Photos of hatters tools

[John Galt]

Thanks John. I can't imagine rubbing crude oil on a hat!

Nor dumping a quality hat in gasoline, I imagine, but terms change. Gasoline didn't have all of those additives back then, and "crude oil" may well have referred to something like vaseline, or some other less offensive oil product. I doubt they were rubbing drain oil on gentlemen's hats ;-)


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Block Maker]

I would like to see a video with someone demonstrating this method of luring. For some reason rubbing oil into a hat doesn't seem right even though some of you guys are saying it works good!!

 

[Banky]

You use very little of whatever luring agent you go with. using too much will cause problems in terms of nap and color.

 

[Brad Bowers]

You use very little of whatever luring agent you go with. using too much will cause problems in terms of nap and color.

i found this out the hard way, as the first hat I lured with coconut oil ended up with a dark oily patch. Luckily it was on a practice body. Luring really does put a beautiful sheen and luster on dark hats, but it also looks nice on light ones, too.

Brad

 

[TheDane]

Should the grease hit the fan, a tub of naphtha will most likely save the body. I have never tried, but that would definitely be my first choice of remedy. When it comes to type of grease ... "I'm a Dapper Dan man!"

 

[Block Maker]

Maybe a stupid question, but is the cocoanut oil you are talking about the same stuff listed as extra virgin in a tub from the vitamin store?

 

[John Galt]

Should the grease hit the fan, a tub of naphtha will most likely save the body. I have never tried, but that would definitely be my first choice of remedy. When it comes to type of grease ... "I'm a Dapper Dan man!"

A little dab...

 

[Hatter4]

My cocoanut oil comes in a jar.but it is the same as in a vitamin store.

 

[Block Maker]

My cocoanut oil comes in a jar.but it is the same as in a vitamin store.

Thanks Hatter!

 

[bloc]

No worries, that's what this forum is about, from my perspective. I made the same mistakes. I also cut through a reed last week by inadvertence. For a makeshift ferrule on your first build, you might try heat shrink wire sealing tubing. I know it comes in appropriate sizes and it would probably hold, just be careful not to singe the hat.

When you do buy ferrules, make sure you don't get the large brass millinery style. I have a dozen I cannot use. JW's ferrules are good, and Leko's are ok, but JW's sweats are far superior to hers, and he's got no minimum order.

Here's a comparison shot:

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

Been trying to use those brass ferrules in sweatbands myself and struggling. Thanks for the picture, good to know smaller versions are available. Will try and get hold of some.

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge. Invaluable!

 

[bloc]

Do you crimp your ferrules in the centre to stop the reed overlapping? Or are they narrow enough to prevent this?

 

[Block Maker]

Do you crimp your ferrules in the centre to stop the reed overlapping? Or are they narrow enough to prevent this?

I personally use lekos ferrules and the reed is a snug fit…I usually lightly crimp on side of the ferrel just to prevent it slipping out. I had it happen one time and not since I started doing that.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[bond]

Felt blocks . Coarse and fine( hard and soft)I use these to lift light soiling out of fur felt hats and to even out the nap as well if there's discoloration or other issues. These were accidental finds that turned out to be one of my best tools for working felt.

 

[bloc]

I personally use lekos ferrules and the reed is a snug fit…I usually lightly crimp on side of the ferrel just to prevent it slipping out. I had it happen one time and not since I started doing that.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Thanks for that : )

 

[bond]

These Steamfast steamers work great, this is my third one in as many yrs. they replace em for free so I keep using them . Perfect for steaming a hat and they couldn't be easier to use just plug in and use.

 

[Block Maker]

Felt blocks . Coarse and fine( hard and soft)I use these to lift light soiling out of fur felt hats and to even out the nap as well if there's discoloration or other issues. These were accidental finds that turned out to be one of my best tools for working felt.

They appear to be the same color…can you use them on dark and light felt?

 

[bond]

I would suggest using seperate blocks for light and dark color felts. The nice thing about using these is you can rub them across a carpet or something similar to clean off.

 

[Block Maker]

My latest hat tool, and it's a doozy, I can't wait to get it.

The artist who built this great tool wrote:

-------------8<

About a year ago, I discovered this style of sewing awl. I was intrigued by the concept, but very disappointed by the quality of commercially available awls. Why should such an elegant concept be executed so poorly? So I set out to make my own. I machined it of solid aluminum with steel for the needle bar. I've used it regularly since, sewing anything that my straight-stitch machine couldn't.

I've taken what I've learned in the year of using the first awl and applied it to the design of this one. This one has an integrated thread tensioner to keep the bobbin from unwinding, as well as to make even tensioning of stitches easier. The thread tension is adjustable for different weights of thread. The bobbin holder has been modified for speed and ease of use. It fits nicely in the hand, placing the sewing thread right at the fingertips for control. The thread exits the bobbin holder through a small replaceable steel tube to prevent wear on the aluminum body. The first awl was made to last a century. This awl is made to last three.

It uses common DBx1 (industrial) needles, and the corresponding common industrial .830" diameter bobbins. It comes with one needle of your choice, and one bobbin of Guetermann Tera 30 thread (white). See options to the right.

Great for field repairs, extremely tough materials, and special stitches. Expand your capabilities! It's made of 6061 aluminum, 316 stainless, 12L14 steel, and 360 brass. Some components will rust if left in the elements or abandoned in a humid environment. Oiling/greasing the components sporadically will keep it looking and functioning like new. Perfect addition to your space station or an advanced underwater research craft. It is meant to do lock stitch, but it can also do a single-strand chainstitch for basting.

Dimensions 5" OAL x 1.125" x .875"

----------8<

http://aerialcopper.blogspot.com

No affiliation, just a customer...

I use a speedy stitcher just about everyday and like I said before I tried to make a refined model out of wood. I am very impressed with this so much I contacted Dylan to have him make me one as well. The smaller size would be a huge plus for me!
Let me know what you think.

 

[John Galt]

Brilliant! I will let you know. It's en route.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Do you crimp your ferrules in the centre to stop the reed overlapping? Or are they narrow enough to prevent this?

The ones I have don't have room for overlapping. I pinch both sides tight.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."