Photos of hatters tools

[Art Fawcett]

Actually Josh, the felt goes above the brass and below the blade so that the blade rides on the brass after you press it through the felt

 

[Joshbru3]

Actually Josh, the felt goes above the brass and below the blade so that the blade rides on the brass after you press it through the felt

Thank you so much, Art! I really appreciate it. That makes perfect sense. I can't wait to use the rounding jack.

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

Just got a new 7 1/4 flange! It was an ebay purchase for $55!! However, I'm a little concerned, because the seller had refinished it with a furniture stain. :eeek:

The condition of the flange itself is terrific. But it has an obvious odor and I'm afraid the stain will rub off on the hat. Help! Is it safe to use this or should I do something like sand it down a little? Ugh! Here are some pics...




...with an un-treated 7 1/4 (52) block that I already had...



...closeup of the stain...



...with a hat...

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

Bump. Hoping to get some recommendations and advice about this brim mold. How could I get the stain odors out?

 

[DarrelMorris]

This is a great thread. It has been very educational.

 

[John Galt]

Bump. Hoping to get some recommendations and advice about this brim mold. How could I get the stain odors out?

Bump, and my answer, if you haven't found one yet. The stain should not hurt anything as long as it is finished, which unfortunately does not seem to be the case. I would let the flange dry completely in sunlight if it still has wet oil stain still on it, and then coat it with a good quality polyurethane. Spray poly should work fine (shake the can often and clean the sprayer frequently to avoid drops/splatters), but you can also brush it on with a fine paintbrush (natural fiber), or a sheep's wool "brush." There will still be a smell of poly for a while, but when it has dried completely, the stain should be sealed in, and both the poly and stain smells will be gone.

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

Thanks for the re-bump, JG. I actually did let it dry out and also applied some heat and steam to it on separate occasions. After a few treatments I could tell the odor was going away. It's fine now; been using it on a few of my hats with no problems. Can't wait to buy something with a tighter roll, though. Just missed out on a 2 1/4" on etsy. Crumbs. There will be more...

 

[John Galt]

Glad that worked out for you. I made a puller downer last weekend from an old oak desk drawer, and will be trying a foot tolliker this weekend. Here is the puller-downer. The shape was traced from a 7 1/8 brim flange, as I have no vintage model. I will shape the Tolliker in clay based on pics of vintage ones and to ensure hand friendliness, then use that as a model. Next after that will be a runner-downer.

Here is the puller-downer, a pretty easy project, created with a jigsaw and a palm sander, them hand sanded, and finished with polyurethane. I will make a darker one this weekend.

 

[John Galt]

Just found this hatter's iron (I am very confident) at a local antique store for a great price!

 

[John Galt]

And these two, which I am less sure of, but have seen on hatter's benches, and will serve the purpose.

 

[alanfgag]

Very nice!... and rare to find with the original quarters.

 

[John Galt]

Very nice!... and rare to find with the original quarters.

;-)

 

[John Galt]

I just built & tested a _cardboard_ mallaird style halo conformateur tonight as a prototype. The next model will be plexiglass. This one has 20 legs, and allowed me to trace my head shape accurately for a custom band block (yet to be built). The cut-out I made fits my best fitting hat & matches the shape of the paper cut out that the ladies at Paul's in SF took of my head with an authentic top hat style conformateur.

Here's a pic:



This isn't really that hard of a project for do-it-yourself types. Actually, it is probably easier to do in wood or plexiglass, just more time consuming & expensive.

 

[majormoore]

Keep up the good work, when you get one made in light weight wood with about 24 fingers on it, make the fingers a little taller, cut a grove in the fingers to allow the elastic band to pull in and out to a head , buy doing a better grove it will not let the band pop off . I would buy one down the road.

Like what your trying to make

Major Moore
Buckaroo Hatters

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

I imagine an ideal groove would be angled in to aid in a smoother pull.

 

[Alive'n'Amplified]

JG, I tried to reply to your PM, but your box is full. Let me know when it is ready to receive more PM's.

 

[John Galt]

Keep up the good work, when you get one made in light weight wood with about 24 fingers on it, make the fingers a little taller, cut a grove in the fingers to allow the elastic band to pull in and out to a head , buy doing a better grove it will not let the band pop off . I would buy one down the road.

Like what your trying to make

Major Moore
Buckaroo Hatters

Thanks! I very much appreciate your feedback Major. It means a lot. I had planned to do the next in plexiglass, but may try cedar based on your comments. I will implement your suggestions, and PM you some photos. Maybe we could trade tools, and you could give me more feedback.

 

[John Galt]

You can't see from this photo, but there is an elastic band held by loops of thin cardboard on the end of each foot, at the inside oval of the halo when the legs are released. The next version will have a groove as suggested (and incorporate the Major's other suggestions), and maybe a keeper assembly of some sort, as well as handles so the wearer can assist the hatter by holding the device while the legs are engaged.

 

[John Galt]

Here's another photo:



I learned a lot making this, and it is functional, although with a limited lifespan. I can't wait to improve the design. I appreciate the feedback. Love this forum, and this thread.

I have some 1930's - 1940's (or earlier) hat blocks, flange stands, etc. coming. I will post photos when they arrive, and will probably be making some new tools based on them. My "to do" list includes several tollikers a (foot, heart, & duckbill) as well as runner-downers and spinners. I never throw any wood away, and have some quality hickory and vintage oak to work with. Will post pics. If any hatters among us want me to reproduce one of these smaller items, I will do so for free in exchange for the use of the vintage pattern. Also, I'd love to fix a broken conformateur or formillion, same deal.

My brother is a welder & metal shop worker, and I'm trying to get him into making some brim/crown irons, but he's a little resistant. Does anyone have photos of such tools?

 

[TheDane]

My brother is a welder & metal shop worker, and I'm trying to get him into making some brim/crown irons, but he's a little resistant. Does anyone have photos of such tools?

Actual crown irons are rather complex machines to make. You can use an ordinary iron with or without steam

If you plan to become a hatter, you will need a (substantial) number of conformators, but if you just want to make a hat 'here and there', you can use this method instead. I have planned to write it for some time, but you gave me the reason to finaly get it done ... thanks