Photos of hatters tools

[Lotsahats]

I'm surprised you didn't get a pm asking for a sale at $60! Nice finds, JG. Will you be hanging up a shingle soon?

 

[TheDane]

Guess my $60 doesn't look so bad now, huh?

Haha ... "You gotta know when to hold 'em - Know when to fold 'em - Know when to walk away - And know when to run". Very well done, John! It'll be great with a little TLC. Congratulations

 

[Hatter4]

John, congratulations! You beat me out by $.50 - I'm glad it went to someone I know - enjoy it!

 

[John Galt]

John, congratulations! You beat me out by $.50 - I'm glad it went to someone I know - enjoy it!

Sorry about that, but it really was me pushing buttons, not a sniping program. I was traveling and had an alarm set, so I stopped for lunch and watched the clock run down. It was exciting there at the end!


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

Sorry about that, but it really was me pushing buttons, not a sniping program.

Way to go, John! True gentlemen fight face to face - not by proxies. And the exitement of the duel is actually half the joy

 

[John Galt]

I'm surprised you didn't get a pm asking for a sale at $60! Nice finds, JG. Will you be hanging up a shingle soon?

Yes. I have been gathering some necessary items & contacts (suppliers of quality materials) and learning skills. I have 37 vintage flanges in various widths & sizes, most from a second generation hatter who opened a shop in Kingsport Tenn. in 1951, and at least 11 crown blocks, most from Langenberg. I also have some vintage ribbon and hat irons, and the recent purchases.

I have been building hats for myself and friends for a while. I am also making a ROTLA fedora for a fellow Lounger, and a western for my nephew. I have learned a lot, and plan to go spend a weekend in Utah with JW to learn some of the finer skills/tricks, then get even more serious about this. I also have a few more tools to make, which I enjoy.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Hatter4]

does anyone have or use the long handle brim irons? I think they were used to get under the curl on a derby or top hat.

 

[bloc]

Hello, I'm new and very excited to be here. As a milliner hoping to evolve into a hatter I have MANY questions. To begin....
Is a flange what I (a Welsh milliner) might call a brim block?

 

[John Galt]

Hello, I'm new and very excited to be here. As a milliner hoping to evolve into a hatter I have MANY questions. To begin....
Is a flange what I (a Welsh milliner) might call a brim block?

Yes indeed. Guess it's time for photos of a flange & flange stand.

These were originally purchased in 1951.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

I have not cleaned the brim flange yet, having never used this one.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[bloc]

Yes indeed. Guess it's time for photos of a flange & flange stand.

These were originally purchased in 1951.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

Thanks for that. And presumably you block the crown first, turn it upside down through the hole and pull the felt over the flange. Does it have a string groove or would you use pins?

 

[TheDane]

It's got a groove all around - close to the bottom. You put the hat crown down in the flange and place a stretcher or brass band block in the opening to secure/lock the hat in the flange. Then you lay a piece of flanging cloth (heavy flannel) over the brim and secure it with a string around the flange. After wetting the cloth you can use a hot iron to set the brim shape - or you can use a hot sandbag with about 50-60 pounds of electrically heated sand on top of the flange. The sandbag should be left ontop of the flange for about 15 minutes

 

[bloc]

It's got a groove all around - close to the bottom. You put the hat crown down in the flange and place a stretcher or brass band block in the opening to secure/lock the hat in the flange. Then you lay a piece of flanging cloth (heavy flannel) over the brim and secure it with a string around the flange. After wetting the cloth you can use a hot iron to set the brim shape - or you can use a hot sandbag with about 50-60 pounds of electrically heated sand on top of the flange. The sandbag should be left ontop of the flange for about 15 minutes

Thank you TheDane. Starting to get the picture. I am very fortunate to have a local chap making blocks for me so all information is very useful

 

[John Galt]

Then you lay a piece of flanging cloth (heavy flannel) over the brim and secure it ..,

This was a twofer, because I have been meaning to ask about this. Can you elaborate a little on the cloth?

Also, can anyone explain a hatter's knot? I know it is a "slip knot," generally, but my research is coming up empty on the exact nature of the knot...

Although it is not a "tool" as such, this seems the most appropriate thread.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

My hatter's rule arrived. It's a neat little gadget.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[ManofKent]

That is neat John

 

[Hatter4]

The cloth is made out of cotton muslin or cotton duck cloth. You tighten it as taut as you can and you tie your string into the grove. The string is called a "commander" and it is the same string your use on the crown with a runner down. As for the knot, I've always just used a slip knot. Hope this helps.

 

[Hatter4]

I like your hatter's rule, good luck with it

 

[TheDane]

This was a twofer, because I have been meaning to ask about this

Well, not so much to say about the cloth. As heavy a white/natural canton flannel you can find. I just tried to seach The Bay and found this. I don't know how thick it is, but you could try and ask the seller about thickness. I got me some via an old theatre connection, so I don't have any advice concerning dealers.

The hatter's/milliner's knot:

 

[TheDane]

The cloth is made out of cotton muslin or cotton duck cloth.

Not quite. The fabric that the old hat supply companies sold as "flanging cloth" was canton flannel. The sandbagger is made from duck cloth - and is covered with the same canton flannel.

If the sandbagger is heated with electricity, there's placed a piece of heavy glassfiber cloth between the sand and the duck cloth. Ontop of the glassfiber cloth is sewn a spiral of heating/resistance wire, and the wires is channeled through the sand to the top of the metal hood.

John: An old trick is to dip the string in some water before you lay it over the block or flange. Then the knot tightens even better. Of course this only works if the string is made out of cotton