Should the grease hit the fan, a tub of naphtha will most likely save the body. I have never tried, but that would definitely be my first choice of remedy. When it comes to type of grease ... "I'm a Dapper Dan man!"
No worries, that's what this forum is about, from my perspective. I made the same mistakes. I also cut through a reed last week by inadvertence. For a makeshift ferrule on your first build, you might try heat shrink wire sealing tubing. I know it comes in appropriate sizes and it would probably hold, just be careful not to singe the hat.
When you do buy ferrules, make sure you don't get the large brass millinery style. I have a dozen I cannot use. JW's ferrules are good, and Leko's are ok, but JW's sweats are far superior to hers, and he's got no minimum order.
Here's a comparison shot:
"Faint hat never won fair lady."
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather. 
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. 
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style.
They appear to be the same color…can you use them on dark and light felt?Felt blocks . Coarse and fine( hard and soft)I use these to lift light soiling out of fur felt hats and to even out the nap as well if there's discoloration or other issues. These were accidental finds that turned out to be one of my best tools for working felt.
My latest hat tool, and it's a doozy, I can't wait to get it.
The artist who built this great tool wrote:
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About a year ago, I discovered this style of sewing awl. I was intrigued by the concept, but very disappointed by the quality of commercially available awls. Why should such an elegant concept be executed so poorly? So I set out to make my own. I machined it of solid aluminum with steel for the needle bar. I've used it regularly since, sewing anything that my straight-stitch machine couldn't.
I've taken what I've learned in the year of using the first awl and applied it to the design of this one. This one has an integrated thread tensioner to keep the bobbin from unwinding, as well as to make even tensioning of stitches easier. The thread tension is adjustable for different weights of thread. The bobbin holder has been modified for speed and ease of use. It fits nicely in the hand, placing the sewing thread right at the fingertips for control. The thread exits the bobbin holder through a small replaceable steel tube to prevent wear on the aluminum body. The first awl was made to last a century. This awl is made to last three.
It uses common DBx1 (industrial) needles, and the corresponding common industrial .830" diameter bobbins. It comes with one needle of your choice, and one bobbin of Guetermann Tera 30 thread (white). See options to the right.
Great for field repairs, extremely tough materials, and special stitches. Expand your capabilities! It's made of 6061 aluminum, 316 stainless, 12L14 steel, and 360 brass. Some components will rust if left in the elements or abandoned in a humid environment. Oiling/greasing the components sporadically will keep it looking and functioning like new. Perfect addition to your space station or an advanced underwater research craft. It is meant to do lock stitch, but it can also do a single-strand chainstitch for basting.
Dimensions 5" OAL x 1.125" x .875"
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