My leather jacket database.

[Carlos840]

For a while i have been wanting to photograph and measure all my jackets, just to see if i could learn something from the numbers and how they really influence fit relatively speaking.
Since this is a subject that comes up pretty often, i thought i might as well share it here in case it can help anyone else.
I also wanted to take pictures of all the different leathers i have in the same light conditions, as a way for others to be able to compare them easily.
So here it is, all my jackets, in the order i acquired them, with all the info for each of them.
Just for info, i am 6'2" (188cm) 175 lbs (80kg), 41" chest, 33" waist.
The jeans i am wearing are Iron Heart 634S-14 W32 L36, front rise is 11", back rise is 15.5".

Schott 644, size 44, Deluxe Steerhide, tailored to fit, 2012:

Pit to pit: 23.5”
Back length: 25.5”
Front length: 22”
Bottom hem: 21”
Shoulders: 20”
Arms length: 25”

Lewis Leathers 551, size 42, cowhide, 2013:

Pit to pit: 23”
Back length: 26”
Front length: 21”
Bottom hem: 19.5”
Shoulders: 19.5”
Arms length:26”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/lewis-leathers-dominator-no-551.74729/

Alexander Leathers Cafe Racer, size 42, Warhawk FQHH, 2014:

Pit to pit: 24”
Back length: 26.5
Front length: 22.5
Bottom hem: 20.5”
Shoulders: 19.5”
Arms length: 27.5”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/alexander-leathers-cafe-racer.80054/

DC J-100, size 42, Black Shinki, 2015:

Pit to pit: 23"
Back length: 27”
Front length: 24.5"
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19"
Arms length: 27”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/diamond-clothing-buco-j100-review.83051/

ELMC Californian, size 42L, black Italian HH, 2015:

Pit to pit: 23”
Back length: 25”
Front length: 23.5”
Bottom hem: 21”
Shoulders: 19”
Arms length: 26.5”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/elmc-californian-review.82777/

Aero Bootlegger, size 40, Brown CXLHH, 2016:

Pit to pit: 24.5”
Back length: 26”
Front length: 22”
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19.5"
Arms length:26.5”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-pair-of-aeros.87105/

 

[Carlos840]

Aero Bootlegger, size 40, Black CXLHH, 2016:

Pit to pit: 24.5”
Back length: 26.5”
Front length: 22”
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19"
Arms length:27”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-pair-of-aeros.87105/

Himel Chevalier, size 42, Dark Seal Shinki, 2018:

Pit to pit: 22.5”
Back length: 25.5”
Front length: 22.5”
Bottom hem: 20”
Shoulders: 19”
Arms length: 27”

Old review: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-chevalier-bis.93446/

And then to finish it, the one that started it all, my Schott B3.
I got this when i was around 17, in early 2000. It is a size 48, which was HUGE, but definitely in keeping with the 90s baggy everything spirit!
A few years down the line i realized how huge it was and stopped wearing it for a good 10 years, until i had it tailored to fit 5 years ago. Unfortunately i have worn it maybe twice since then, as it just doesn't get cold enough.

Schott B3, size 48, tailored:

Pit to pit: 25.5”
Back length: 27”
Front length: 23.5”
Bottom hem: 22”
Shoulders: 21.5”
Arms length:26”

Lastly, here is a "colour chart" of all the leathers shown above:

Schott Steer, LL Cow, AL Warhawk, Black Shinki, Black Italian leather, Brown CXLFQHH, Black CXKFQHH, Dark Seal Shinki.

Now, on to the next one...

 

[MET]

Nice contribution. This thread would be a useful reference.

 

[willyto]

The best fit of all of them is the Himel Chevalier hands down. That smaller chest measurement fits you way better than the other jackets apart from the overall fitted look.

Thanks for the extensive pictures and descriptions. That shinki leather looks amazing.

 

[ton312]

Man great jackets Carlos, I have a few favorites in that bunch but you've certainly amassed a healthy collection of nice jackets and great fits!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Very nice collection there!! Nice variety and good to see it's kept your intrest indeed!

May your collection keep expanding as funds & intrest allow.

 

[Carlos840]

The best fit of all of them is the Himel Chevalier hands down. That smaller chest measurement fits you way better than the other jackets apart from the overall fitted look.

Thanks for the extensive pictures and descriptions. That shinki leather looks amazing.

Thanks, i don't think you can attribute the fit to the pit to pit measurement alone.
There is only 0.5" difference between the Chevalier and the LL, ELMC or Buco, and they feel completely different in wear.
I doubt an extra 0.5" or even 1" in the chest of the chevalier would make the overall fit much worst.
I think the overall pattern is far more important than a specific single measurement, and Dave really nailed that chevalier pattern!

Also, the smaller pit to pit works because Shinki is relatively light.
If the chevalier was made of FQHH with the same measurements i don't think it would be as comfortable, and i would have wanted more room. I also cannot wear much underneath the chevalier, whereas i can easily wear a jumper or two underneath most of the other ones.

 

[sweetfights]

Great job.
Thank you for taking the time to do this.
As a reference guide this is so very helpful.
Which we saw more of this.

 

[nick123]

^Likewise. That surely took some time. Thank you. More posts like this in this thread will be extremely useful for other members. The Himel is my fav, but also love your D-pockets.

 

[Harris HTM]

Hate to admit it but I like the AL the most!

 

[red devil]

Thanks for sharing, it's really interesting to see the evolution of the jackets you got. Curious as to what the next one will be

 

[marmalademan]

Not a one out one in kinda guy eh Carlos. But that's cool, they all fit so well.
Sometimes a man needs15 black leather jackets!

 

[seres]

Nice collection! Thanks for posting this info!

 

[TREEMAN]

A collection to be proud of..........

 

[JMax]

Very nice assortment of styles. Killer collection man. That Himel calls to me...

 

[Powerband]

Excellent collection and very useful data and pics. Thanks for a great post!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[navetsea]

great thread Carlos.

 

[Superfluous]

Wonderful collection Carlos!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Really interesting. Particularly for me as you are almost exactly the same size as me. I am five pounds heavier. What is interesting is that your torso might be shorter than mine. If the front of my jacket was 22 inches, it would sit 2 inches above my belt. I wear a higher rise Wrangler cowboy cut.

They all look bloody great on you. Would you say you like your jackets shorter or longer in cut?

 

[Carlos840]

Hate to admit it but I like the AL the most!

Thanks, i actually really like it too. The leather is really nice, probably the closest thing to tea core i have.
Even thought it looks black, the brown really comes through a lot more than it does on black CXL. It is also slightly thicker and more rigid than CXL.

Really interesting. Particularly for me as you are almost exactly the same size as me. I am five pounds heavier. What is interesting is that your torso might be shorter than mine. If the front of my jacket was 22 inches, it would sit 2 inches above my belt. I wear a higher rise Wrangler cowboy cut.

They all look bloody great on you. Would you say you like your jackets shorter or longer in cut?

Glad it can help, not sure about my torso, but 34" legged jeans are always too short for me.
Jacket length, i definitely prefer short. Basically if it covers the belt, but doesn't reach my back pockets i am happy.
The J-100 for example is slightly longer than i like, it gets annoying as it catches on my wallet. 0.5" less would probably sort it out.
I also prefer shorter sleeves compared to what is usually found on the lounge i think.