Mystery Jacket--Need Help Identifying

[Claybertrand]

Appalachian
Nice vintage jacket here!! I wonder if this company is the same or related to Appalachian Leather Cleaners in Tullahoma Tennessee??? That is who Taylor Leatherwear recommends for cleaning and conditioning of their products.

 

[tmitchell59]

1930s Police jacket

 

[tmitchell59]

Yes the same company. They made some jackets for Sears under the Oakbrook/Fieldmaster label.

 

[Claybertrand]

1930s Police Jacket
This is a well preserved California made jacket. Interesting use of the corduroy around the neck which is unique. Also of note here: No Epaulets. It clearly has a badge mount area but no are for ranking badges. Could be a from a small City department that wouldn't have a huge police force with ranks. Certainly appears to be Moto style with the leather strung side adjusters. Looks to be a great shape.

Any details apparent as to the kind of Main Zippers either of these jackets have???

Thanks for the pics.......You're getting ALL your pics posted now!!!!!!

 

[tmitchell59]

Ralphs-Pugh police jacket

 

[Claybertrand]

1930s Police jacket

Damn!!!! That's a goodie as well!!!! AMAZING condition for the age!!!! 30s!?!?!?!!?!?!?!? I wonder if this belonged to a lazy cop back in the day who just didn't like to get too dirty!?!?!?

1930s Police jacket

 

[Claybertrand]

That does sound interesting! Actually sounds like me!

Your collection puts mine to shame!!!!!!! These are some REAL VINTAGE pieces. Very impressive. I'm not a big guy, but I still can't find these older jackets in my size AT ALL. Even an early 60s Schott I have is a size 48 and I can't even zip it up. I have a Schott Perfecto Cafe Racer size 50 that fits ok....... Cafe Racers are a snug fit by design though. Most of my police jackets are 60s-70s with a couple of exceptions.

 

[tmitchell59]

Fashion leather

Seattle Woolen

 

[tmitchell59]

I wonder if this belonged to a lazy cop back in the day who just didn't like to get too dirty!?!?!?

Police jackets tend to be in better condition. They could not go out in rough looking Uniform jackets, so they got retired before they wore out. my theory

 

[tmitchell59]

Your collection puts mine to shame!!!!!!! These are some REAL VINTAGE pieces. Very impressive. I'm not a big guy, but I still can't find these older jackets in my size AT ALL. Even an early 60s Schott I have is a size 48 and I can't even zip it up. I have a Schott Perfecto Cafe Racer size 50 that fits ok....... Cafe Racers are a snug fit by design though. Most of my police jackets are 60s-70s with a couple of exceptions.

Depending on the time of year I can wear most of these jackets. Other words, when I'm a bit trimmer. The Seattle jacket is most interesting. I have two other jackets from this company. It is actually a size 46!. I need to trim my waist to get it on, but upper body it is a 46. Probably custom made size with a very small waist.

I may be able to help with that zipper issue. If you think pull would fix it that may be possible. I will ask a friend if he has a pull that would work on the zipper. I also have a Crown zipper that may work.

 

[Gamma68]

I have a couple of Detroit Metropolitan Police Jackets made by a company now defunct that used to be across the street from the Police Department HQ in Detroit I understand and used to make their jackets.

Not to hijack this thread, but I'm from Detroit and would love to see your examples of Detroit Police jackets.

 

[Claybertrand]

I wonder if this belonged to a lazy cop back in the day who just didn't like to get too dirty!?!?!?

Police jackets tend to be in better condition. They could not go out in rough looking Uniform jackets, so they got retired before they wore out. my theory

Your Theory has gotta be correct. Just like cops don't drive dirty cars, Police jackets are UNIFORMS so they have to represent properly. Also, the department may be paying for or subsidizing new jackets so they would certainly not be running their gear into the ground the way a civlian

Not to hijack this thread, but I'm from Detroit and would love to see your examples of Detroit Police jackets.

Gamma68, I have 3 Detroit Metro Jackets. 2 are in storage and one I lent to my brother. I will try to get some pics up when I can. The one I lent to my brother is really too small for me so I am trying to let him test wear it to see if he likes it.

As I recall, I went round and round trying to find this manufacturer. I believe it says on the label for the maker something like, "...Across the Street from Detroit Metro Police Dept." or something like that. I will work on getting some pics at least of that jacket for you. I may be able to find the link to the eBay purchase for one if I can't post pics immediately.

As an aside, do you have an opinion of Brooks Jackets??? I understand they are from Detroit and I have a cafe racer as well as a superb old Black & Gold Labeled civilian bomber in Camel color from them. The bomber in particular is cool although not really a unique design as bomber styles were ALL THE RAGE for quite awhile.

 

[Claybertrand]

Depending on the time of year I can wear most of these jackets. Other words, when I'm a bit trimmer. The Seattle jacket is most interesting. I have two other jackets from this company. It is actually a size 46!. I need to trim my waist to get it on, but upper body it is a 46. Probably custom made size with a very small waist.

I may be able to help with that zipper issue. If you think pull would fix it that may be possible. I will ask a friend if he has a pull that would work on the zipper. I also have a Crown zipper that may work.

I know what you mean about depending on the time of year!!!!! Lmao!!!! In California, I have but a small window to really wear leather jackets and that window generally falls into the wrong time of year (i.e. the I JUST ATE HOLIDAY COOKIES FOR A MONTH time of year....) Lol.... For me, its mainly the fact that the jackets are short by design compared to modern patterns. So they don't look right unless I'm trim, I tuck in my shirt, and have a nice belt on. I learned long ago to try to go by the LAID FLAT measurements (Pit to Pit, Shoulder to Shoulder, Shoulder to Cuff, Base of Collar to Bottom of Rear). The problem is that many sellers don't measure correctly or they fudge the numbers sometimes which makes spending big money for vintage leather jackets online kind of dicey. Part of the reason for my fairly large collection is that some of them don't fit me. I really should post some for sale or trade here in the Lounge.

Regarding the Crown Zipper issue, I don't believe I can fix it with a Crown pull as the tape itself is severed near the base of the zipper on both sides. I believe I may need to go the Whole Replacement route. That said, any information or sourcing you can provide would be greatly appreciated. My Crown zipper has the Chevron teeth design with a 23" length. I do believe they can be shortened too if needed.

Thanks for all your input and help!!!!!

 

[Gamma68]

Your Theory has gotta be correct. Just like cops don't drive dirty cars, Police jackets are UNIFORMS so they have to represent properly. Also, the department may be paying for or subsidizing new jackets so they would certainly not be running their gear into the ground the way a civlian


Gamma68, I have 3 Detroit Metro Jackets. 2 are in storage and one I lent to my brother. I will try to get some pics up when I can. The one I lent to my brother is really too small for me so I am trying to let him test wear it to see if he likes it.

As I recall, I went round and round trying to find this manufacturer. I believe it says on the label for the maker something like, "...Across the Street from Detroit Metro Police Dept." or something like that. I will work on getting some pics at least of that jacket for you. I may be able to find the link to the eBay purchase for one if I can't post pics immediately.

As an aside, do you have an opinion of Brooks Jackets??? I understand they are from Detroit and I have a cafe racer as well as a superb old Black & Gold Labeled civilian bomber in Camel color from them. The bomber in particular is cool although not really a unique design as bomber styles were ALL THE RAGE for quite awhile.

Thanks for offering to post whatever pics you have or can find of your Detroit Police jackets.

There are a few really good threads here about Brooks cafe racers. The older ones with the “gold label” are highly regarded. Classic design, decent leather. I’ve got a black one that I treasure. I live just down the road from Brooks’ last facility in the Detroit area.

 

[Claybertrand]

Thanks for offering to post whatever pics you have or can find of your Detroit Police jackets.

There are a few really good threads here about Brooks cafe racers. The older ones with the “gold label” are highly regarded. Classic design, decent leather. I’ve got a black one that I treasure. I live just down the road from Brooks’ last facility in the Detroit area.

I am trying to get a hold of my brother to get you some pics but he isn't home at the moment. Regarding the Brooks labels, I have noticed that the ""Gold Label" is sought after and fetches a price premium. The Bomber style jacket I have has this label. Brooks is still around but now they are outta Massachusetts. Not the same

 

[tmitchell59]

Fedora Lounge zipper thread

 

[Monitor]

Ralphs-Pugh police jacket

Jeez, this one... Perfection. But it's also a great example of the fact that it's impossible to tell the difference between Horsehide and Steerhide.

 

[Claybertrand]

Fedora Lounge zipper thread

Man, thanks for posting that FL Zipper thread! I have done a lot of research on Zippers and particularly Crowns. The FL Thread states that my Crown is NOT a Chevron design but the post Chevron "Two Way" design with symmetrical teeth that was introduced in Civilian use Post War. So I am looking to repair or replace a Crown Two Way.

Great detailed information. I had always seen this type of Crown listed as a Chevron.

I appreciate the heads up.

 

[tmitchell59]

I'm pretty sure it's Taubers.

Check this out:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...bers-horsehide-moto-jacket-size-46-200.94892/

Not the exact same model but the chances that the two different companies made such similar jackets are very slim. Virtually every single detail, down to the angle of the pockets, is the same. Stitching & construction is identical. Inside pockets, the two snaps near the main zip, not to mention the cuffs...

I'd dare guess that the two jackets were made from the same pattern, with the one ITT possibly being a civilian version of the Police jacket.

You have a fine eye for detail, when you see something it is worth looking at. Taubers came to mind for me with the lining, not the jacket shell. The shell just didn't remind me of a Taubers. It did remind me of the Uniform jacket I posted. So I kinda got lost. The zippers confuse me. The Chevron type Crown ended mid 1940s. The tear drop Talons are early 60s. Taubers were in business early 40s. Perhaps an early Taubers with original Crown zipper, re-lined by Taubers with the tear drop Talon zipper, then tear drop pulls added to existing zips? or all exterior pocket zips added when re-lined?

It has the square look of my police jacket, pretty standard look for these jackets. I would think Taubers would have made what ever you wanted custom.

 

[tmitchell59]

@Monitor this is the Taubers you were referencing.