Pants theory

[Robert Conway]

Here's an idea.

My main beef with almost all modern chinos (Dockers etc) is the short rise and tapered cut of the leg. I like Bill's Khakis, but obviously they do not come in a wide variety of colors and at +$100 a shot aren't exactly cheap.

So here is my idea.

Lets say you wore 36/32 pants.

What if you purchased a pair of pants that were 36/36 and had them tailored to the proper 32 inch length (with cuffs)?

Would you get a taller rise, because they had originally been intended for a taller person?

Would you end up with a less tapered leg, after they had been shortened to the proper length (36 ->32)?

Would you end up with different results if the pants were unfinished vs a finished (no cuff) 36 inch length?

Does this sound like a completely halfwitted idea? I'm thinking about giving it a try.


Anyone?

Cheers,

RC

 

[GregNYC]

One thing that tailors and clothing vendors tell me is that with the increas in length, you get an increase in about all the dimensions other than waist measurement. Boxier hips and thighs, and a higher rise. I've done this with LVC 501s and it does come true. Never tried it with chinos.

Best is to try it with the same pants you already have in 32" inseam, then compare. It's worth it!

Also, try Buzz Rickson's - they're pretty good, and closer to 1940's cuts than Bills. I have an ebay link if you're interested.

 

[Robert Conway]

Yes, but aren't Buzz Rickson's pinks even more expensive than Bill's?
And you are still stuck with one color.

 

[resortes805]

I've done this with some off the rack slacks from Ross. You actually have to size up in inseam and waist size.

 

[GregNYC]

Yes, but aren't Buzz Rickson's pinks even more expensive than Bill's?
And you are still stuck with one color.

Yes they are expensive! But there are two whole colors! A khaki that's towards orange, and one that's more towards gray. I have the former, and the latter will be my next non-Army issue.

Among the times I've worn khakis to work, people have complimented me on them twice. One was the Buzz, the other was some U.S. Army Korean War originals. People didn't know what they were looking at of course. The rest of my khakis are Brooks Brothers or Bills. And as much as I like them, especially the Bills, they look too much like the average pair of Dockers/Dickies that everyone in my company wears!

 

[Feraud]

Sizing up and tailoring sounds like an option.
What length rise are we talking about?
I have found pants with a decent rise at Old Navy/Gap stores at average prices. Without measuring them I know they are right because I try them on and my wife comments they are "too high". Then I know they are keepers. The waist sits comfortably at my belly button. Does anyone want higher?
I measured a pair of khaki pants from Old Navy and the rise is 12". Is that too low for a vintage style? I think it is pretty good for "off the rack" and no additional tailoring necessary.

 

[Speedster]

One thing that tailors and clothing vendors tell me is that with the increas in length, you get an increase in about all the dimensions other than waist measurement. Boxier hips and thighs, and a higher rise. I've done this with LVC 501s and it does come true. Never tried it with chinos.

Best is to try it with the same pants you already have in 32" inseam, then compare. It's worth it!

Also, try Buzz Rickson's - they're pretty good, and closer to 1940's cuts than Bills. I have an ebay link if you're interested.

I would be very interested in the ebay link to the Buzz Rickson's. But do they come in size 36??

 

[Mojave Jack]

Sizing up and tailoring sounds like an option.
What length rise are we talking about?
I have found pants with a decent rise at Old Navy/Gap stores at average prices. Without measuring them I know they are right because I try them on and my wife comments they are "too high". Then I know they are keepers. The waist sits comfortably at my belly button. Does anyone want higher?
I measured a pair of khaki pants from Old Navy and the rise is 12". Is that too low for a vintage style? I think it is pretty good for "off the rack" and no additional tailoring necessary.

I like those Old Navy khakis, too, fo the same reason. Lately though, all the ones I've seen there have that stain resistant treating. For some reason those treated pants seem to attract dog fur! My older Old Navy khakis don't do that. Have you found ones that aren't treated? I mourn each pair that wears out because they are literally my favorite chinos.

 

[resortes805]

Sizing up and tailoring sounds like an option.
What length rise are we talking about?
I have found pants with a decent rise at Old Navy/Gap stores at average prices. Without measuring them I know they are right because I try them on and my wife comments they are "too high". Then I know they are keepers. The waist sits comfortably at my belly button. Does anyone want higher?

The navel is the lowest I would go for on a pair of slacks. I usually prefer higher becuase they'll usually lower throughout the day to hit their natural 'resting point.'

 

[CharlieH.]

I do that all the time. That is, buying oversize trousers to get an adequate rise (I usually check that by looking at the fly's length).
Unfortunately, I never get around to fixing the extra waistline.

 

[Feraud]

The navel is the lowest I would go for on a pair of slacks. I usually prefer higher becuase they'll usually lower throughout the day to hit their natural 'resting point.'

I see what you mean. Unless I am wearing braces I notice pants tend to creep downward.
Does Bill's Khakis or Buzz R- brand "measure up"?

I like those Old Navy khakis, too, fo the same reason. Lately though, all the ones I've seen there have that stain resistant treating. For some reason those treated pants seem to attract dog fur! My older Old Navy khakis don't do that. Have you found ones that aren't treated? I mourn each pair that wears out because they are literally my favorite chinos.

The trick with pants from a company like Old Navy or The Gap is the number of styles they sell side by side. They have mulitple khaki styles in boot cut, narrow leg, regular, loose, etc. It can be annoying to find what you like!
My recent Old Navy khaki's do not seem to be stain resistant. There is no notation about this on the pant. It is called the "Loose" pant. Very plain, no additional pockets or 80s style stitching I see coming back into vogue.
Here is the label on the inside back of the waistband.

Here is a measurement of the rise. Measured flat it is 12 1/2" from the seam of the crotch to the waistband.

I do not wear them "in the field" so the two pair I bought should last a while.

 

[Tomasso]

To measure the rise: first measure from waist to hem down the side seam, then measure from crotch to hem down the inseam; then subtract the difference.

 

[Feraud]

I am getting 41 and 29 with a difference of 12.
What are the Bill's and Buzz numbers? Can someone provide 'em?

 

[Barry]

I have found that today's rise works better for me now that I am wearing my trousers higher. In the past I wore actual short-rise pants that I bought from Brooks or special ordered from someplace like Majer or Corbin. From what I've heard, Corbin has actually been revived but the quality is not "the same" as it was in the past. If that's the fairly recent past then I will not even go near them. Majer trousers on the other hand are ok.

I actually tried on a pair of M-2 Bill's Khaki's again and pulled them up fairly high and they work just fine.

I prefer a shorter rise mainly due to a lack of "padding" in the rear. If I stuck with a really long rise my trousers would look too baggy in the back and would also feel uncomfortable.

Barry

 

[GregNYC]

I would be very interested in the ebay link to the Buzz Rickson's. But do they come in size 36??

Here's the listing:
http://tinyurl.com/yyyv3v

Almost a 36. Here are the sizes:

size 30 Waist approx 80cm length approx 85cm
size 31 Waist approx 82cm length approx 88cm
size 32 Waist approx 84cm length approx 88cm
size 33 Waist approx 86cm length approx 88cm
size 34 Waist approx 90cm length approx 90cm
size 35 Waist approx 92cm length approx 90cm

Here's the listing:
http://tinyurl.com/yyyv3v

 

[Feraud]

So what is the rise length on a pair of Buzz Rickson's?

 

[adamgottschalk]

I recently received my first pair of custom slacks from mytailor.com. At first, they felt much too small for me. My girlfriend insisted there was no contest with my non-fitted pants. I realized that having everything fit perfectly everywhere (the crotch, the waist, the thighs, the overall length) is a little disconcerting for an American man who has grown up wearing baggy pants at all times. My first reaction when I put them on was "Oh, these will never fit with a shirt tucked in"; I since realized that with fitted shirts (I'm up to 11), the shirts don't impact the fit at the waist at all (there's not a lot of extra, billowing material to get in the way). I think the tight rise was particularly off-putting to me, just not what I'm used to being an American. I'm better with it now--and my girlfriend insists they look "hot."

 

[Robert Conway]

I do that all the time. That is, buying oversize trousers to get an adequate rise (I usually check that by looking at the fly's length).
Unfortunately, I never get around to fixing the extra waistline.

Do you buy a waist size bigger than you need?
How about the length?

thanks

RC

 

[Feraud]

Do you buy a waist size bigger than you need?
How about the length?

thanks

RC

Yep, I think the idea is to buy a bigger waist and lenght and this will give a higher rise.
If anyone has done this, can you please post the length of the rise?
I do not see any value in going to all this tailoring trouble or buying the "designer" repro vintage khaki's if there is no significant measurement in the rise!

 

[undertaker]

I usually buy my trousers a size larger in the waist ( currently I am in a 42 so I get a 44 long rise when possible)and have the waist taken in and if necessary have a 2" gusset or crotch piece put in to give me the extra lenth in rise. Going up the size in the waist seems to give me a more convenient longer zipper also. I also try to buy trousers that are unhemmed so that the inseam is correctly hemmed for me. I have several pairs a Sansabelts that this method has worked quite well for me with. I also so like for mine to come up slightly above the naval, I can't stand to see these fellas with the waist of their trousers barely covering the crack of their... well you know.

Regards,
J.S.