Opinions requested...NOT FOR SALE

[bretron]

... I think the original predated zips, so I would do without the zippered pocket.

Just sayin

 

[jack miranda]

Overall, Dave, it is nice work. My thoughts/mods: the breast pocket works with a different pull, not a loop one; button cuffs, a la 30's hb; the front works as is with the slight downward taper; the side adjusters are a problem for me. I don't like them right at the bottom of the jacket, but, higher up at the waist or none at all. The vent holes I'd move up under the armpit, not along the sleeve. Yes, I'd shorten the pockets a bit. I like the collar as is. Splendid label, BTW. The workmanship is great. I appreciate your putting your work here and inviting comment. That's not easy, however friendly the posts. Thank you.

 

[scottyrocks]

I think it's a great-looking jacket. I just think that with my fingers, I'd never be able to close it.

 

[Jingo Mastapone]

I was going to recommend a larger collar until someone made the valid point that increasing its size may prevent it being worn turned up. Alternatively, in an effort to balance its mass with the rest of the jacket, how about bringing the sides in for a more fitted V-shaped look?

I like the dropped front and I think having snaps at the bottom of a row of buttons is fine. The functionality of them there validates their presence. Much easier to get started than buttons, I imagine.

I've never seen a shawl collared leather jacket before and I think it's great!

 

[ButteMT61]

Coming around to the color a bit...
Cuffs: straps like the GW Ventura would look nice. I keep looking at the cuffs and they're "missing something" for me.
Buttons all the way.
Smaller hand warmer pockets.
Drop the chain pull on the breast pocket.
How does the hide look in sunlight (outdoors)?

 

[majormajor]

I've never seen a shawl collared leather jacket before and I think it's great!

Hi Jingo

The shawl collar/buttoned front leather jacket has been increasing in popularity for a little while now.

Himel, in the US, have made quite a number. Here's one of theirs:

More recently, Aero, in the UK, have introduced their Aeromarine. Here's mine:

All these jackets are based on early original examples of motorcycle/flying jackets, that pre-dated the A1 jacket.

I have seen the original that Ken Calder of Aero used as a basis for the Aeromarine.

This jacket by Dave is inspired by this thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?71366-An-alternate-Aeromarine

which discusses alternative pocket treatments for this buttoned design.

@breton. Yes, I remember you posting that jacket, which, I guess dates from a little later, after zips were being used on jackets. But for the same reason I wouldn't want one on an A1, I prefer a buttoned leather to be like the early, pre-zip originals

 

[Plumbline]

JC Penny produced almost an exact copy of the Menklo Cossack up till the mid 1940's albeit from different hide and lined ........ jackets in the 1920's and 30's utilised the short ball and chain talon zipper as a pocket zipper ..... in fact they used this zipper design up till the mid 1950's. Now they weren't used in the 1910-20's jacket but they were certainly used extensively by a number of manufacturers ( I suspect because they were one of the few freely available examples) right through the 1920's till the 1950's ( being particularly prevailant with Simmons Bilt and Californian) ...... the jacket Dave produced doesn't scream 1910-1920 to me ..... more similar to the jackets produced by JC Penny, Montgomery Ward and other for the non M/C market through the 30's ( although by then the new "zipper" became the must have closeure ... replacing buttons ... yah )

Nice jacket though .... see P 23, 26 and particularly P35 of A Century of Leather Design ... this jacket is close to JC Penneys "Deerskin Sports Jacket" of the late 1930's .

 

[bretron]

I prefer without the zipper as well... But i also prefer the models with pocket bags rather hand warmers

 

[majormajor]

I prefer without the zipper as well... But i also prefer the models with pocket bags rather hand warmers

I like 'em both. I hope either Dave or Ken bring one to market

 

[bretron]

I like 'em both. I hope either Dave or Ken bring one to market

Yeah baby!

 

[Sloan1874]

Actually, that's what I was thinking. Good to see not only a skilled designer coming to the market, but talking to potential customers about his designs first.

 

[wild_balls]

The choice of linen for lining is a great choice, good thing to ventilate ideas with future customers!


Cheers Joakim

 

[Sloan1874]

One for Dave. What are your thoughts on what's been said?

 

[DiamondDave]

One for Dave. What are your thoughts on what's been said?

Sloan,

MAN! This has really been informative!! I must say that I am thrilled to see all of the feedback. So, that said, the pattern is being re-drafted to take into account some of the things that have been said, but of course, you cannot please all of the people, all of the time, SO not ALL of the ideas will make it into the design.

Thus, here are my thoughts on what is going to change in the next iteration.


Collar: Will be VERY slightly fuller at the front, but not so far as to get close to that Peter Pan thing that I worry about, and remain constant at the back.

Hide: The Olive does not translate well, so I am leaning to more standard colors of the period. Russet, Seal Brown and Black... alas, I still think that a Green would be
good and totally fit in the timeframe, just not THIS green.

Humidor Pocket: Dropped... enough said. LOL!

Hand Warmer Pockets: Will be dropped for a standard, flapped, patch pocket design... a la the A-1 and A-2 styles.

Side Buckles: Will remain, but the side gusset is being enlarged and 3 bar slide buckles will replace the D-Rings ( Though look at the Tanaka Book mentioned above, and you see a LOT of the D-Rings closures )

Front Belt Base: Shape is changing, being shortened, but also a more V shaped front panel will be employed.

Back: Though I see that Aero does a V shaped back yoke with a single line down the center to the base, I will not do this... and here is why. I go back to my graphic design school days and remember the lesson that the Human eye does not like to see things that have been "halved", when the rule of 3rds is far more appealing. SO that left me with only two options... a 3 piece back, or a solid one piece. I have chosen the latter as I find it more refined, though less detailed and more in keeping with the 20s design aesthetic. The 3 piece back is far more 30s in its influences anyway.

Sleeve Cuffs: I have opted to do a button cuff on this next iteration, though a strap is still valid for the timeframe and I may go that way later in the week as the pattern gets more completed.

Last, I guess is to say THANK YOU to all that have been involved in the process!!

Ciao for now,

DD

 

[majormajor]

Sloan,

MAN! This has really been informative!! I must say that I am thrilled to see all of the feedback. So, that said, the pattern is being re-drafted to take into account some of the things that have been said, but of course, you cannot please all of the people, all of the time, SO not ALL of the ideas will make it into the design.

Thus, here are my thoughts on what is going to change in the next iteration.


Collar: Will be VERY slightly fuller at the front, but not so far as to get close to that Peter Pan thing that I worry about, and remain constant at the back.

Hide: The Olive does not translate well, so I am leaning to more standard colors of the period. Russet, Seal Brown and Black... alas, I still think that a Green would be
good and totally fit in the timeframe, just not THIS green.

Humidor Pocket: Dropped... enough said. LOL!

Hand Warmer Pockets: Will be dropped for a standard, flapped, patch pocket design... a la the A-1 and A-2 styles.

Side Buckles: Will remain, but the side gusset is being enlarged and 3 bar slide buckles will replace the D-Rings ( Though look at the Tanaka Book mentioned above, and you see a LOT of the D-Rings closures )

Front Belt Base: Shape is changing, being shortened, but also a more V shaped front panel will be employed.

Back: Though I see that Aero does a V shaped back yoke with a single line down the center to the base, I will not do this... and here is why. I go back to my graphic design school days and remember the lesson that the Human eye does not like to see things that have been "halved", when the rule of 3rds is far more appealing. SO that left me with only two options... a 3 piece back, or a solid one piece. I have chosen the latter as I find it more refined, though less detailed and more in keeping with the 20s design aesthetic. The 3 piece back is far more 30s in its influences anyway.

Sleeve Cuffs: I have opted to do a button cuff on this next iteration, though a strap is still valid for the timeframe and I may go that way later in the week as the pattern gets more completed.

Last, I guess is to say THANK YOU to all that have been involved in the process!!

Ciao for now,

DD

Excellent stuff, Dave. Looking forward to version 2

 

[Fanch]

Dave, that sounds like a great plan - very close to the Heron concept. The solid one-piece back design concept is very appealing. Do you plan to go with buttons rather than snaps at the bottom of the jacket to be consistent with buttons throughout? What is the back length that you would anticipate for a size 42?

 

[DiamondDave]

Dave, that sounds like a great plan - very close to the Heron concept. The solid one-piece back design concept is very appealing. Do you plan to go with buttons rather than snaps at the bottom of the jacket to be consistent with buttons throughout? What is the back length that you would anticipate for a size 42?

Oh yes, neglected to mention the buttons.... well I am of two minds on this one. Two buttons at the bottom are very difficult to "do up" though I agree that the look is "cleaner" and more cohesive. That said though, I know that once the button holes relax with use this may be moot. I will probably go with buttons throughout.

As to a size 42, this will probably fit much like an A-2, so I would guess that a 42 will be somewhere around 25" from the withers to the base of the belt.

DD

 

[DiamondDave]

:eusa_clap

Thanks again to all involved.

DD

 

[Sloan1874]

Shame about the pockets but as you say, you can't please all of the people. I like the one-piece back and colour options too. And I would say that one Peter Pan collar on the market is one too many, so you won't hear any arguments from me.

 

[Worf]

Outstanding news.... New Blood in the game. I've only seen one Green HH jacket... A Lost Worlds limited edition. I'd buy one in green. But russets fine too. What's the largest you're gonna make?

Worf