My early D pocket

[Carlos840]

For those that asked here are some more pics.

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That second to last picture is interesting, it almost looks like the horizontal part of the pocket at the top was cut too wide on the right side and then stitched back.

 

[John_Z]

That second to last picture is interesting, it almost looks like the horizontal part of the pocket at the top was cut too wide on the right side and then stitched back.

That’s the upper end of one of the sleeve zips. But I see your point. Never noticed that in all the years I’ve had it.

 

[tmitchell59]

I believe your jacket and the late 40s Hercules posted above were made by the same maker. Your jacket represents a model that Sear contracted for. The lack of half-belt, non-tapered waist belt, lining were changed to suit Sears and probably to lower the cost. The lower back design on the Hercules reflects the more common seen design. This lower, Kidney panel, changed too with the addition of the metal spots.

As pictured above, There were differences in the jackets through the years. I would guess that suppliers were changed and Sears just accepted what they made as long as it fit their cost. They sold a lot of these jackets, so the maker would need to have the capacity to fill Sears orders. This may have added to the variety of jackets as they needed more than one supplier to meet demand.

This jacket variation seems to be the most commonly seen. I've owned two and they are identical. This is also the variation that gets the Sears Oakbrook label in the early 60s. Same jacket just no horsehide.

Since Sears was not a maker that mystery remains. I do believe some were made by Appalachian Tanned and Tailored. They show up with a leather name tag as is seen on some Appalachian jackets. I have also seen this leather label on Windward jackets from Montgomery Ward. This is confirmed by Fieldmaster and Oakbrook jackets that are identical to Appalachian labeled jacket.

Here is a standard Hercules leather tag on another early lined Hercules

This is the Appalachian leather label with the Windward branding. This label was also used with Hercules branding. This is a very short lived label.

With that, I don't think Appalachian made your jacket or the 40s labeled Hercules jackets. I think this was their first run of jackets based on the same maker as your jacket. This would have been a smaller contract that a smaller shop could produce. When they got hot they had to find other makers with the capacity to produce larger volume.

When I think of smaller shops with high quality leather I think of the San Francisco by area.

 

[tmitchell59]

here is another early one I would say from the same maker, but the leather tag is the more standard Hercules. Has the plain lower back panel with no half-belt. Sleeve zippers in different position.

 

[Kuro]

here is another early one I would say from the same maker, but the leather tag is the more standard Hercules. Has the plain lower back panel with no half-belt. Sleeve zippers in different position.

These jackets just look all business. WOW.

 

[tmitchell59]

Here is my Montgomery Wards 1940s.
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No D Pocket but it has the half belt back, which I love! It's just so short!

What an Outstanding jacket! I saw it, but was too busy looking at the Hercules. This Windward label? I'd like to see more pics. This is an interesting jacket that does not look familiar to me, especially if it has a Windward label. thanks

 

[Corky Corcovado]

What an Outstanding jacket! I saw it, but was too busy looking at the Hercules. This Windward label? I'd like to see more pics. This is an interesting jacket that does not look familiar to me, especially if it has a Windward label. thanks

My jacket is missing it's label, however, this is what it would have sported based on my research.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Beautiful jacket. I like that it doesn't have a bunch of other zippers all over it like some D pockets have.