Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

New (to me) Himel Bros/Goodwear Californian

bretron

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,519
Location
NW
Just don't go with the low ball bid;) my guess is a reputable leather jacket specialist/tailor wouldn't touch the cuffs apart form temporarily removing them to trim up the sleeve. I've seen bad things happen when sleeves are altered by JUST altering the cuff
 
Messages
16,842
I may have the sleeves shortened, but am wondering how that would work with the cuff cinches. Might throw off the proportions and/or functionality of the cinches. I'll think about it. I may also just live with them the way they are...

You're right...

Leave them. The sleeves might pick up a few more creases anyway so it will be good. :)
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
I might go against the grain here, but to me this jacket is a size too large...
It doesn't fit you badly, but i think you would have a much nice/neater fit in a size 42.
The stomach area isn't bad, but the back and shoulders are too large, and the sleeves appear very baggy.

I know it's a personal thing, and some people like a slightly oversized fit, but IMO you would look much better in a size smaller.

Regarding the sleeves, in my experience shrinkage will never make up for that much extra length.
With very thick leather (aero styl FQHH) you might lose an inch or so, but with thinner leather like Shinki i don't see it happening, at least it hasn't on any of my jackets.

Regarding length, i think body length is good and doesn't need adding, and i would remove 1" to 2" from the sleeves.
 

Gav

Practically Family
Messages
528
Location
UK
I agree with Carlos. Certainly would need sleeves shortened. I couldn't live with them that long if it were me.
 
Messages
16,842
The sleeves could be shortened by moving the whole panel with the cuff straps up. That way neither the proportion nor the functionality of the cuffs would be compromised. I think...
 
Messages
16,842
Wrote to John Chapman at Goodwear and got some very good, concrete advice on how the cuff alterations should be done, and who I might send it to in order to get them done. What a nice guy he is...

I'm genuinely curious - how?
 
Messages
16,842
I'd be tempted to remove the arms, shorten them, and then replace.

The arms tend to taper straight away so then they would have to open and restitch the front and back panel as well in order to avoid bunching. At least that's what I have been told...
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
The arms tend to taper straight away so then they would have to open and restitch the front and back panel as well in order to avoid bunching. At least that's what I have been told...

That's the way it was done on the two jackets i had altered.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
Lina, your arms need to grow another 1 1/2 to 2 inches to reach my length. :D Right now your new Himel Ventura probably would fit me better than you. ;)
 

lina

One Too Many
Messages
1,054
Location
Washington DC
I'm genuinely curious - how?

"The trick to make a sleeve like that shorter is this:

* open both long seams of the sleeve about ten inches
* remove cuffs
* cut main sleeve panels down 1.5"
* taper sleeves by trimming two sleeve panels to have the same end width as when longer
* attach cuffs
* close up seams and lining ends

It's not extremely hard, nor it is really easy, as un-doing the seam sewing is really the hardest part, and will take the most time. My stitching is quite harsh and tight, and takes a long time to de-thread, but once that's done, the rest is much easier."
 

lina

One Too Many
Messages
1,054
Location
Washington DC
Lina, your arms need to grow another 1 1/2 to 2 inches to reach my length. :D Right now your new Himel Ventura probably would fit me better than you. ;)

No doubt! I am surprised at how long they are making the sleeves on these. I guess they are basically custom making them for you..!
 
Messages
16,842
"The trick to make a sleeve like that shorter is this:

* open both long seams of the sleeve about ten inches
* remove cuffs
* cut main sleeve panels down 1.5"
* taper sleeves by trimming two sleeve panels to have the same end width as when longer
* attach cuffs
* close up seams and lining ends

It's not extremely hard, nor it is really easy, as un-doing the seam sewing is really the hardest part, and will take the most time. My stitching is quite harsh and tight, and takes a long time to de-thread, but once that's done, the rest is much easier."

Exactly what I thought. Thanks, man!
 

pauleway

Practically Family
Messages
655
Location
Western NY
Wrote to John Chapman at Goodwear and got some very good, concrete advice on how the cuff alterations should be done, and who I might send it to in order to get them done. What a nice guy he is...

My guess is he recommended Dena at Greatleather, she just did alterations on two of my jackets and they turned out perfect!;)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,254
Messages
3,077,383
Members
54,183
Latest member
UrbanGraveDave
Top