Modern fur felt Bowlers

[Matt Deckard]

I know Lock and Herbert Johnson do a pretty fair job, Yet the edge isn't quite to what it was in the 60s 50s 40s or 30s

I have vintage yet shirk the modern versions since the crowns never seam to be right to me. Often more tapered or much lower than any of the vintage ones I find. I'd like to see more of you in your modern versions. So let's see them.

Stetson

Beaver Brand

Bailey

Christy's

Bollman

James Lock

 

[jwalls]

I agree with your observation about crown height on modern bowlers. I posted a derby that I made on the derby/bowler thread [post#280]that is more in line with what I want in crown height.

 

[Matt Deckard]

The crown height is one thing. It's also the way they finish the brim. Used to be many that were curled in tighter on the sides. Much much tighter than the modern examples above. and less curled front to back. This made it a bit dimensional. From talking to hatters it's harder to do that nowadays because the ribbon of today melts.

I do wish someone could make them like the one I have on in my avatar.

 

[besdor]

The only derby that comes close today is Christys derby. I believe that it is still made in England . Here in the USA, it is offered by Dorfman Pacific. It is clearly the best modern made bowler or derby.


Steven
www.bencrafthats.com

 

[Matt Deckard]

I think that's the best production one. Lock still makes a pretty good one. They like them furry but the crown is straight.

There is also one other UK company besides Lock and HJ that makes riding wear which does pretty good bowlers. But the most accessible one that is pretty correct is Christy's.

 

[Charlie Huang]

Patey's:

http://www.pateyhats.com/?cat=11

The brim binding looks kind of weird. I suppose you can request them to make the brim more authentic.

 

[jwalls]

This is about the best I can do with the derby flange until I can get pure silk grograin ribbon. http://www.xoopit.com/s/20um7cjq58eneohc94au

 

[Matt Deckard]

This is about the best I can do with the derby flange until I can get pure silk grograin ribbon. http://www.xoopit.com/s/20um7cjq58eneohc94au

Pretty warped.

 

[Dreispitz]

Vintage Dunn vs. Contemporary Christy´s

The differences between vintage (60ies) and modern Bowler Hat can be seen best in a direct comparison:







Left is a vintage Dunn and right is a modern Christy´s riding bowler (fur felt).

This Christy´s is quite good and firm for today´s production standards. However, it´s shortcomings are visible. Crown shape is not formed properly, brim curl and binding do not reach the vintage standard. At least there is some hint of a curl. Still it is the closest to the real thing, I found, in modern production Bowlers.

The Patey one in one of the previous posts by Charlie Huang looks pretty good in terms of felt finish. Jet again, shape and brim curl and binding! For 440 quid they should be able to come up with the real thing. The Christy´s one is considerably cheaper and indeed more acurate, as mentioned by Steven.

 

[Charlie Huang]

I might ask them if they can do a proper brim curl and binding when I pay Patey's a visit sometimes next year (I have been meaning to go to them to reconform my high silk as well as bowler; they are the cheapest place to reconform hard shells). If they can repair the brim bindings of vintage toppers I don't see why they cannot replicate it for new ones.

 

[Dreispitz]

I might ask them if they can do a proper brim curl and binding when I pay Patey's a visit sometimes next year (I have been meaning to go to them to reconform my high silk as well as bowler; they are the cheapest place to reconform hard shells). If they can repair the brim bindings of vintage toppers I don't see why they cannot replicate it for new ones.

I am curious about the outcome of the renovations. Shaping a brim the old style must be quite an art. Would be cool, if they can still do it!

 

[Dreispitz]

Would be interesting to see a picture of a vintage Bowler of Patey´s. Any around here?

 

[Matt Deckard]

Ugh... such a different look from what they used to be on that Christy's.

Can any of you UK locals get a good shot of a current Lock bowler?

 

[ScottF]

I know Lock and Herbert Johnson do a pretty fair job, Yet the edge isn't quite to what it was in the 60s 50s 40s or 30s

I have vintage yet shirk the modern versions since the crowns never seam to be right to me. Often more tapered or much lower than any of the vintage ones I find. I'd like to see more of you in your modern versions. So let's see them.

I keep going back to this website, tempted to pick up one of theirs. Here's the Victorian page, with bowlers, (but I really, really love the 'Shiloh' on the Civil War' pages). Does anyone have experience purchasing from these folks?

Clearwater hat Victorian page

 

[Matt Deckard]

Those are a little too western for the details I'm talking about on the 20s city hat version.

I think I've seen one of those in person at a reenactment once. They are worth their own thread.


Charlie unhappy in a modern bowler.

Duke of Windsor happy in his modern at the time bowler.

 

[indycop]

I called them and sent an email a while back inquiring about this one but never heard from them...[huh]

 

[ScottF]

Those are a little too western for the details I'm talking about on the 20s city hat version.

I think I've seen one of those in person at a reenactment once. They are worth their own thread.

Sorry. Saw "60s,50s,40s,30s" in your original post, so not really sure what era you were talking about...didn't see 20s at all.

In any case, I'm ordering one from them, and will start a thread with an evaluation.

Scott <=== probably virtually blind.

 

[Matt Deckard]

So Charlie, any word from Patey's?

 

[Charlie Huang]

I have actually abandoned any plan of ordering a bowler from them as money is not well at hand these days...

From what I gather, they would be made in the goss layering technique, hence the high price which is similar to their riding hats.

 

[AEH]

Modern Lock

Ugh... such a different look from what they used to be on that Christy's.

Can any of you UK locals get a good shot of a current Lock bowler?

I visited Lock & Co last fall, and took this picture of their "Coke" display:

Not a good shot, as you requested, but I hope you can judge their brim curl by it. Not too bad, in my opinion.