Joao Encarnado
I'll Lock Up
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- 7,776
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- Portugal
That one would be perfect to fly today to the US.
There is no big enough rounding jack for me.
There is no big enough rounding jack for me.
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Photos of hatters tools
- Thread starter airforceindy
- Start date
moehawk
I'll Lock Up
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- 5,847
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- Northern California
Ok, I figured out the brass guard plate thingy. Made one, works great!
DOGMAN
One Too Many
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- Northeast Ohio
Cool.
humanshoes
One Too Many
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Glad you have it figured out moehawk. It'll definitely give you more versatility as to where you cut your brims. No mat required.
Hatter4
One of the Regulars
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- 226
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- East Petersburg, PA
just a quick note to say I am still around but have had a lot of health issues and have stopped making hats.Hope to be back at it soonhope to hear from old friends. thanks
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ChicagoWayVito
Practically Family
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LOL, nice. The rounding jack I got from JW Hats will go up to 6 inches which is within your "dream" brim size. I recently learned CNC milling, I may have to make one that can go up to 8 inches but finding the felt that large will likely be a challenge.
Joao Encarnado
I'll Lock Up
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- 7,776
- Location
- Portugal
That big??
DOGMAN
One Too Many
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- Northeast Ohio
Hatter4,get well my friend.
humanshoes
One Too Many
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Best wishes for a speedy recovery Hatter4. Your contributions are always valuable and greatly appreciated.
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- Location
- Boston area
+++! Get well, BE well, Hatter4.
And something I have only seen a few times before, but find useful, flanging springs. A blocking cord (second photo) is more readily available and often used instead.
I've used parachute cord with a little paraffin, but a real blocking cord is pre-waxed and stiffer to start, and as a result has a much tighter hold. I leave a long tail on the knot to help un-cinch it.
I've used parachute cord with a little paraffin, but a real blocking cord is pre-waxed and stiffer to start, and as a result has a much tighter hold. I leave a long tail on the knot to help un-cinch it.
Really sorry to hear that Oliver. You've always been a gentleman and a good friend to this forum and this thread.
I hope you get well soon and get back to doing what you are passionate about. I will be praying for you.
Best wishes, always!
John
It was not a very useful design, unfortunately. I have some other ideas though, and when I finally get caught up on back orders, I will have a go at them.
T Jones
I'll Lock Up
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- 6,800
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Aww man. I think I let one of those get away from me.A brass band block. These are hard to find, and I only just got it. I've always had to use a stretch block, but this is very nice to have if you are lucky & determined enough to find one.
Catching up on this thread. Following HumanShoes' post, here's a hat/coat rack I made by laminating a 4x4 post with sanded (unsealed) cedar fence boards.
The bottom is mounted on a yard umbrella stand. I used a hole saw and a bolt to do that bit. If I do this again, I'll use blocks instead of a full post - this thing is very heavy.
Now that I have a thickness planer, I would also laminate with thinner boards. The planer makes well chosen fence boards (about $2.34 each at Lowes) look very beautiful with less work than sanding. I found mine, a DeWalt, on Craigslist for $100. Here are some scraps left over from a closet I lined. Left is planed, right is the "meat side" of a planed board.
The cedar helps keep those pesky moths at bay.
The bottom is mounted on a yard umbrella stand. I used a hole saw and a bolt to do that bit. If I do this again, I'll use blocks instead of a full post - this thing is very heavy.
Now that I have a thickness planer, I would also laminate with thinner boards. The planer makes well chosen fence boards (about $2.34 each at Lowes) look very beautiful with less work than sanding. I found mine, a DeWalt, on Craigslist for $100. Here are some scraps left over from a closet I lined. Left is planed, right is the "meat side" of a planed board.
The cedar helps keep those pesky moths at bay.
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