**NEWS EXTRA**Good Wear flying jackets take vintage authenticity to new heights!!

[Mike K.]

Mike, I don't know if you visit here or saw the link in another thread, but here's a review by another self admitted obsessive compulsive A-2 lover about his Aero John made for him. BTW, love the avatar, I like the safari look.

http://cornellsurgery.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1117&start=0

fedoralover

Thanks fedoralover. I pretty much reside here and visit the VLJ forum. I thought that I saw a post that you were looking to get the Dubow repro from John to complement the Aero you currently own (which btw is a fantastic looking jacket). I tend to be a "one A-2" kinda guy, but I too am a bit obsessive compulsive about the look and fit. I was about to re-order from Aero to replace a jacket I sold (not so good fit), but I'm seriously considering the 21996 from John.

As for the avatar, that's my daily look (I'm an Audubon Society warden/biologist). My life is a safari; however, I suffer from a split personality of sorts. I love & collect both the old safari gear and the WWII aviation gear. This year I took all the safari-related apparel to the Fedora Lounge event on the Queen Mary, next year I'll probably go with all my Army Air Corps stuff.

Cheers!

 

[Mike K.]

I've been wanting another A-2 in a dark seal brown and was thinking of getting another Aero, but when I saw I could get a Goodwear A-2 for only another $125. it seemed a no brainer.

I decided on the Dubow

In this color--English Pub coffee

fedoralover

Aha, it was here that I saw it. I've been going back-n-forth between here and the VLJ forum too much lately as I research my next A-2 purchase. Thanks for that review link, I've got it bookmarked.

 

[fedoralover]

Aero's are great, mine is finally taking on some personality. For some reason Mark Moye is no longer offering A-2s on his ebay store. In fact his webpage says if you want one you have to contact the oversea's headquarters.

But laying all personalities aside, John's have that "Look" that I haven't seen in the other's, including Aero's. As an example is the pocket flap on the different contracts. John's follow a particular contract design as can be seen from the above pics. But many of the others seem to just have a couple generic one's which don't always follow the original. I'm not even a collector and I can see the difference.

BTW, I've got a couple of the OLD Willis and Geiger safari jackets with the maroon labels.

fedoralover

 

[Windsock]

Great pix, Feraud. One is now my avatar.

I can attest that the Bonanza Mesa used by John is as pleasing in feel as it is in appearance. It's flexible, richly varied in texture, and feels tough enough to outlive its owner.

So it finally gave in to you Paul and the fit's adjusted to your shape?

I have given mine a bit of HWT and managed to grow the sleeves by an inch and it's now perfect. After the water the hide appeared to age 60 years with large areas of very light undertones so I light ironed it under a towel and restored the darker surface. It is amazing leather- no wonder the makers of it were surprised to hear of this furniture leather being used for clothing...

 

[fedoralover]

So it finally gave in to you Paul and the fit's adjusted to your shape?

I have given mine a bit of HWT and managed to grow the sleeves by an inch and it's now perfect. After the water the hide appeared to age 60 years with large areas of very light undertones so I light ironed it under a towel and restored the darker surface. It is amazing leather- no wonder the makers of it were surprised to hear of this furniture leather being used for clothing...

Would you mind elaborating on the HWT and ironing a little? Its sounds like a useful technique but a bit scary for a newbie with an $800 jacket.

And thanks for the pic, the United Sheeplined contract was the other one I was seriously considering. It's a great looking jacket.

fedoralover

 

[Vintage Betty]

Mr. MikeK, would you elaborate on the FJL Forum please? I haven't heard of it.

I am familiar with these jackets and vintage leathrer, but not this particular leather jacket. I can see the difference in stitching and leathers in all jackets posted, and do understand the authenticity discussion.

However, what is the wear vs acceptability factor? Fletch's lovely jacket is obviously a thick leather meant for serious wear, both the stitching and style of grain on the leather hide show the well chosen leather and long-lasting construction.

The other jackets appear to have thinner hides, well treated, but the same thickness was not chosen and the stitching is useful, but not meant to wear and tear for years under the same conditions. Appropriate for standard use, but probably not meant to wear for many years of hard use, correct?

Which do you gentlemen prefer? The battle leather to withstand the hard use but cumbersome to wear (Oh, the pains of bending your arms), or the thinner leather but more beautifully treated for a nice nite out?

Worn out Vintage? Perfect Vintage? New reproduction? Stressed reproduction?

Curious (ladies) minds would like to know.

Vintage Betty

 

[scotrace]

VLJ = Vintage Leather Jackets, a forum for collectors.

Original jackets are often quite small, but I would bet that most of us would prefer to have one if we could. Mr. Chapman's jackets seem to be the closest thing made yet.

 

[Mike K.]

Mr. MikeK, would you elaborate on the FJL Forum please? I haven't heard of it.

Curious (ladies) minds would like to know.

Vintage Betty

Scotrace beat me to it - it's the vintage leather jackets forum alright. You want details, and I mean DETAILS, about what really makes a jacket (specifically flight jackets) this is the place to go. Of course John Chapman is a human encyclopedia on the subject of flight jackets, so you could go straight to the source. His new line of flight jacket reproductions, as evidenced in some of the pictures on this thread, are truly incredible. I can't wait to purchase one!!

 

[Fletch]

So it finally gave in to you Paul and the fit's adjusted to your shape?

This is actually my second GW. The first was a Bronco 29291 repro, which I finally gave up on as just too tight thru the arms.

This current one's a United 42-18777, a mostly similar pattern (both Bronco & United were divisions of Spiewak & Co.), but more forgiving in the sleeves and shoulders.

Both are size 44, but the United is fuller cut all around (allbeit still a square military fit).

 

[fedoralover]

This is actually my second GW. The first was a Bronco 29291 repro, which I finally gave up on as just too tight thru the arms.

This current one's a United 42-18777, a mostly similar pattern (both Bronco & United were divisions of Spiewak & Co.), but more forgiving in the sleeves and shoulders.

Both are size 44, but the United is fuller cut all around (allbeit still a square military fit).

Fletch, how about some frontal pic's.

fedoralover

 

[Windsock]

Would you mind elaborating on the HWT and ironing a little? Its sounds like a useful technique but a bit scary for a newbie with an $800 jacket.

And thanks for the pic, the United Sheeplined contract was the other one I was seriously considering. It's a great looking jacket.

fedoralover

FL, what i'm referring to there is Hot Water Treatment. In this case the jacket is one of John's very early prototypes so it wasn't the cost of a production type so I'm not so precious with it. Despite this it is my favourite still and it's given me the chance to experiment a little. The sleeves were slightly too short for me so I immersed the leather and lining of the sleeves only (not including the cuffs) in hot water until they were thoroughly wet, then attached light weights to each cuff just above the knits and put the jacket on a heavily padded hanger for a few days until it had fully dried. I checked it periodically to make sure it wasn't being overly stretched but after about 3 days it was complete and the sleeves had honestly extended about an inch whislt the body had basically kept the shape but loosened a little.

WRT the colour of the leather this hide appears to be a type of oil pull and i've noticed that when the leather is thoroughly wet and worn when it dries it has large areas of lighter colour. I don't know whether this happens if rained on as i't only happened after it had hot water applied. When it's midly heated it seems to bring the oil back to the surface returning the original patina. This can be easily overdone I have found but rubbing or mashing it with your hands will bring back the original look- this was a tip John passed on many months ago. So, if you want to change your look from neat and sharp to thoroughly 65 year old battleworn you can and you can always go back! I've done it twice now and it's been fine both times- if it happens again i'll post some shots.

Paul, I know the original Bronco- it was mine originally remember?

 

[Fletch]

Fletch, how about some frontal pic's.

I'll give it a try as daylight permits.

Paul, I know the original Bronco- it was mine originally remember?

Oh that's you, Andrew! I didn't recognize the handle.

You'll appreciate this, then: the United has a more matte look than the Bronco, and I think it's due to the lack of clearcoat or lacquer. John wrote me that he sometimes lacquers the Bonanza cow and sometimes doesn't. The United is also more susceptible to changing shade when wet or dried, altho the Bronco did it too as the lacquer was not water repellent.

 

[Vintage Betty]

VLJ = Vintage Leather Jackets, a forum for collectors.

Thank you!

Original jackets are often quite small, but I would bet that most of us would prefer to have one if we could. Mr. Chapman's jackets seem to be the closest thing made yet.

Why would you prefer a vintage jacket?

VB

 

[cheaterome]

Why would one prefer a vintage jacket????


Hmmmmmm.... loaded question.

As a vintage clothing collector, a vintage jacket can or cannot have that history attached to it and a repro even Johns as spectacular as they... are still repro's.

Even if they are the best .. and it's true they are !!! In my Humble opinion.

I have had more originals and currently own only 3 originals and over a dozen repros currently from various MFR's.

I find the Roughwear I got from John on my back the most , soon with art!

Even though as money permits the originals seem to find there way back into the collection.... because they are originals and I am a smaller size 40/ 42 they are easy to find and affordable relatively speaking..



Jerome

 

[Smithy]

It's interesting to see how John's A-2s have raised the bar that much more for repro A-2s.

Be interesting to see if people like Aero or Eastman change their game to try and match what he's doing.

I have one of his new 16160 contracts in the sights.

 

[scotrace]

A vintage jacket will look more rugged, and it has the priceless bonus of having possibly/probably been in the air, in battle. It has history.

I'm trying to get my hands on one I know of that is in all but rotted condition, in a size that would never fit, but that thing saw action.

 

[fishmeok]

My biggest issue with WWII vintage jackets is that they HAVE seen action- many of them, particularily if they have provenance are essentially artifacts that need to be preserved. I feel nervous enough wearing my very common but still 40 year old mid-60's G-1.
That's the big advantage to repros for me- you can actually WEAR them, and beat them up the way they were intended to be. here's a pic of me and my Goodwear Dubow in Brussels three weeks ago (note the bags under my eyes-jetlag really got to me this trip), the jacket was only off my back when I slept-and on two occasions not even then...
Cheers
Mark

 

[SamReu]

Spokes Man

What strikes me most about these A-2 conversations is how Chapman's entry into the market has created a big ripple among flight-jacket fans. A field dominated by Eastman, Aero, LW, et al., has had to make room for a newcomer.

Admittedly, Good Wear is small. But if customer comment means anything, that may change. I just hope the quality does not.

I have one of those GW's, as most of you guys probably know already. It is superb.

 

[aswatland]

I own the Doniger featured on the GW website. It is an awesome repro and is amazingly similar to my original Doniger. John is a master craftsman and deserves all the critical acclaim he has received! I spoke to Gary Eastman last month about Good Wear jackets and he said volume makers are unlikely to produce such accurate repros as John because of the profit margin. I guess ELC would have to significantly increase their costs were they to produce jackets of John's standard of authenticity.

As to original A2s, I own 9, all size 42 or 44 and I wear them from time to time in rotation. They are not daily wearers as I don't want to damage them. This is where my Good Wear is so useful!

 

[fedoralover]

Another example!!

I know this thread is getting long and I suppose repetitive, but the more I look at originals and the high end repro vendors offerings that are "supposed" to duplicate them, the more I find myself thinking "we've been getting shafted!" Paying top dollar for A-2 replica's that in some cases don't even come close to the originals seems crazy. But until recently I suppose there wasn't much choice. Here's another prime example.

First an original Dubow.

Next a well known high price vendor who makes a Dubow. Look at the pocket spacing?? Doesn't even come close.

Next is a Goodwear Dubow. Like the saying goes, a pic is worth a thousand words. It just seems they ought to just say, we are not making A-2 replica's, we're making "our version" of what "we" would have made "if" we had an original contract.

fedoralover