Photos of hatters tools

[John Galt]

If you plan to become a hatter, you will need a (substantial) number of conformators, but if you just want to make a hat 'here and there', you can use this method instead. I have planned to write it for some time, but you gave me the reason to finaly get it done ... thanks

Thank you! I may try this method sometime. It sounds fascinating. Right now, I'm still working hard on my skills & the necessary tools. The conformateur will become a reality in due course - I'll make the next generation out of lightweight wood as the Major suggested, and see what you fellows think of it.

 

[John Galt]

Bump, with a hatter's iron I received today as part of a bulk purchase of blocks & flanges.

 

[John Galt]

Or is this actually a Tolliker?

 

[TheDane]

It's called a flatt brim iron tolliker. It is formed so it won't scorch the ribbon

 

[John Galt]

It's called a flatt brim iron tolliker. It is formed so it won't scorch the ribbon

I had wondered about that scalloping, and thought that it might be for something like that. So this is a renovating tool, apparently?

 

[John Galt]

JG, I tried to reply to your PM, but your box is full. Let me know when it is ready to receive more PM's.

Ready. I am working on a flange stand this weekend. Got an old one in a box of blocks, etc., and am using it for a model.

 

[TheDane]

So this is a renovating tool, apparently?

Not only. It was also used when conforming stiff hats, that takes more heat to be worked

 

[John Galt]

Not only. It was also used when conforming stiff hats, that takes more heat to be worked

It worked great as a foot Tolliker & brim iron on this hat, an old Fletchet with a rotten sweatband that I had turned into a crushable foldable travel hat a while back, but was never really satisfied with. It was one of my first projects, and I didn't have the tools to block it or form a crisp angle where the brim met the crown. As a result, it always looked sloppy, had a bad taper problem, and was relegated to a work hat. It was also badly faded and only looked good with jeans. With some blocking, ironing, pouncing & shaping, it is really coming along. I wish I'd taken before pics.

 

[John Galt]

The hatband is a goody hair band, and it stretches & holds it tight when it is rolled & folded panama-style. When I arrive at my destination I steam it in the hotel shower & reshape.

 

[Chepstow]

Very nice John!A good Idea. Do you work on a brim curling tool too? I am looking for a tool to make a homburg curl!

 

[TheDane]

Well done, John! Then we just need a small container with instant steam ... "Just add water and stir". I'll be at the drawing-board, if you need me

 

[John Galt]

Very nice John!A good Idea. Do you work on a brim curling tool too? I am looking for a tool to make a homburg curl!

Thanks. Haven't got a curling shackle yet. The only ones I've found for sale other than Mark DeCou's wooden ones are JW of JW Hats' three real steel (?) curling shackles for $300. Mark's seem quite serviceable, but I want a metal one.

 

[John Galt]

Well done, John! Then we just need a small container with instant steam ... "Just add water and stir". I'll be at the drawing-board, if you need me

I bought a vintage travel steamer at an antique store for $2.00. It makes steam in bursts every 2 secs and has a press for pants, but is a little unwieldy for hats. That's all I've got ;-)

 

[Chepstow]

John, thanks, Ok, thats a heavy price for a curling shackle but metal it's indeed of higher quality!

 

[John Galt]

I bought a vintage travel steamer at an antique store for $2.00. It makes steam in bursts every 2 secs and has a press for pants, but is a little unwieldy for hats. That's all I've got ;-)

 

[John Galt]

John, thanks, Ok, thats a heavy price for a curling shackle but metal it's indeed of higher quality!

These are quite hard to find, and vintage ones fetch a very high price at auction. Actually, so do hatter's brim irons, though my experience shows they are easier to find if you go looking. I wish I was a machinist, but eventually may try my hand at some wooden shackles like Mr. DeCou had done. Most of Mark's projects appear to require fairly basic woodworking skills, with the obvious exception of his rounding jack & shackles. The shackles though, should be relatively easy to make with the right router bits & a table. The rounding jack is machined and a very nice piece of work, but quite expensive.

 

[Chepstow]

You're right, John. If you try to make a shackle of wood let me know. I am very interested to See it!



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[John Galt]

Back to topic (sorry for rambling afield), here is today's mail, a hat iron of 80 Troy ounces, and a spinner. Great prices on these unless you count the time I spent looking ;-)

The iron has a rounded & textured bottom. The spinner looks to be a milliner's tool, and of more recent vintage (the shape is slightly different than vintage spinners I've seen photos of), but I'll drill a larger hole with a drill press and put a proper hardwood dowel in that fits my vintage blocks.

 

[John Galt]

"here is today's mail, a hat iron of 80 Troy ounces"

It appears that "Troy" is actually a reference to Troy, NY, where the manufacturer was located.

 

[Chepstow]

Very nice John!!!