Mystery solved! Bogart's weird suit in "The Big Sleep"

[Marc Chevalier]

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Back in 2004, Humphrey Bogart's single-breasted suit from The Big Sleep was sold at auction. The original maker's label had been removed.


Matt Deckard pointed out that the suit had its boutonniere hole on the right lapel instead of the left. A strange detail. (See photo below.)


Well, the mystery is solved. Around the time of the auction, I came across a 1936 magazine article by James Oviatt, the founder of Oviatt's haberdashery in Los Angeles. Mr. Oviatt explained that he disliked the "imbalance" of a pocket handkerchief and boutonniere flower worn on a jacket's left side, while nothing was worn on the right side. To restore balance, Mr. Oviatt announced that, from now on, his suit jackets and sportcoats would be made with their boutonniere hole on the right lapel.


After several years of searching, I have not found evidence that any other manufacturer or tailor made righthand boutonniere holes.


Conclusion? Bogart's Big Sleep suit is an Oviatt's piece, most probably from the mid to late 1930s. (By 1940, the haberdashery no longer added this quirky detail to its ready-made clothes.)

 

[mike]

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To restore balance, Mr. Oviatt announced that, from now on, his suit jackets and sportcoats would be made with their boutonniere hole on the right lapel.

Fascinating! I wonder why they reverted back. Did it not catch on? Was there an internal battle within the Oviatt camp to buck the trend that eventually gained larger support? Do we need to see the documentary for all the juicy details?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Fascinating! I wonder why they reverted back. Did it not catch on? Was there an internal battle within the Oviatt camp to buck the trend that eventually gained larger support? Do we need to see the documentary for all the juicy details?

With their off-the-rack suits, they reverted back. For their made-to-measure and custom bespoke suits, the option was still offered (and encouraged!) Some customers compromised and had boutonniere holes made on both lapels:

For the rest of his life, James Oviatt wore his boutonniere flower on the righthand lapel.

 

[thunderw21]

Interesting, the history of all the little details.

A while ago I remember reading on this site that for a short time during the '30s there was a trend of having buttonholes on both lapels or just one on the right lapel of SB jackets. Did that refer to Oviatt specifically since you've found no other references during your research of others using right handed buttonholes?
I was under the (perhaps wrong) impression that it was a little more wide spread than just Oviatt.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Did that refer to Oviatt specifically ...?

Yes. In the 1936 article, Mr. Oviatt said that the righthand boutonniere hole was his own invention for single-breasted jackets. Even so, I did dig around to see if any other clothiers were doing the same thing at the same time. I came up emptyhanded.

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[Nighthawk]

Did Oviatt make tuxedo jackets? And, if so, with the hole on the right?

NH

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Did Oviatt make tuxedo jackets? And, if so, with the hole on the right?

He did make tuxedo jackets, though I've never seen an Oviatt's one from the '30s. I'm waiting for an old newspaper photo to arrive which shows James Oviatt wearing an evening tailcoat in 1952. The picture clearly shows that there is only one boutonniere hole, and it's on the righthand side. I'll post the photo when it's in my hands.



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[avedwards]

If I recall correctly Bogart had three suits like this in The Big Sleep didn't he? One which could be navy or grey, one in a light colour and one in what could be charcoal grey. All two button with the buttonhole on the right lapel. The only other suit he wears in the film is a pinstripe DB suit, with two buttonholes.

I know, I observe his wardrobe far too much.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

An ad from April 1936. Note the righthand boutonniere.

 

[filfoster]

Festivus for the rest of us...

Now will Mr. Magnoli add any of these Big Sleep suits with the right side buttonhole, to his repertoire?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

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Another advertisement from 1936. This one appeared in Esquire magazine. Again, notice where the boutonniere hole is?

 

[cptjeff]

Neat little bit of history. Can't say I like that little quirk though, the whole point was that it was originally a functional buttonhole to roll the lapel over and button the jacket all the way up. I had a Gap blazer that did that (functional cuffs too), and it was wonderful on a windy day.

If I was getting a custom suit, I would rather have the neat detail of the functional collar and lapel then a buttonhole that exists only to hold a flower, and advertises the fact that it has no functional use.

However, instead of switching the buttonhole, what about switching the pocket? That could be a neat visual trademark.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

However, instead of switching the buttonhole, what about switching the pocket? That could be a neat visual trademark.

True, but perhaps it would have been too radical for his customers to accept.


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[Marc Chevalier]

... the whole point was that it was originally a functional buttonhole to roll the lapel over and button the jacket all the way up.

Interesting that you mention it. James Oviatt actually refers to this in the 1936 article: he claims that it's an outmoded detail from, and I quote, "the horse and buggy days."


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[Matt Deckard]

I actually like mine to be functional. Horse and Buggy days ay? Isn't Oviatt from those days as well?

Awesome newspaper clipping!

I've seen and photographed that Big Sleep suit of Bogart's in person. I also know the owner. The darn jacket nearly fit me...

 

[chanteuseCarey]

Fabulous TIE Mr. Oviatt is wearing here, wish we knew what colors it had...

With their off-the-rack suits, they reverted back. For their made-to-measure and custom bespoke suits, the option was still offered (and encouraged!) Some customers compromised and had boutonniere holes made on both lapels:for the rest of his life, James Oviatt wore his boutonniere flower on the righthand lapel.

 

[Matt Deckard]

And nowadays I so often get chastised for the tiny knots.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

And nowadays I so often get chastised for the tiny knots.

I wouldn't worry about that too much. Dress to impress yourself first. Then others, if you feel like it.

 

[Richard Warren]

Niece piece of detective work indeed.

 

[Feraud]

Very interesting. Just when you think things are getting quiet at the Lounge Marc steps up and knocks one out of the park.
Nice one Marc!

.Mr. Oviatt explained that he disliked the "imbalance" of a pocket handkerchief and boutonniere flower worn on a jacket's left side, while nothing was worn on the right side. To restore balance, Mr. Oviatt announced that, from now on, his suit jackets and sportcoats would be made with their boutonniere hole on the right lapel.

It makes sense to think about it..