Our Fave Cold-Weather Jackets

[HPA Rep]

Not in any special order, these reflect our own picks for the favorites list, which is based on the ability to function well in winter temperatures at least down to freezing, possess classic styling, top-quality materials and construction, and in some instances, represent one-time offerings or items made exclusively for us:

Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy Khaki N-1 Heavy Deck Jacket, Non-Stenciled HPA Edition

An exclusive item made just for us and introduced in 2014, their popularity has proven so good we are offering size 46 this year for the first time. We have all but sold out of all sizes and more jackets are due in the next two weeks, with advance orders being accepted now:

https://www.historypreservation.com...-heavy-deck-jacket-non-stenciled-hpa-edition/




Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy Blue N-1 Heavy Deck Jacket, Non-Stenciled HPA Edition

An exclusive item made just for us and introduced in 2014. We have all but sold out of all sizes and more jackets are due in the next two weeks, with advance orders being accepted now:

https://www.historypreservation.com...-heavy-deck-jacket-non-stenciled-hpa-edition/



Buzz Rickson William Gibson N-3B Flying Jacket, Tailored Cut, Black

The original standards of quality and material types have been strictly adhered to by Buzz Rickson’s, of course, and you have William Gibson’s personal approval of each item in the collection. A sleeker fit has been incorporated in this N-3B for those who prefer something slightly more tailored and less bulky than the original N-3B design, whereby the armholes have been raised slightly higher, the sleeves slightly more tapered, and the body slightly slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original design. Designed for serious cold, snow, freezing rain, sleet, etc., the water-repellant nylon-twill shell and coyote-trimmed snorkel hood will render you impervious to winter winds.

https://www.historypreservation.com...gibson-n-3b-flying-jacket-tailored-cut-black/



Buzz Rickson William Gibson MA-1 Flying Jacket, Tailored Cut

A perennial favorite executed superbly, this remains the top-selling Buzz Rickson’s jacket style for us. Wear it any way you like, this will function in upper temperatures with just a tee shirt or below freezing, and it’s made just the way Bill Gibson’s Cayce Pollard would have it – simple, functional, and built to last.

https://www.historypreservation.com...rmediate-flying-jacket-modified-tailored-cut/



Buzz Rickson William Gibson B-7 Flying Jacket, Tailored Cut, Black

A one-time offering for 2015-16, this baby will leave you breathless; it’s the most luxurious sheepskin garment we have to offer. The original B-7 was designed for use in Alaska and other Arctic-like areas, but the designers at Buzz Rickson’s determined that offering something for climates that are seriously cold, yet not as severely cold as those for which the B-7 was originally intended would yield a more versatile, marketable jacket while still offering profound insulation, cold-weather resistance, and unparalleled luxury.

A sleeker fit has been incorporated in this B-7 vs. the original B-7 design, whereby the armholes have been raised slightly higher, the sleeves more tapered, and the body greatly slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original design. Additionally, the jacket’s length has been shortened and the depth of luxurious sheep’s wool reduced to ½” vs. the 1” found in the original jacket. The fit is sensibly tailored to still allow for some layering (which is not likely needed for most of the world), yet also stylish.

This Buzz Rickson William Gibson B-7 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in sumptuous Merino sheepskin with a coyote-trimmed hood. Wear this on your winter forays on the job, to the opera, or for your conference with Vladimir at the Kremlin.

https://www.historypreservation.com...-gibson-b-7-flying-jacket-tailored-cut-black/




Buzz Rickson USAF B-15D Flying Jacket, Sage Green

Buzz Rickson’s has brought back the B-15D for the first time since 2001, which has never been available in N. America. This is a one-time release!

The B-15D Flying Jacket’s lightweight construction, comfortable non-bulky warmth, and natural good looks made this style an instant success with jet jockeys at bases around the world when it was introduced in 1952; the gorgeous color of the B-15D with its plush fur collar earned it a place as the most beautiful jacket in the USAF at the time. The B-15D was intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, thus ideally suited for early spring, late fall and winter.

https://www.historypreservation.com...-rickson-usaf-b-15d-flying-jacket-sage-green/



USAAF B-3 Flying Jacket, Perry Sportswear 17808 Mixed Batch

Part of Eastman’s Leather’s Original-Maker Series, this is among the kingpins in that collection. Rugged, hand-dyed, vegetable-tanned, unique, full-on authenticity, and lightly finished in Eastman’s TimeWear process for a subtle, vintage look at of the box. This is a man’s B-3 for the ages that will comfortably take you in the sub-freezing range.

https://www.historypreservation.com...-perry-sportswear-contract-17808-mixed-batch/




USAAF B-6 Flying Jacket, Rough Wear Clo. Co. 17756

Another fave from Eastman’s Original-Makers Series, this B-6 features pure vegetable tanning and the hand-applied dye with lacquer top coat per original specs. Designed for temperatures hovering around freezing with it’s authentic quarter-inch sheep’s wool, this is an alternative sheepskin flying jacket for those who don’t need the sub-freezing capabilities of the WWII sheepskin heavy weights such as the B-3.

https://www.historypreservation.com...jacket-rough-wear-clothing-co-contract-17756/




USAC B-3 Flying Jacket, 1937 S. F. A. D., Merino Fleece

This is our favorite Eastman B-3, now in its the 3rd incarnation of this jacket style and this time featuring Havana Brown sleeve reinforcements and trim with an overall significantly more subtle, vintage TimeWear treatment that allows the gorgeous wool to retain its full luster!

The ultimate in vintage character and appearance has been added via Eastman's hand-applied TimeWear process, so this jacket looks vintage right out of the box, which is really the most attractive form for this B-3 vs. a boldly new-looking, off-white jacket. Interestingly, the combination of the unique jacket style and the vintage TimeWear, it has been said, gives the jacket more of a western look than a military aviation appearance, making it seem more at home on the range than in the air.

https://www.historypreservation.com...-flying-jacket-1937-s-f-a-d-in-merino-fleece/

 

[nick123]

Hey Charles,

Along the lines of cold weather wear, I'm going to purchase a pair of A-10 gloves from the HPA website for my Dad's Christmas gift. I just measured the widest part of his knuckles and it comes in at 8". That seems small given he wears a Large in generic work gloves. If you had to guess, what would an 8.5 equate to in modern sizing?

Happy Holidays

 

[Graemsay]

The William Gibson / Buzz Rickson B7 is awesome. It's a good thing it doesn't come in my size, as it'd be a one-way ticket to penury, and I doubt it gets cold enough in these parts to wear it.

There's an interview with William Gibson at Heddels, formerly Rawr Denim, about the Buzz Rickson line. If you haven't read it then take a look, as it explains the genesis of the line.

 

[HPA Rep]

The William Gibson / Buzz Rickson B7 is awesome. It's a good thing it doesn't come in my size, as it'd be a one-way ticket to penury, and I doubt it gets cold enough in these parts to wear it.

There's an interview with William Gibson at Heddels, formerly Rawr Denim, about the Buzz Rickson line. If you haven't read it then take a look, as it explains the genesis of the line.

Yes, the B-7 is, quite possibly, the greatest work of art I've ever seen come from Buzz Rickson's. They made less than 150 of these for worldwide sales and then it's over.

That's an interesting interview; thanks for sharing. Assuming the writer didn't botch some of the material, it's interesting that Bill Gibson would attribute the BRWG Collection to 2004; the black MA-1 premiered in fall 2003 as a 10th anniversary release in the 2004 catalog and the BRWG Collection didn't premier until 2007.

 

[HPA Rep]

Hey Charles,

Along the lines of cold weather wear, I'm going to purchase a pair of A-10 gloves from the HPA website for my Dad's Christmas gift. I just measured the widest part of his knuckles and it comes in at 8". That seems small given he wears a Large in generic work gloves. If you had to guess, what would an 8.5 equate to in modern sizing?

Happy Holidays

Thanks for the interest, Nick 123, and I hope your Thanksgiving was relaxing and happy. The sizing issue isn't easy, and given what you added, it's more difficult. Each year's batch of A-10's vary a bit in fit, and when you factor in it's a trim glove by design, plus different people have different preferences in fit, getting the right fit can be a real challenge. My hand measures exactly 9" and I'm wearing the BR A-10's from years back in size 9 and it's fabulous. There have been years where the size 9 would've been too tight on me, but this year's batch has been snug but correct, so I'd again select a size 9 for myself, knowing they will conform and stretch to a perfect fit over time. But we've had customers who clearly prefer looser fits, much as in jackets, and have bumped up a half size.

We have in stock size 8's that are true 8's, which will fit a hand measuring 8" but these will indeed be snug when new. I can't say with any precision what a generic Large is equal to, but it sounds as if your dad likes a looser fit, so maybe a size 9 is the way to go. That's about all I can say basded on what I know. And I can add that selling these gloves is far more difficult than selling jackets or shirts.

 

[nick123]

Thanks for the interest, Nick 123, and I hope your Thanksgiving was relaxing and happy. The sizing issue isn't easy, and given what you added, it's more difficult. Each year's batch of A-10's vary a bit in fit, and when you factor in it's a trim glove by design, plus different people have different preferences in fit, getting the right fit can be a real challenge. My hand measures exactly 9" and I'm wearing the BR A-10's from years back in size 9 and it's fabulous. There have been years where the size 9 would've been too tight on me, but this year's batch has been snug but correct, so I'd again select a size 9 for myself, knowing they will conform and stretch to a perfect fit over time. But we've had customers who clearly prefer looser fits, much as in jackets, and have bumped up a half size.

We have in stock size 8's that are true 8's, which will fit a hand measuring 8" but these will indeed be snug when new. I can't say with any precision what a generic Large is equal to, but it sounds as if you dad likes a looser fit, so maybe a size 9 is the way to go. That's about all I can say beaded on what I know. And I can add that selling these gloves is far more difficult than selling jackets or shirts.

Wow! Who knew.

 

[ronbo]

My B-15C Buzz says HI !! Thanks again to the folks at HPA for having one in Size 48 for me all those years ago. The lady who took my order was wonderful. Cheers -Ronbo

 

[HPA Rep]

My B-15C Buzz says HI !! Thanks again to the folks at HPA for having one in Size 48 for me all those years ago. The lady who took my order was wonderful. Cheers -Ronbo

That was great to see a blast from the past, Ronbo. Thank you for sharing. Size 48 hasn't been offered by us for quite a long time, due entirely to the high minimums vs. related sales of that size. Your jacket has held up really well, which is a testament to the USAF-spec., heavy nylon twill Buzz Rickson's meticulously reproduces on vintage looms.

I will impart your sentiments to Ginna, the lady who took your order and who was forced to retire after a horrific auto crash on Black Friday 2012. She and we have nothing but the best memories of her long years with us and she has said many times that she misses the customers. Ginna is one of those irreplaceable people you are fortunate to have had in your life, one you knew was irreplaceable almost from the day they began working with you. Thank you for recalling her so fondly.

We wish you many more years of happy, healthy enjoyment with the B-15C!

 

[rocketeer]

Love my B3 and old style Roughwear and oh so slightly small(ish) ANJ4. I would like a B6 but in B3 thickness with buckles rather than those zip sides. Had an original N1, great winter jacket for working on the car.
Your Marino B3? At £500 more than the standard Eastman B3 appears a little steep to me as there is no more work in any of them bar the Devon version has a four piece back. In my mind it is just not as good looking as the Rougher red version. Is the fleece £500 more than standard materials. But thats just me as a wearer rather than a collector.
My A10 gloves fit nicely with all my winter jackets thanks, they are getting a bit old now but great for dog walking and general dossing about in cold weather though the knits catch on my watch.
Cheers, John

 

[HPA Rep]

Love my B3 and old style Roughwear and oh so slightly small(ish) ANJ4. I would like a B6 but in B3 thickness with buckles rather than those zip sides. Had an original N1, great winter jacket for working on the car.
Your Marino B3? At £500 more than the standard Eastman B3 appears a little steep to me as there is no more work in any of them bar the Devon version has a four piece back. In my mind it is just not as good looking as the Rougher red version. Is the fleece £500 more than standard materials. But thats just me as a wearer rather than a collector.
My A10 gloves fit nicely with all my winter jackets thanks, they are getting a bit old now but great for dog walking and general dossing about in cold weather though the knits catch on my watch.
Cheers, John

Actually, John, there's quite a good deal of work in the SFAD B-3. Not only do the Merino pelts cost more than those used in the standard B-3, but they have to be rendered into the fine sueded finish, dyed to the off-white shade (they'd be awfully whitish if this wasn't done), then washed and given TimeWear for the vintage aesthetics. Add in the shipping costs back and forth between tannery and finishers (not the same source), cost difference on zippers and chain hanger, which both also get made at one facility and then are shipped elsewhere for a matte, period-correct finish, four-piece back of the SFAD B-3 and no side panels (the latter forcing the consumption of more skins with added waste) and everything begins to add up. It's up to the consumer to decide if they value the difference in cost vs. what one gets in the finished goods, but the look of each style is decidedly quite different.

I can say as an owner of four repro B-3's (Buzz Rickson, ELC Rough Wear, ELC Perry, and ELC SFAD), that the SFAD is the most comfortable, easy-wearing, flexible B-3, due entirely to the absence the lacquer core seal and related dye coat applied to the exterior on these B-3's of the post-1937 era in the Air Corps. For those who like the uniqueness of the SFAD B-3's appearance, the comfort and flexibility will be received as a pleasant bonus.

 

[rocketeer]

I don't want anyone johnson's oil near my jacket

Actually, John, there's quite a good deal of work in the SFAD B-3. Not only do the Merino pelts cost more than those used in the standard B-3, but they have to be rendered into the fine sueded finish, dyed to the off-white shade (they'd be awfully whitish if this wasn't done), then washed and given TimeWear for the vintage aesthetics. Add in the shipping costs back and forth between tannery and finishers (not the same source), cost difference on zippers and chain hanger, which both also get made at one facility and then are shipped elsewhere for a matte, period-correct finish, four-piece back of the SFAD B-3 and no side panels (the latter forcing the consumption of more skins with added waste) and everything begins to add up. It's up to the consumer to decide if they value the difference in cost vs. what one gets in the finished goods, but the look of each style is decidedly quite different.

I can say as an owner of four repro B-3's (Buzz Rickson, ELC Rough Wear, ELC Perry, and ELC SFAD), that the SFAD is the most comfortable, easy-wearing, flexible B-3, due entirely to the absence the lacquer core seal and related dye coat applied to the exterior on these B-3's of the post-1937 era in the Air Corps. For those who like the uniqueness of the SFAD B-3's appearance, the comfort and flexibility will be received as a pleasant bonus.

These details are nice to know to a mere layman like me I just wear them because I like them. Not seen one in the flesh so to speak.
My Roughwear serves lots of purposes, mainly dog walking in the snow, also a duvet when I slob out on the settee(sofa, couch) and various shows I go to in winter as I only like wearing Ts under jackets. A bit too hot to go posing at summer airshows, I bought mine in June(about 12 years ago) and most of the wear points are bare.
Great jacket, just looks better than The San Francisco model(In my opinion).
Thanks for the details, seeya, J

 

[HPA Rep]

These details are nice to know to a mere layman like me I just wear them because I like them. Not seen one in the flesh so to speak.
My Roughwear serves lots of purposes, mainly dog walking in the snow, also a duvet when I slob out on the settee(sofa, couch) and various shows I go to in winter as I only like wearing Ts under jackets. A bit too hot to go posing at summer airshows, I bought mine in June(about 12 years ago) and most of the wear points are bare.
Great jacket, just looks better than The San Francisco model(In my opinion).
Thanks for the details, seeya, J

You can have Eastman repair the worn-off sheepskin trim, if you wish, John. We've sent quite a few to be done and they come back looking new.

 

[rocketeer]

You can have Eastman repair the worn-off sheepskin trim, if you wish, John. We've sent quite a few to be done and they come back looking new.

A good idea but I will probably wear the thing to death. It is too clean to pass for an original but you never know in another 50 years when I am long gone. Maybe someone will remove the label and.....well! No I don't think a 65 year old jacket will pass for a 140ish year old jacket but thanks anyway.
Now if only we could persuade Gary to change the button pockets back to poppers on the ANJ4 and put the waist straps back on the B6 instead of the ugly zips

 

[Davy Crockett]

Certainly second the change back to poppers on the ANJ4 but I find the zips excellent on my B6 and would not change them for straps!

D

 

[rocketeer]

Certainly second the change back to poppers on the ANJ4 but I find the zips excellent on my B6 and would not change them for straps!

D

It is not that the zips are not practical or easier, personally I just think they don't look good, as though they have been attached as an afterthought. They would look better if covered but then that would not be authentic.

 

[heron163]

what really sucks is you don't have a B15D in sage green in my size... I try to interpret the size information and it seems impossible for one to fit me...

 

[HPA Rep]

what really sucks is you don't have a B15D in sage green in my size... I try to interpret the size information and it seems impossible for one to fit me...

Please allow me to extend some personal fitting assistance. If you don't wish to share body info. here, please contact the office; otherwise, let's just look at some basic data:

1) Chest circumference with just a tee shirt or bare chest
2) Height
3) Shirt sleeve measure
4) Waist circumference at widest point
5) Body weight
6) Type of clothing you will typically wear under it
7) Type of fit you desire: Loose/roomy or precise

Feel free to ask questions, please. Thank you.

 

[heron163]

Please allow me to extend some personal fitting assistance. If you don't wish to share body info. here, please contact the office; otherwise, let's just look at some basic data:

1) Chest circumference with just a tee shirt or bare chest: 46"
2) Height: 5'9"
3) Shirt sleeve measure: 26"
4) Waist circumference at widest point: 36"
5) Body weight: 190 lbs
6) Type of clothing you will typically wear under it: light shirt
7) Type of fit you desire: Loose/roomy or precise: loose

Feel free to ask questions, please. Thank you.

I added my dimensions - LMK...

thanks

 

[HPA Rep]

I added my dimensions - LMK...

thanks

Good job, and thank you!

Well, I'd first say that our SIZING TIPS on our website do seem to work and that you are on the outside of what would typically work. But there are exceptions that no formula can account for, so I'll present an experienced opinion and you can make your own call on this:

If your actual waist is 36" at it widest point and this is not just a size you where in trousers/jeans, you have a difference of 10" between your waist an chest, which is impressive and also the same difference I have between waist and chest measures; most customers who are 5' 9" tall and weigh 190 lbs. would have a waist measure about 40" or so and would also be fighting the fit in that area as much or more than the chest. Also, most customers at this weight have chest measures of about 44", so the chest is still in reach to fit the size 44.

The math of the jacket and your body is that you would fit in a size 44, no question, in the same way I could wear a size 38 (my chest is 40") and I have done that when I needed to. The size 40 is my choice, and this choice is one that has a bit more to do with the extra length gained in a size 40 vs. a 38. We have a few customers who have a 46" chest measure and who are happy wearing the B-15 jackets from Buzz Rickson's in size 44, so it certainly can be done. But if you are muscular in build, it may create some issues in fit that someone who is not might experience.

My own experience, interestingly, in wearing the size 38 was with a B-15D back when I couldn't get my hands on a size 40 and 38 was all that was available to me and I wanted the style that badly, and as mentioned, the main reason I ended up eventually getting the 40 was for greater length. I have a good friend who has a 46" chest measure and 36" waist measure, muscular in build, and 6' tall, weighing about 215 lbs., and he could wear the size 44, though he chose a 46 in the B-15C when we had that size solely due to the greater room in the shoulder and lats in the 46, and because size 46 was available. The final analysis is that you have a chance to wear this size, but one not better, I'd say, than 50-50.

You indicated you want a roomy fit, too, and I'd say a 44 would give you room, but if we had a 46, that would be "roomy."
The only way we'll know is to try it on you, which is a call only you can make. There won't be any size 46's that I can envision and we are now down to just one size 44 remaining in stock. There you have it ...

 

[omarco]

Charles, what excellent sizing advice. Perhaps you could help me out too. I'm after a Perry B3, am 6'1" with a 40" chest and a 33" waist.

Do I go for the 40 or 42?! both would be extra long as I'd like a back length around 26-27". I like a trim fit and I have a Real McCoy D1 with a perfect fit which measures 22" p2p...

Any help greatfully received!