New G1 (info please)

[PerryJ]

greetings all,
I sold the San Diego Leather G1 I got a few weeks ago. Tonight I bought another G1 (since I'm a pilot I wanted a contractor G1) so I snagged this Ralph Edwards G1 on the "bay". From the label it looks like a 1984?

Also were RE jackets good ones?

When did RE stop the contract G1's?
Also would it be goat or cow?

And what's the collar, synthetic?

When did the switch from cow/goat? And Moulton/synthetic??

Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks guys, these photos are from the listing, I'll post more when it arrives.

(Loving the forums and have read about all the G1 threads I could find haha)

 

[PerryJ]

Another pic

 

[Hypoxic]

I sold the San Diego Leather G1 I got a few weeks ago.

A smart move on your behalf.

 

[thor]

Nice G-1 and very good idea to pick up an actual military issue jacket. I can answer some of your questions:
The label in fact does state that your jacket was manufactured in 1984 (one of the coolest things about these Navy jackets is the year of manufacture on the nomenclature/size tag).
The Navy switched to synthetic collars from mouton around 1968/69.
There were some (not all) G-1's made with steerhide in the mid 1970's that had a pressed or embossed pseudo-goatskin grain. These jackets were made for only afew years and are usually heavier weight than regular goatskin. Now G-1 jackets are once again goatskin.
Ralph Edwards was a menswear company that made good quality garments and had Navy G-1 contracts for many years. I have an early 1960's Ralph Edwards G-1 and the materials and workmanship are excellent.
Good luck with the new jacket!

 

[PerryJ]

Thanks Thor great info!
I'll post better pics when it arrives.

 

[Peacoat]

I agree with what Thor said. Here are some specifics as to the dates, etc. Mouton collars were discontinued about half way through the D-series jackets in 1969. So later D-series G-1s have Dynal collars. Beginning with the E-series jackets, G-1 shells could be made from embossed cowhide. Not every contractor immediately made the switch and some manufacturers seem to have used both goat and cow during this period. So, to be assured of getting goatskin in the vintage jackets, buy D-series or older. Only the E-series jackets will include cowhide examples. As Thor said, the G-1s are now made of goatskin. Your jacket is an E series from 1984, so I think it will be goat.

 

[Marv]

I have a D series Brill Bros from 1971 which is right at the change over period, really nice goatskin shell, Dynal collar with a Conmar slider/puller and Scovill zipper box stopper.

A really great jacket and ideal daily wearer all for around $150 I think.

 

[Marv]

Also, I have a Ralph Edwards from 1977 which has the Dynal collar and is cowhide all the way, super squeeky

 

[Peacoat]

Also, I have a Ralph Edwards from 1977 which has the Dynal collar and is cowhide all the way, super squeeky

What causes the squeak is the threads rubbing against the hide. Some have recommended putting baby powder in the seams. I use a conditioner such as Lexol, Pecard or one of the German conditioners of a consistency similar to Pecard. Just rub it in the seams. Should last a year or so.

 

[PerryJ]

My RE is out for delivery today, what's the best way to tell if its cow/goat?

I'll post pics this afternoon.

 

[Atticus Finch]

My RE is out for delivery today, what's the best way to tell if its cow/goat?

I'll post pics this afternoon.

Embossed cowhide looks very much like goat when it's new. But, though it's been made to resemble goatskin, it's still cowhide. So as the jacket ages, the coarse cowhide grain usually becomes apparent, especially in areas of the jacket that are continually flexed. Look at the elbows, the backs of the shoulders and above the waistband. If the goatskin "pebbles" have become less pronounced and the grain of the leather has started to resemble steer or horse...the jacket is cowhide.

And some G-1s...like my 1976 Imperial Leather...are such rank cowhide, they'll occasionally moo at you.

AF

 

[Peacoat]

My RE is out for delivery today, what's the best way to tell if its cow/goat?

I'll post pics this afternoon.

The simplest way to tell if it is goat is to wear it for ten years. If it shows no signs of breaking in or no patina developing, it is goat. If within 3 months it shows signs such as noted by Atticus above, it is cow. I can usually tell immediately by the hand and the drape of the leather, but there is no way I can explain that.

 

[Fonzie]

Sorry OP for hijacking your post, but any if you gentlemen could help me identify (date) my G-1 and know if it's goat or cow? Thanks in advance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fonzie]

Mine is super noisy (almost annoying) by the way, but the fit is great and very comfortable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PerryJ]

1974, see the 74 in the middle of the DSA number, good looking jacket !

Buy you some pecards leather dressing for it. ;-)

 

[Fonzie]

1974, see the 74 in the middle of the DSA number, good looking jacket !

Buy you some pecards leather dressing for it. ;-)

Great, thanks! I'll get the product you mention and give it a go.
Is it cow or goat hide?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marv]

Your jacket is from 1974 and is most definately cowhide as you can tell from the creasing of the leather

 

[Fonzie]

Awesome, thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PerryJ]

Looks like cow to me but I'm new to this game. Goat is more "pebbley" looking.

Pecards is what museum use and you find it highly recommmeded here.

 

[Peacoat]

Mine is super noisy (almost annoying) by the way, but the fit is great and very comfortable.

In post #9 above I gave a suggestion for eliminating the squeak. It has always worked for me.