Modern fur felt Bowlers

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! The crown is ~ 5 inches (~ 13cm) and the brim is ~ 2 inches (~ 5cm). It wears more like a soft felt due to the low weight and flexiblity of the felt. You should be able to find something similar in your neck of the woods.

 

[bowlerman]

I like the thin binding on that Mayser, and looks like Guerra is doing some nice work too! One of these days I'd like to get my Mallory torino reblocked with a true derby block. After an accident with ketchup and dishwater I asked a local western store to reblock it (whatever that meant to them), and it came out a little too round.

Here it is:

I'd love to know when this was made. It's not old. Maybe 60s-70s?

 

[besdor]

You know that Mayser isnt making their hats in Germany anymore. I think most of the production was moved to Slovakia. Im not happy ..No more custom work. They will only make whats in their catalog.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes Mayser has really cut back. All production was moved to Slovakia as of April 2011. They are also getting some hats from Poland and Czech Republic sources. Here is the press release from 2010.

The future of the Mayser hats is now secured -
brand protection through outsourcing abroad

Since 2002, the Lindenberg based company Mayser
has been establishing its own company in Roznava,
Slovakia, which, as of April 2011, will be producing
all headpieces of the Mayser brand.
Currently already, Mayser-Roznava is manufacturing
all fabric articles of the brand.
The further modern development of Mayser-Roznava
and the training of its staff prepares the company
for its future tasks with great effort, dedication
and commitment. Throughout this, a quality
management and control system takes centre stage
in addition.

The manufacture at Mayser-Roznava allows to continue
offering hats of traditionally known high quality on
the world market. Established in Lindenberg, a
tradition is thus being pursued that dates back to
the year 1833.

Based on the following criteria, it is our will and
objective to continue providing our customers in all
the world with the famous Mayser quality:

- Solid fashionable designs

- Use of best materials

- Best workmanship

- Perfect services

- High social competence

- Innovations

The following continues to be located at Mayser in Lindenberg:

- The design department (modistes & studio)

- The procurement department

- The marketing & sales and the delivery departments

- The quality control department

The dye-works, raw manufacture and a technical division
in Lindenberg ensure,beyond that, the maintaining and
advancement of the know-how.

We do not only secure jobs in Lindenberg, but commit
ourselves also to quality made in Europe, certainly with
due regard to the applicable social standards.

Manfred Jordan
Executive Partner Mayser Group
Lindenberg, July 2010

 

[kolchak]

Thanks! The crown is ~ 5 inches (~ 13cm) and the brim is ~ 2 inches (~ 5cm). It wears more like a soft felt due to the low weight and flexiblity of the felt. You should be able to find something similar in your neck of the woods.

Thanks. I think I'm getting a handle on what I like. The shape of the Dulcis conform I bought is more to my taste than the Failsworth. It is also 7 1/8 but fits (probably more like the hat you posted above.) The crown is bigger with a more pronounced 'bell shape'. It sits taller and is decidedly more aggressively 'Bowler.' I don't know the year its from but I think no later than early 50's? However, It has a musty scent in the ribbon that I am trying to find a way to get rid of. I thought about replacing the ribbon but then I wouldn't be able to match the rim binding and its really very nice with no stitch seam showing. I doubt the hatter in Berlin I went to, although likely very good, would be able to replicate the edge in that manner. Does the newspaper trick work?

I am going to write Wegener today and ask the about custom ordering. I searched the Austrian German Hats thread but couldn't find the post.

 

[mayserwegener]

I checked it too but couldn't find it. I think it was sent to me in a PM. I tried Google and found the blog.

http://bernhardroetzelblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/einzeln-und-auf-wunsch-gefertigt-hut.html

I am looking forward to your update regarding Wegener's custom offerings.

Regarding the musty scent. The newspaper trick might help. Also a large amount of fresh air and sunlight might also do the trick.

It's very important to have the correct silk ribbon for the binding and band for vintage Bowlers*. Applying it would be very labor intensive. Please see this great post on the subject.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?64813-Bowler-edge-trim-replacement&

* This is another major difference with modern Bowlers. They do not use the correct silk ribbon for the band and binding (see the silk ribbon on J. Hückel´s Söhne Plume Melone I posted in this thread).

 

[kolchak]

I checked it too but couldn't find it. I think it was sent to me in a PM. I tried Google and found the blog.

http://bernhardroetzelblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/einzeln-und-auf-wunsch-gefertigt-hut.html

I am looking forward to your update regarding Wegener's custom offerings.

Regarding the musty scent. The newspaper trick might help. Also a large amount of fresh air and sunlight might also do the trick.

It's very important to have the correct silk ribbon for the binding and band for vintage Bowlers*. Applying it would be very labor intensive. Please see this great post on the subject.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?64813-Bowler-edge-trim-replacement&

* This is another major difference with modern Bowlers. They do not use the correct silk ribbon for the band and binding (see the silk ribbon on J. Hückel´s Söhne Plume Melone I posted in this thread).

Thank you very much for your reply!

I am going to try and just let the hat air out for now. No way the edge binding can be duplicated so I won't bother replacing the ribbon and bow. Its a great hat and the smell isn't that noticeable. The thread was great - it just is so sad that even a place like Optimo can't really even come close to the old craft. I put the Failsworth Rackhams bowler up on ebay in Germany. Bought another vintage one and that should be here next week - its a G.A. Dunn.

I will let you know what the deal is with Wegener after I write them. Danke auch für die Blog Verbindung!

 

[newturnofphrase]

Okay, here goes nothing:

Excellent photo. Hat make? I like the narrow brim on that. I recently got a similar narrow-brim lock bowler from circa 1989-90.

 

[casechopper]

Wegener Bowler. Purchased from a fellow lounger in Germany.
I have an extra long oval head and this fits almost perfectly. Does anyone know if German hat makers generally make their hats more long oval than hatters from other countries?

 

[Chepstow]

Sam, great Melone. It's a newer Melone from Wegener probably from the 80s. You look very good with it!

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

After actually examining a Patey bowler I can say that they are probably the best modern bowlers available in modern times.

They are really strong and sturdy. Not blocked like many vintage and modern bowlers on a hydraulic press with a single layer of felt but ironed with many layers of goss on a block before the felt is then covered onto the shell (basically, like a riding hat). The hat is very thick and heavy and I would say you could stand on it without it breaking! The brim curl and binding is very close to vintage style and all hand sewn on. You could also specify the crown height, weight, brim curl, felt, etc you want so it is a truly bespoke hat individually made for you.

I'm currently saving up (£500!) for one as I just fell in love with them the instant I laid my hands on one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nRR6g6InYY

In this video a Patey hatmaker shows what shell looks like before its been covered.

 

[mayserwegener]

I don't agree with the above the statement. When it comes to dress stiff felt hats the lighter the better. IMO The super light weights of the first of the part of the 20th Century are the zenith.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

I don't agree with the above the statement. When it comes to dress stiff felt hats the lighter the better. IMO The super light weights of the first of the part of the 20th Century are the zenith.

The hunting and dressage bowlers have their purpose, but I agree that it makes no sense to have a city bowler with the same features. My Stetson standard is my lightest and by far most comfortable for a full days wear. I havent had a chance to feel the weight of one of the superlight melones but I imagine those are even more so.

I think the modern melones that Kolchak posted earlier are much more authentic in terms of attempting to replicate the style of bowlers that were made in the past.

Still its interesting to think that underneath all the felt there's essentially a bowler shaped helmet in Pateys, and at least you don't have to stress about potentially denting a crown if you accidentally hit your head on something.

 

[mayserwegener]

The dress stiff felt production processes are lost so what you get today is a stiffer soft felt hat. In the day the makers put great effort into producing light weight more flexible dress stiff felt hats (see the soft felt threat) while maintaining the proper characteristics.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Patey Hunting Bowler.

This ones an odd bird. I changed out the ribbon because it had a slight discoloration and because along with the brim bindings appears to be made out of the same material they use for straps on backpacks.

Bottom of the brim is a different material, it looks like the underside of an old top hat.

Its a heavy one for sure, but less so than the Christys of London Devon Bowler.

Absolutely no way anyone but a toddler could stand on top of one of these without it shattering. It's a sturdy bowler to be certain, but i'm not going to be testing my weight on it anytime soon.

I honestly have no idea if its wool or fur, it has tiny little white hairs so I assume its fur, but the texture is far different than any of my other bowlers.

It's jet black and i'm fairly certain that this could be polished to a high sheen like a top hat. All in all a very interesting bowler.

In terms of actually looking like an older bowler, I still think the Wegener Melones Kolchak posted are far closer. It's a shame the stiffening process has been forgotten though.

 

[mingoslim]

What a terrific looking Bowler/Derby!
Never heard of Wegener before . . . but I'd say this is a keeper.
And i know what you mjean about long oval blues on modern hats . . . I always get an 8th of a size large when purchasing modern, because my long oval head needs the room.

Wegener Bowler. Purchased from a fellow lounger in Germany.
I have an extra long oval head and this fits almost perfectly. Does anyone know if German hat makers generally make their hats more long oval than hatters from other countries?

 

[mrwilmoth]

Northwest Hats
Paul's Hat Works
Blacksheep Hat Works