My first Aero Cafe Racer – last hints before I order?

[Montecristo]

Hello everyone,
let me first say great Forum! I have been lurking around on this site for quite a while now and got a lot of great insights on leather jackets. I became a registered member now because I have some questions, I hope some of you can help me with. After reading, researching, comparing , contemplating and deciding back an forth between Schott, Fox Creek, Vanson and what else is out there for quality leather I came to the conclusion that I will never be happy without the real thing and decided to order my first Aero.

Since this is my first order with them and I am still a little worried about ordering such an expensive item over the internet, I decided to not get too crazy and intend to go with a plain black Cafe Racer in 3 oz. horse hide.

Although this is a rather common model, I have some questions:

1. Sizing: my chest is between 40.9 (normal sweater/shirt) and 42.13 (thick woolen sweater). I think this kind of jacket will be worn with a T-Shirt only or a thinner Sweater, so a 40 could be enough. This style should not bee too loose, on the other hand I dont want to be too restricted in movement, so a 42 could be fine as well. What size would you recommend? Will the jacket get wider after time?
3. Arm length: Although I ride and this is a motorcycle cut I am not planning to wear it on the bike (I have special MC jackets with armour for this) so the extra arm length normally needed for MC jackets is not necessary. How did you measure your arms to get the right arm length?
5. Lining: I like to have the arms lined with satin but for the torso I am not sure what to get. Some say Alpaca is too warm, but I would not mind a jacket that can be worn with a T-Shirt in Autumn/Spring. What is your opinion on the best lining? Black cotton has been recommended a lot. I wonder if that is the best of both worlds (warm enough but still wearable around 10-18 degrees celcius)
7. Maker: I read somewhere here that different people at Aero make different Jackets and some are better at one style and some better at others. Is that true, and if so, which person should I ask for for a Cafe Racer?
9. Any other suggestions you have that might be important to take into account before ordering the first Aero.

Thank you in advance for you help,
Monte

 

[Grayland]

Alpaca is considered itchy or prickly by some and may not be a good choice for a jacket worn over a t-shirt. I have an alpaca lined Aero jacket and I won't be purchasing any future jackets with alpaca lining.

 

[Superfluous]

Echoing Grayland, Alpaca can be itchy. I have an Alpaca lined N-1 and, while it is very warm, it can be a bit itchy with short sleeves. I would recommend something else for a Cafe Racer that you intend to wear with short sleeves.

 

[gtdean48]

Alpaca is warm. I only wear my 50s HB on colder days & it is prickly. I'm having it replaced with a lightweight tartan wool so I can wear it a bit warmer & layer when colder.

 

[GregO]

I have an Aero racer in size 40, and my chest measures 41 inches. Mine fits very well, however, I have the biswing shoulders and without them, the jacket would be too restrictive. I would not plan on the jacket "getting wider over time." While certain areas of the jacket will stretch a bit, you aren't going to gain a half-size through stretch.

As for lining, I have black cotton drill throughout, although if I ordered again, I would go with satin or rayon in the arms. My suggestion is satin/rayon sleeves, black cotton drill in the body. The cotton drill is the most flexible of the linings, and more durable than satin or rayon.

Arm length: Measure from the bone that protrudes from your shoulder to the point on your wrist where you want the jacket to fall. Do not measure yourself -- have someone else measure you.

Also pay attention to body length. In a cafe racer, the length of the body is very important to the overall look of the jacket.

 

[Montecristo]

Thanks so far guys.

@GregO: what do you suggest for body length, where should the jacket end? At the hip bones or just above the hip bones? Since this is not supposed to be a real riding jacket I suppose it should be a little longer than a typical MC jacket.

 

[Sloan1874]

Also allow for the sleeves wrinkling - 0.5" to 1". I've got a Board Track Racer on order, and for that I'm going with the standard rayon lining, but, generally, I've found either a wool or cotton in the body with cotton sleeves is good if you're looking to wear it fitted.

 

[GregO]

While some might say that body length is purely personal preference in a jacket (and I generally agree), I don't think a cafe racer looks good if it extends much beyond your belt. My preference is for the jacket to be no longer than right at the bottom of my belt.

Of course this doesn't apply to some cafe racers, such as a Buco J-100 (and the various repros) which was designed to be a longer jacket with the hip flare, bottom zipper gap, etc.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Thanks so far guys.

@GregO: what do you suggest for body length, where should the jacket end? At the hip bones or just above the hip bones? Since this is not supposed to be a real riding jacket I suppose it should be a little longer than a typical MC jacket.

I'd always have it sit two inches below the belt line. Check out the many fit photos on this site and see what you like. Your weight and height are factors.

 

[GregO]

Seb's advice to check out the fit pics on TFL is good advice. See what you like. I guess what I'm saying is if your cafe racer covers your arse, something went wrong with the fitting! I think if you do some looking around, most racers will fall either at, or within an inch or two of, the belt.

I'd always have it sit two inches below the belt line. Check out the many fit photos on this site and see what you like. Your weight and height are factors/

 

[GregO]

Oh, one last piece of advice -- stay away from the "ball and chain" zipper pulls. I have broken two of them. They are not very durable.

 

[Monitor]

Montecristo, I know you said you do not intend to use it as a riding jacket, but if you might consider it, may I suggest that you get an action back, or a full bi-swing back, rather than the sleeve gussets as these are damn near useless. On the other hand, you may want a clean back version of the jacket, which is something Aero can do.

I am also in a process of ordering an Aero CR and have found these few threads very useful in regards to sizing:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?58231-help-with-Aero-cafe-racer-order
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?66801-Aero-Cafe-Racer-in-brown-oil-pull-horse-hide

...and a few other threads I cannot seem to find atm. Search on Google for 'aero cafe racer', lots of very useful threads right here on TFL. Basically, consensus is that you can go a size down with this style, for a more fitted look. What Sloan said, adding an inch to the sleeves won't hurt as FQHH will crease and stay that way and you don't want to end up having to tug at the sleeve cuffs all the time.

Regarding lining, I am very happy with the cotton drill. Quality stuff. As for the warmth, I really liked that blanket-thing lining but they don't offer this option anymore.

Lastly, keep in mind that you can have your jacket modified in more ways than what is being listed on Aero's site. You should, for example, be able to choose between several different collar variants for the Cafe Racer, just take a look at this thread:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63490-Aero-Cafe-Racer-Collar-Picture-collection

Also, little details like contrast stitching or gussets and such do wonders for the overall appearance of the jacket.

Oh, one last piece of advice -- stay away from the "ball and chain" zipper pulls. I have broken two of them. They are not very durable.

I could say the same for the chain pull zipper. Rings are not welded closed as the ones Schott's using and they tend to just fall off when you pull on them. Even Aero's recommending against them. I'll try Diamond pull next...

 

[Cyber Lip]

anyone gone with the rayon sleeves in an aero? it seems like it might not work so great on the styles where they bring the sleeve lining right to the tip of the sleeve.

 

[Fanch]

My last three Aero jackets (Teamster, Pioneer, & Mulligan) all have sleeves lined with cotton drill which has worked well, at least for me, and is slicker than some of their earlier cotton drill that tended to grab.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Monte, if you're not goign to ride I'd recommend mid-weight horse rather than FQHH. The mid-weight is more comfortable and versatile and will wear like iron.

 

[Peter Mackin]

Mid weight horse is great..i have a highwayman & a herc in fqh & an a2 in jerky...mid weight is prob my fav....if i was to change anything on the mid or fqh jackets it would be to have satin lined sleeves...the body lining in the highwayman is lightweight tartan..works great.

 

[Montecristo]

Thanks again guys, really appreciate your advice on this. Efff - now I have even more questions than in the beginning;-))

What do you think about full cotton lining (also arms) and a cover of satin on top of it? Will it be too thick? I kind of like the idea of having a little extra padding, but maybe it gets too thick as I intend to stay with the heavy leather.

Actually that was the reason that brought me to Aero, the unparalleled thickness of the leather - and who knows, maybe I will use this jacket on a bike from time to time.

With the zippers I am confused now, what option do you have there? I thought they only do it with the "chain and ball" type? My preference would be the plain YKK zipper Fox Creek is using, but I think Aero does not have it. What do you think concerning metal? I thought about antique brass, but shiny brass also seems to be cool.

What I learned from the forum is that it would be wise to not do the lining until the very end of the sleeves but have one inch of leather before the lining starts. Do you agree?

As for the collar I am happy with the standard collar but would like to have a plain button without logo/engraving on it.

 

[Sloan1874]

If it was me, I would just go with plain cotton all the way through, the extra layer would be too much in terms of heat - especially rayon, which won't breathe. Aero use Talons as zips, not YKKs. You could ask them to put a diamond and chain puller on the pockets (that's what they use ball and chain pullers on). I've got the shiny and antique, they're both nice but it depends what look you're going for - I'm going for the tumbled cordovan and antique brass with my jacket to try to get a vintage dead stock feel, but the shiny stuff with black or brown has it's attractions.
Can't help you with the stud button thing - I don't think any of mine had a logo on it though.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Monte, if you're not goign to ride I'd recommend mid-weight horse rather than FQHH. The mid-weight is more comfortable and versatile and will wear like iron.

I'd have to agree, don't get the idea that just because its called mid-weight that it isn't a substantial and heavy leather. I find the mid weight leathers to have a nice heft to them without being too thick and just flat out more comfortable to wear.

 

[Monitor]

Montecristo, scroll down for some custom Aero options:
http://www.thurston-bros.com/#!custom-aero/cvnh

You can request a plain snap button for your collar. They use plain snaps on asymmetrical styles so no problem there. As for the hardware, I am very happy with standard brass as it got antique-y looking after a month of usage.

Honestly, I've never found Aero's FQHH, or any other FQHH for that matter, to be restrictive in the least bit. Sure, it is a substantial and heavy leather but I never once felt that any of my FQHH Aero jackets are in any way even slightly less comfortable than any other leather jacket I've ever had - granted, MC jackets of different sorts is all I've ever been wearing, but still - so as, personally, I can only see benefits from thicker leather, that's the only way I would go about my Aeros.