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New Jacket Simmons Bilt Oakland Review

AllanP

Familiar Face
Messages
82
So I thought I would start a new thread by itself for this new (and first) purchase. So this is a SB Oakland in Chocolate Shinki, size 40, Olive Stitching, Standard Tartan Lining.

I caught the leather jacket bug late last year when I discovered this forum researching B3 jackets. I have read a ton of old threads in the past couple of months and finally decided to pull the trigger when I pm'd Ton, who gave me a lot of advice.

I was originally going to order Aero Bootlegger or SB Detroit in Horween steer or horsehide, but I eventually changed my mind. First because I bought a wallet made out of Horween CXL and I thought it was really stiff and heavy and I just wasn't sure if I was ready for something that heavy. The samples I received of the Horween steer also confirmed how thick it was. The SB Oakland caught my eye because I was really drawn towards the D pocket, so I made a last second change when I ordered.

Dealing with SB was very smooth, Debs was really patient and answered all of my 20 something emails back and forth. The jacket itself was finished in less than 3 weeks I believe, and shipped the day the payment went through, and I received it here in Toronto Canada after a long weekend. The customer service was superb and I really have nothing to complain about. Debs will answer your email after a day or sometimes two depending how busy they are, which to some people would considered a bit slow, but I was not in any kind of rush.

As for sizing and specs, I was told to measure myself, and then measure a favorite jacket of mine and send them the specs. I never knew how difficult it was to measure shoulder width tbh, I ended up not sending them any shoulder specs because depending on who's measuring and how you position your jacket it comes out different every time. So I sent them the pit to pit of my jacket, and my chest size, and my desired sleeves and back length and they chose size 40 for me. I was pretty iffy about sizing, because I have never bought a piece of clothing without trying it on in store.

Regarding the actual jacket, as you saw from the pictures from the other thread, I was very impressed. The construction is spot on, and they nailed my back and sleeve lengths perfectly. The leather is the perfect mid weight leather I desire and the stiffness I desire. I think the overall weight is 3kg (labeled on the package) and the jacket does not stand on its own when new like some of the CXL jackets I've seen on the forums. The shinki has a shiny coat, but you can definitely see the grain clearly. It is less waxy and more grainy than the RMC Buco I handled once in store while I was in Japan. I am obviously no expert on leather, but I think it's a safe leather for first time buyers in terms of weight and stiffness.

So enough babbling and here are some pictures I took. I didn't manage to take any good pics outside because it was hot out this weekend and I was sweating just wearing it in the sun. I personally think the fit feels spot on. I know some people like it looser so they can wear a sweater underneath, but I prefer just a t shirt or a thinner shirt.

The only flaw I saw was that the bottom of the jacket is not flush when it is zipped, I think this might bother some people, but I don't wear jackets zipped up so I don't really mind it, but you can definitely feel it when you zip the jacket and you can see it clearly in the picture.

Edit*, I'm around 6'1 and 180 pounds, the back length and Sleeves are both 25 inches (I have short arms for my height)
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zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
Shanghai
I reckon it looks good. Other images of the Oakland show similar 'unevenness' at the jacket bottom when zipped; as I don't know anything about this style I don't know if it's normal or not. But, apart from that (if it's a problem), the colour and the back details are really impressive.
 

Mark

Practically Family
Messages
638
Location
UK
Looks great on you, fit looks good, especially unzipped. I have never owned a Shinki leather but looks beautiful. Mid weight is the way to go i think. I own Highwayman in FQHH, she is a beauty but a real effort to put on some times. Great review/write-up and pics too. Enjoy your new jacket.
 

SpeedRcrX

One Too Many
Messages
1,116
Location
France
Nice jacket!

When it's zipped up I find it a little on the short side but overall it's a really good fit.

Congrats!
 
Messages
17,476
Location
Chicago
Man this is just beautiful!! I think the fit is spot on perfect! I love this pattern. It's a subtle way of handling the D pocket and it blends so smoothly into the rest of the jacket. Congrats on an outstanding jacket!
 
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jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,313
Location
Germany
I love the leather color, brown in the close up, bit reddish in the other pictures. Great stuff! Fit is very good too, don't think it's too shiort, I'm guessing OP is wearing fairly low-waisted jeans. The new SB label looks great, too, much more understated than the old massive thing.
 

01flhr

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
That length looks great. You have to remember that motorcycle jackets need to fit while on the bike. The best way to look at it is to sit down so your hips are at 90° and see where it sits. The purpose of being short is so the front isnt pushed up into your face while sitting.
 

Hammerklavier

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
Location
San antonio
That's a really nice jacket! Somehow I got impression that SB jacket has more weight than most Aero.
About unevenness of botton, I will contact them for exchange or return, such a defection is not expecting in this high price garment.
 
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Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
Nice colour, but jacket is out of balance at the bottom by half-an-inch by my reckoning. You might want to have word with them about that, cos it's not good QC.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
Shanghai
Most pics I can find online of this style seem to be slightly off-balance in the front-facing. May not be an error- anyone know?
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,879
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
Most pics I can find online of this style seem to be slightly off-balance in the front-facing. May not be an error- anyone know?

well, if you look at their website you acn see indeed a small off-balance but of order of magnitude less compared to that of the OP.
Ofcourse if the OP does not mind and is happy with the fit then it's ok, it looks a really nice jacket.
 

AllanP

Familiar Face
Messages
82
Thanks guys for the kind words. Yeah I looked around online, there's some kinda of off balance in almost all jackets, including jackets posted by members of TFL. This is definitely an error imo. I wonder why they haven't correct it in their patterns.

either way I will talk to them about it and see what happens, I'm not asking for a return that's for sure, I don't think it's worth my time to deal with shipping and waiting to fix something I have almost no problem with. It's not something that's important I look for in a jacket.

As for the length, I am actually satisfied with it, that's the length I requested because I mirrored it off of one of my favorite denim jackets.
I think the picture is because that particular pair of jeans I have, it hangs pretty low and I was kinda pulling it down a bit in the photo.
 

Superfluous

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,995
Location
Missing in action
IMHO, the misalignment at the bottom is an eye-catching defect and obviously unacceptable. I would definitely demand a replacement jacket. While you are at it, you *might* consider narrower shoulders -- narrower shoulders should eliminate some of the pulling of the leather in the upper chest.
 

01flhr

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
I would imagine that moving the zipper would fix the misalignment in the front. My Ll is dead on as near as i can tell

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320A using Tapatalk
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,403
That misalignment at the bottom is completely unacceptable. The pocket stitching is fairly shoddy as well, but the alignment is the real issue. I would send it back.
 

AllanP

Familiar Face
Messages
82
ehh, I don't know but I will email them and see what they say. I don't want to put work into something that will get me less in return, I hate dealing with customs, and shipping.
 
Messages
16,798
Well, AllanP, there you have it. I still say that it's an ace jacket. The misalignment, I am absolutely convinced, is partly due to the perspective and mostly 'cause the leather is a bit thicker at the left side/hem, which is perfectly normal thing to happen on these heavyweight, natural hides and any inconsistency will disappear after a few months of wear once everything evens out. The fit is great, length is perfect and I think it really looks good on you but if you feel this is a glaring error that warrants a replacement, by all means, contact SB and have it done.

I wouldn't.

I'm just gonna add that the jacket is noticeably beautifully stitched, by the way. The reinforced sides of the cigarette pockets are exactly how it's done. This is gonna look insane after a month or two.
 

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