Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Original Lewis Holster of Los Angeles- Inspiration to the Freewheelers Muholland

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,825
Location
China
I came across another Lewis Holster jacket and it looks to be where FW got its inspiration, not the Californian, not Cal Leather or Seattle Woolen. This Lewis is different from the one in Tanaka's book.

1706496951986.png


1706497072557.png

1706497306043.png
 
Last edited:

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,074
Location
Philadelphia
AFAIK there was no vintage jacket that looked exactly like the Mulholland.

I saw an old Japanese blog years ago about the Mulholland. They pictured a Trojan CHP as the “inspiration”. There’s a reason FW put a “Spartan” (Trojan) label in that jacket.

But it wasn’t an identical match detail for detail and in reality Freewheelers took inspiration and combined details from all CHPs.

In fact, there’s a Californian CHP (@Marc mndt posted it once) and it has more accurate details to the Mulholland than this Lewis does. To say that it wasn’t inspired by the Californian (or any other vintage CHP for that matter) is flat out wrong.

The only Mulholland detail I see this Lewis has that the Californian doesn’t is the shape of the cuffs and the low waist adjusters.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,825
Location
China
AFAIK there was no vintage jacket that looked exactly like the Mulholland.

I saw an old Japanese blog years ago about the Mulholland. They pictured a Trojan CHP as the “inspiration”. There’s a reason FW put a “Spartan” (Trojan) label in that jacket.

But it wasn’t an identical match detail for detail and in reality Freewheelers took inspiration and combined details from all CHPs.

In fact, there’s a Californian CHP (@Marc mndt posted it once) and it has more accurate details to the Mulholland than this Lewis does. To say that it wasn’t inspired by the Californian (or any other vintage CHP for that matter) is flat out wrong.

The only Mulholland detail I see this Lewis has that the Californian doesn’t is the shape of the cuffs and the low waist adjusters.
Actually, It is not the waist adjuster. In fact, FW uses a mode modern waist adjuster design like LL Lightning, Vanson chopper which is on top and not sewn into the seam. It is the waist band as a whole. Most noticeable to me is the spacing of the stitches on the waist band. FW did take some elements from a say a Californian. Afterall, he worked at RM who copies the Californian down to the T. I posted a comparison of the Californian and the Mobster.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...hat-have-mccoys-done-with-this-jacket.106692/
But my bet is this Lewis is the base model lending the overall look (even the brown leather lining inside) while others are just bits and pieces all over.
And yes, I joked about the Spartan too along with their humour in calling a police jacket Mobster.
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,631
A bit off topic: Here is the label inside the LW CHP. The jacket looks more like a Cal to me but there are plenty of Trojan jackets I’ve never seen. Cool label nonetheless.

1706547254126.jpeg
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,716
The overall jacket looks very similar especially the front bottom band. The biggest difference as pointed out already is the FW jacket doesn't have side gusset panels and the Lewis (LA) does. Beautiful jacket non the less. The natural inside hem band reminds me of some Peter's jackets and my Trojan repro has that feature too but I couldn't get a clear enough pic of the original jacket. But for sure the Peter's jackets had that natty inside band. Really nice feature imo, like painting the bottom of the shoe red.
 
Messages
10,631
The overall jacket looks very similar especially the front bottom band. The biggest difference as pointed out already is the FW jacket doesn't have side gusset panels and the Lewis (LA) does. Beautiful jacket non the less. The natural inside hem band reminds me of some Peter's jackets and my Trojan repro has that feature too but I couldn't get a clear enough pic of the original jacket. But for sure the Peter's jackets had that natty inside band. Really nice feature imo, like painting the bottom of the shoe red.

All Weather/Leather garment co also had the natty interior panel on their CHP. Some of their other styles too.

Edit: Meant to add that I too find the inner band to be a nice touch. Get to see some serious wear on the hide too.
 
Last edited:

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,978
All Weather/Leather garment co also had the natty interior panel on their CHP. Some of their other styles too.

Edit: Meant to add that I too find the inner band to be a nice touch. Get to see some serious wear on the hide too.

Many of the older NorCal jackets I've seen have that too.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,074
Location
Philadelphia
The overall jacket looks very similar especially the front bottom band. The biggest difference as pointed out already is the FW jacket doesn't have side gusset panels and the Lewis (LA) does. Beautiful jacket non the less. The natural inside hem band reminds me of some Peter's jackets and my Trojan repro has that feature too but I couldn't get a clear enough pic of the original jacket. But for sure the Peter's jackets had that natty inside band. Really nice feature imo, like painting the bottom of the shoe red.
No one piece back, no underarm gussets on Lewis, all present on the Californian. But many companies had one piece backs and many Block Bilt jackets I’ve seen had those same underarm gussets. The biggest thing about the Cali to me are those stitch lines coming out of the front hand warmer pockets, that to me seems like it was clearly lifted off the Californians by FW.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,279
Messages
3,077,783
Members
54,221
Latest member
magyara
Top