Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Photos of hatters tools

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
really, I was simply asking, politely, a favor. Lots of flack for simple courtesy.

Will never mention again. Thank you.
I apologize for my abruptness as well.
Maybe I've become jaded by too much time on the internet, but there are people who for some reason get their jollies inserting themselves into forums just to sow seeds of strife.
I'm probably too quick to suspect people, and apologize.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
I've been much less prolific posting in hat wearing and new hat (shhh ... I do have a couple) threads, but it isn't because my interest (infatuation) has waned.
Hatmaking and hatmaking tools has just been my preoccupation. Two reblock, resize, rebuilds in sizes other than my own called for expanded tools.
Pictured are my first two self made flanges. The third shot includes the vintage ones I used for reference. I also have two prototype rounding jacks almost ready for prime time, as well as a couple of tollikers in the works.
My shop has a spinner, and I also have a cabinet partly converted to a box steamer.
The vintage flanges are; a Borsa 7 1/4 by 2 3/4 and a Hatters Supply House Chicago, #85, 7 1/8 by 2 1/2. My late 40s or early 50s Marathon, even thought it is extremely soft, still retains an amazing amount of flange. It drops onto the Borsa like hand in glove. I have a Pilgrim OR clone, probably early 60s, that is still pretty crisp. It fits the HSH Chicago the same way.
I adjusted those dimensions for my 7 5/8 by 2 1/2 (which I need to correct the woodburned numbers on), and the 6 5/8 by 2 3/8, hopefully giving me very similar brims, a little higher aft than fore with a nice snap.
The larger one is for a reworked early 50s 3X OR, now 7 3/8. The smaller one for a reworked Bradmore, very soft velvet felt, but damaged, 6 1/2, for my 5 year old grandson.
Both will be bound edge and skinny ribbon with a teardrop or diamond crease, like smaller brim Strats.

61b2b802d19c16ef97c6c12660b39c11.jpg
c46946f810e41de524de4567d75bb5fe.jpg
88158bd094e8499a43a2d38666255025.jpg
 
Last edited:

abe ny

Familiar Face
Messages
87
I've been much less prolific posting in hat-wearing and new hat (shhh ... I do have a couple) threads, but it isn't because my interest (infatuation) has waned.
Hatmaking and hatmaking tools have just been my preoccupation. Two reblock, resize, rebuilds in sizes other than my own called for expanded tools.
Pictured are my first two self-made flanges. The third shot includes the vintage ones I used for reference. I also have two prototype rounding jacks almost ready for prime time, as well as a couple of tollikers in the works.
My shop has a spinner, and I also have a cabinet partly converted to a box steamer.
The vintage flanges are; a Borsa 7 1/4 by 2 3/4 and a Hatters Supply House Chicago, #85, 7 1/8 by 2 1/2. My late 40s or early 50s Marathon, even though it is extremely soft, still retains an amazing amount of flange. It drops onto the Borsa like hand in glove. I have a Pilgrim OR clone, the probably early 60s, that is still pretty crisp. It fits the HSH Chicago the same way.
I adjusted those dimensions for my 7 5/8 by 2 1/2 (which I need to correct the wood burned numbers on), and the 6 5/8 by 2 3/8, hopefully giving me very similar brims, a little higher aft than fore with a nice snap.
The larger one is for a reworked early 50s 3X OR, now 7 3/8. The smaller one for a reworked Bradmore, very soft velvet felt, but damaged, 6 1/2, for my 5-year-old grandson.
Both will be bound edge and skinny ribbon with a teardrop or diamond crease, like smaller brim Strats.



is this for sale?

61b2b802d19c16ef97c6c12660b39c11.jpg
c46946f810e41de524de4567d75bb5fe.jpg
88158bd094e8499a43a2d38666255025.jpg
 

abe ny

Familiar Face
Messages
87
The crown iron came from a shut down hatter I think. He had a machinist spiff it up and install a power system that is modern and controllable. I only saw it work without a hat in it, but it is really cool. In it's day, it was belt driven from above. I'm sure you could call him and he would be more than happy to talk about it. He is a great guy and loves to talk hats!

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/attachments/76269/
This press works with steam to press and shape hat brims and crowns (I think). All this stuff is magic to me. All I know is that he produces the most wonderful custom hats. His efficiency is going to be greatly enhanced by these additions. When we were talking the issue of "hand made hats" came up, he shared that his hats are still "hand made", just like the hat companies of the golden age with these vintage machines.
how does those this work?
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
The elusive electric Maillard Straw Hat Brim Press now has a new home in the Phoenix Hat Company workshop. I believe these were designed just to flatten brims on boater/skimmer type straw hats, but, with the use of pressing cloths to eliminate segment marks, I don't plan to limit it's use to straws. It's built like a tank, weighs in at nearly 40 pounds, and was clearly made to give many lifetimes of service. It's likely 100+ years old so I'd say it's lived up to it's end of the bargain and it's not done yet. I'm very happy and grateful to be able to give this rare and beautiful old press a new and useful life in my little shop.
IMG_1590.JPG
IMG_1593.JPG
IMG_1594.JPG
IMG_1589.JPG
 
Last edited:

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
New addition to the hat shop. The elusive Singer 108W20 binding machine. It didn't come with any binder attachments, but, incredibly, College Sewing in the UK has most of the binder parts for sale. This old beauty was sold "for parts or repair", but after some quality time on the workbench it's now sewing like a champ. It may or may not make my life easier, but I do love the old iron.
108W20.JPG
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
The timing really worked out for me. First, @belfastboy pointed me to a flange in my size and then Art Fawcett made me a great deal on a flange stand. I don’t have any ideas about making my own hats, but it’s nice to be able to do repairs and refurbishments on your own. This 7 3/4 long oval flange for a 2 5/8” brim will get lots of work. I’d like to get a few more flanges for wider brims too.

4BAFB471-661A-4681-8E70-C3810AFA097B.jpeg
EE640230-6A7B-4F79-BB8A-4F4D87F3FFBA.jpeg
271AD172-AC53-4521-8B06-D56CB475090F.jpeg
221417E1-D065-4F4A-A89D-4B9DB64B877E.jpeg
51EC20E4-B984-4123-A582-90EA44C26F44.jpeg
6059B0E6-36A6-473C-8C06-7E6FB3C79E3E.jpeg
DE4F88DD-6A55-4EE8-99A1-0AF3C8A96617.jpeg
 
Messages
10,840
Location
vancouver, canada
The timing really worked out for me. First, @belfastboy pointed me to a flange in my size and then Art Fawcett made me a great deal on a flange stand. I don’t have any ideas about making my own hats, but it’s nice to be able to do repairs and refurbishments on your own. This 7 3/4 long oval flange for a 2 5/8” brim will get lots of work. I’d like to get a few more flanges for wider brims too.

View attachment 219137 View attachment 219138 View attachment 219139 View attachment 219140 View attachment 219141 View attachment 219142 View attachment 219143

That flange looks to be in great shape. 3 of my flanges arrived today and I have 2 others in the mail. They are in pretty good shape a few dings in one of them but easily repaired. I am good from 7 1/8" up to 7 5/8". I passed on the 7 3/4" one. Now if only I could find the same deal on blocks!!
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
That flange looks to be in great shape. 3 of my flanges arrived today and I have 2 others in the mail. They are in pretty good shape a few dings in one of them but easily repaired. I am good from 7 1/8" up to 7 5/8". I passed on the 7 3/4" one. Now if only I could find the same deal on blocks!!

Thanks you for leaving me the 7 3/4. I really appreciate the help.
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
The timing really worked out for me. First, @belfastboy pointed me to a flange in my size and then Art Fawcett made me a great deal on a flange stand. I don’t have any ideas about making my own hats, but it’s nice to be able to do repairs and refurbishments on your own. This 7 3/4 long oval flange for a 2 5/8” brim will get lots of work. I’d like to get a few more flanges for wider brims too.

View attachment 219137 View attachment 219138 View attachment 219139 View attachment 219140 View attachment 219141 View attachment 219142 View attachment 219143
Good get there Brent. One doesn't see too many of those larger size flange blocks on the market, especially in a long oval. Kudos to bb for turning you on to that one and to Art for giving you a good deal on the stand. I've been watching with great interest as several of my friends fall further down the rabbit hole.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Good get there Brent. One doesn't see too many of those larger size flange blocks on the market, especially in a long oval. Kudos to bb for turning you on to that one and to Art for giving you a good deal on the stand. I've been watching with great interest as several of my friends fall further down the rabbit hole.


I just want to freshen hats up, and maybe do some minor Restoration. I’m leaving the heavy lifting to the experts.
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,789
Location
Central Ohio
As everyone probably already knows, I purchased a custom plastic block from Randal Alan. I did three quick back to back refurbs on it and I couldn't be happier with it. I had a particular profile that I wanted and he nailed it perfectly with his 3D imaging. I had a few other wooden custom blocks made for me and none came close to getting the profile I wanted. As far as holding up, I haven't had any problems with it at all so far. So, yeah. I'm very happy with it and I plan to get a couple more from him of the same profile but in different sizes. So, this has me interested in some of the other stuff he has, like brim flanges and brim curlers, etc....anyway, here's what I've done so far

My Randal Alan block: front and side views
Block-Randal-1-A.jpg


Block-Randal-2-A.jpg


4X Resistol Western refurb on the RA block:

4-X-Tan-Resistol-1.jpg


4-X-Tan-Resistol-4.jpg


4-X-Tan-Resistol-6-A.jpg


4-X-SC-Western-Tan-6-A.jpg


Puerto Fino on the Randal Alan:
Puerto-Fino-4-A.jpg


Puerto-Fino-14-A.jpg


Puerto-Fino-15-A.jpg


Puerto-Fino-1-A.jpg


My latest test subject. Borsalino on the Randal Alan block, (to be completed later on):
Borsalino-IV-1-A.jpg


Borsalino-IV-2-A.jpg


Borsalino-IV-3-A.jpg


...and these were all mid quality hats, including the Borsalino, (which is nowhere the near the felt quality of its vintage predecessors). In fact, I think I liked the Puerto Fino quality better than the more recent Borsa.

DISCLAIMER: to paraphrase Rick @ humanshoes , "I have no personal stake in the success or failure of Randal Alan's enterprise and I haven't requested or received any future special considerations."

I just simply like Randal's work...





 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,144
Messages
3,075,070
Members
54,124
Latest member
usedxPielt
Top