562 said. I also took a leap of faith, to some extent. I'd given up on finding an affordable wood block the correct size.

The Hatshapers website mentions wrapping the shaper with duct tape as a way to make it a little larger, if need be. I came up with the simple idea of covering it with a knit cap to add a little to the size. So I picked up a couple of cheap knit caps at the local dollar store, and I think that would have worked. Fortunately, the plastic form itself turned out to be the right size for my purposes. I suppose "Your mileage may vary," as the disclaimer says.

Having mastered (for the most part) the art of free-hand shaping (thanks to lots of info and coaching available here at the Lounge), I figured the tall open-crown Hatshaper would be my best bet, since it would allow me to get hats into open-crown form for doing whatever I chose with them.

It's probably not as optimal as a precisely-sized wooden block. But it's worked out well a Plan B option for a reasonable price.

 

[RJR]

I have been pleased with two of them as well.Work well after getting wet.

 

[TheDane]

To me the shape has at least as high priority as the size. I would never make all my wonderful hats look like domed stovepipes. There was a reason why they were designed differently - and blocked on very different blocks. I would like to keep them close to original shape/design.

In the 20s and 30s straight sided hats were common, but from the 40's they became more rare. The blocks got more tapered and/or more round in the top. If you block a 40's or 50's tapered/rounded crown on a "straight" block (ie. #52), it'll loose it's intended design - and the new shape will not hold. The hat will sooner rather than later crawl back into it's "true" shape.

Some years ago (all too) many hats were re-blocked into an indy silhouette with a high straight crown. Not without reason this fad was often compared to the "brim-amputations" of the 60s, where a lot of good fine 20s to 50s hats were ruined in order to fit into the fashion trends.

Another issue is the shape of the hat-shaper. From the pictures it seems as if it has completely straight sides - as in parallel. Such a wooden block have I never seen! Even the #52 block has clearly tapered sides - appr. 1/4" to 1/2" from the bottom of the block to where the shoulders begin.

I would maybe try one of these hat-shapers on one of my grand kid's pirate or cowboy hats, but never on one of my dress hats. I care too much about their looks, and I would not restrain myself from selling any of my old hats at some point. Not many wants to buy (or wear) an otherwise fine old Stratoliner or OR that looks like a stovepipe. The main reason for my many hats is that they look so different. I have no plan to change that

 

[TimothyDiego]

I usually use the old-fashioned approach: one person grabs the front legs and another grabs the back legs. Then pull for all you're worth!

Oh! You said "hat shappers". I thought you said "cat shapers". Never mind.

yeah me too.

 

[John Galt]

At present, due to the flood of Langenberg blocks, vintage crown block prices are down significantly - by about 1/2 at least. They include both straight sided blocks and tapered blocks. No affiliation, just saying.

 

[TheDane]

At present, due to the flood of Langenberg blocks, vintage crown block prices are down significantly - by about 1/2 at least. They include both straight sided blocks and tapered blocks. No affiliation, just saying.

That's right, but still it's not as simple as it looks. If you take an Open Road, a Whippet and a Playboy and put them on the same block, you will end up ruining three good hats - making three "Open Whippet Boys" in one and only one more or less random shape. That sure would be a pitty, in my view. If you asked a hatter/renovator like Optimo to do the job, the hats would be blocked on three different blocks that fit the individual hats. The results will be very different

 

[H Weinstein]

To me the shape has at least as high priority as the size. I would never make all my wonderful hats look like domed stovepipes. There was a reason why they were designed differently - and blocked on very different blocks. I would like to keep them close to original shape/design.

In the 20s and 30s straight sided hats were common, but from the 40's they became more rare. The blocks got more tapered and/or more round in the top. If you block a 40's or 50's tapered/rounded crown on a "straight" block (ie. #52), it'll loose it's intended design - and the new shape will not hold. The hat will sooner rather than later crawl back into it's "true" shape.

Some years ago (all too) many hats were re-blocked into an indy silhouette with a high straight crown. Not without reason this fad was often compared to the "brim-amputations" of the 60s, where a lot of good fine 20s to 50s hats were ruined in order to fit into the fashion trends.

Another issue is the shape of the hat-shaper. From the pictures it seems as if it has completely straight sides - as in parallel. Such a wooden block have I never seen! Even the #52 block has clearly tapered sides - appr. 1/4" to 1/2" from the bottom of the block to where the shoulders begin.

I would maybe try one of these hat-shapers on one of my grand kid's pirate or cowboy hats, but never on one of my dress hats. I care too much about their looks, and I would not restrain myself from selling any of my old hats at some point. Not many wants to buy (or wear) an otherwise fine old Stratoliner or OR that looks like a stovepipe. The main reason for my many hats is that they look so different. I have no plan to change that

Oh, I'm not disputing anything you've said! I probably should have qualified my comments by saying that all but one of my hats are western, and for those I prefer starting with a straight-sided open crown before trying different blockings, or re-blockings. So for my purposes, the straight-sided dome Hatshaper does the job.

I don't doubt for a sec that for guys with a varied collection of fedoras and other dress hats, a Hatshaper may not be the ticket. But they do offer many other shapes, so for someone with just a few hats (whether dress or western) and a limited budget, Hatshapers are worth a look and may be useful.

 

[TheDane]

I probably should have qualified my comments by saying that all but one of my hats are western

Well, and I could have looked at your avatar for just one second. I immediately thought (read: 'panicked') about my dress hats ... my bad! I'm absolutely no expert on westerns, but I guess they are not that varied in crown-shape. Then the hatshaper would be a workable solution. Sorry

 

[H Weinstein]

Well, and I could have looked at your avatar for just one second. I immediately thought (read: 'panicked') about my dress hats ... my bad! I'm absolutely no expert on westerns, but I guess they are not that varied in crown-shape. Then the hatshaper would be a workable solution. Sorry

LOL! Who looks at every avatar? And I should have been more specific about my own Hatshaper application. One "size" (or style) doesn't fit all, literally or figuratively. I'm sure some western hats have a taper, though I prefer the straighter-sided look myself.

That's one of the fun things about hats -- plenty of room for variety in styles, shapes and self-expression!

 

[Jomodad]

With a little effort you can make your own blocks and flange to fit your head perfect. I have used the hat shaper forms and they do work ok. I used foam and Duram's water putty. I've seen people use wood filler too.


Are we having fun yet?

 

[Jomodad]

I also made my own hat spinner. Carved from bass wood.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[John Galt]

That's right, but still it's not as simple as it looks. If you take an Open Road, a Whippet and a Playboy and put them on the same block, you will end up ruining three good hats - making three "Open Whippet Boys" in one and only one more or less random shape. That sure would be a pitty, in my view. If you asked a hatter/renovator like Optimo to do the job, the hats would be blocked on three different blocks that fit the individual hats. The results will be very different

Agreed. I was just pointing out that if one wants to buy vintage blocks, its a pretty good market at present. Not so for brim flanges though.

I haven't done it yet but I'm betting if you look in the stetson block number thread you'll see that each of those hats had different blocks, and probably that those even varied by year. I'll post my Whippet, Strat & Playboy block numbers there when I get a chance.