Matt Deckard Apparel

[MrBern]

how long?

Matt,
Exactly how long did it take to produce Vainian's suit? From measurements to delivery? Were there any alterations necessary after delivery?

 

[John in Covina]

Matt has a great eye for details. I recall him taking pictures and making notes when he saw some interesting vintage suits at the Vintage Fashion Show in Santa Monica a few shows back.

So if he's seen the Oviatt pictures, I am sure it helped inspire him.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

That suit is wonderful!


Matt, could you please make (some) dress shirts with a collar just like this one?

 

[BellyTank]

OT

I recently found a NOS, '30s, Swedish Air Force shirt, in a pale grey,
with that classic collar profile AND a collar tab. Very nice.


B
T

 

[Feraud]

+1 on the shirt please.

Matt, could you please make (some) dress shirts with a collar just like this one?

 

[mike]

Matt,

I see your tailor is in NYC this upcoming week. Does he have any imagery or fabric samples set aside for any of your customers to check out? I am considering getting measured again if they are able to keep track of the information. Whaddayathink?

 

[Ed]

Matt's tailor (Joe Hemrajani of mytailor.com)
will make that collar (or any style collar you want).
Just show him the picture or the actual shirt if you
have it.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Matt,

I see your tailor is in NYC this upcoming week. Does he have any imagery or fabric samples set aside for any of your customers to check out? I am considering getting measured again if they are able to keep track of the information. Whaddayathink?

If you place an order we'll keep your info on file.

There are certain stripes I've picked out to show you. Ring me if you want to make an appointment.

 

[mike]

If you place an order we'll keep your info on file.

There are certain stripes I've picked out to show you. Ring me if you want to make an appointment.

These guys virtually make house calls with countless fabric books on hand. I would prefer to see swatches when I'm placing an order in person. That is what everyone else in the room placing an order is doing.

Plus, I'm a little confused as to why the tailors would take the time to measure a person and take pictures if they aren't taking them seriously to actually keep the information on file. Last time, the only reason I didn't hand over my credit card info was because they couldn't produce any of the swatches you were working with. How can I pick out an item without swatches to reference? [huh]

Sincerely,
Would-Be Customer

 

[Quigley Brown]

That suit is wonderful!

Matt, could you please make (some) dress shirts with a collar just like this one?

That looks similar to the style the wiseguys always wore in Scorese films.

 

[mike]

Matt,

Can you specify how the different looks were achieved on these two clients? Were the different looks planned? Would they be different model suits on your site? Call me crazy, but these appear like significantly different suits. I really like how distinctly earlier the cut is on Darren's suit. I wish he posted more here nowadays.

 

[mike]

Matt,

Can you specify how the different looks were achieved on these two clients? Were the different looks planned? Would they be different model suits on your site? Call me crazy, but these appear like significantly different suits. I really like how distinctly earlier the cut is on Darren's suit. I wish he posted more here nowadays.

I thought it was a decent question.

 

[John in Covina]

The suits are actually very similar with small detail differences and the different fabrics.

BUT as I understand it, the key issue is that the height of the two gentlemen is pretty different which probably is the reason why they look more different than they actually are design wise.

The gent with the hat is pretty tall and fairly thin build (closer to the term lanky) while the other gentleman is of medium height and a little more stocky build. Those differences probably changes the ratio of the sections a bit to get the fit correct and that makes them look a bit more different than similar.
[huh]

 

[mike]

The suits are actually very similar with small detail differences and the different fabrics.

BUT as I understand it, the key issue is that the height of the two gentlemen is pretty different which probably is the reason why they look more different than they actually are design wise.

The gent with the hat is pretty tall and fairly thin build (closer to the term lanky) while the other gentleman is of medium height and a little more stocky build. Those differences probably changes the ratio of the sections a bit to get the fit correct and that makes them look a bit more different than similar.
[huh]

If the suits are the same just the builds of the wearer are different, why would a client need to be fitted in person? That makes it sound like these are basically off the rack items, no?

I was trying to pay Matt a compliment and inquire about some details. Too bad he doesn't check this thread often.

 

[John in Covina]

In order to adjust for the differences in build each person has to be measured and the suit is made to those specific measurements. Often there is an ideal suit size or example from which those calculations are derived. The thing is the tailor has pictures of the person and can adjust also for the stance, or the body peculiarities such as shoulder height. It comes down to getting a good fit but also a good look so the suit lays correctly. They are made to measure.

Off the rack uses a set of averages as the set measurements for each size and adjusts to the next size up or down along with an average adjustment for height and even weight. You can get a specific suit at the Mens Warehouse with it being available in 40 regular, 40 short. 40 long even in some a 40 portly. (Producers of off the rack have a huge investment in pre-made stock.) With those averages there are still people that need some tailoring to get it right: take in here, shorten the sleeves and such. Even then a suit may not lay right on a person and we can have the modern design drawbacks built in such as huge arm holes and ultra thin fabric that may not lay right, wrinkle easily and/or wear out very quickly.

 

[mike]

In order to adjust for the differences in build each person has to be measured and the suit is made to those specific measurements. Often there is an ideal suit size or example from which those calculations are derived. The thing is the tailor has pictures of the person and can adjust also for the stance, or the body peculiarities such as shoulder height. It comes down to getting a good fit but also a good look so the suit lays correctly. They are made to measure.

Off the rack uses a set of averages as the set measurements for each size and adjusts to the next size up or down along with an average adjustment for height and even weight. You can get a specific suit at the Mens Warehouse with it being available in 40 regular, 40 short. 40 long even in some a 40 portly. (Producers of off the rack have a huge investment in pre-made stock.) With those averages there are still people that need some tailoring to get it right: take in here, shorten the sleeves and such. Even then a suit may not lay right on a person and we can have the modern design drawbacks built in such as huge arm holes and ultra thin fabric that may not lay right, wrinkle easily and/or wear out very quickly.

Is this Matt's take?

It could be a trick of the eye created from body type, angle the photograph was taken, or even something like an optical illusion created by the pinstripes in Alex's suit. But to my eye, Dagwood's suit looks distinctly 20's or early 30's and LexyBeast's suit looks more 40's in style. I could definitely be wrong. They are both very nice. I just wonder if they in fact both using Matt's #4 suit style template but reading differently?

 

[Matt Deckard]

 

[John in Covina]

Is this Matt's take? It could be a trick of the eye created from body type, angle the photograph was taken, or even something like an optical illusion created by the pinstripes in Alex's suit. But to my eye, Dagwood's suit looks distinctly 20's or early 30's and LexyBeast's suit looks more 40's in style. I could definitely be wrong. They are both very nice. I just wonder if they in fact both using Matt's #4 suit style template but reading differently?

Hey Mike,

I think that the difference in the fabric as the grey versus the pin stipe give it a different look a different impression right off the bat but if you compare the collar, lapel elements and where they lay in say relationship to the shoulder, where the the slit or notch is and button holes, the angle of the lapel and how the come together on each guy, they seem to be much more similar than it first appears. The buttons seem to be in about the same place and the placement of the pockets are really close. To me the pinstip jacket seems a little longer maybe but that might have to do with the stance of each guy. A point by point comparison seems to say more similar than different I think.

Heck they both look good to me too.

 

[mike]

Couldn't have been said better with two thousand words! :eusa_clap

 

[Matt Deckard]

Got to catch up with author Andy Gilchrist of www.askandyaboutclothes.com before he headed off to New York. Thankfully I was able to get some pics of his Matt Deckard Apparel sports jacket over lunch at Cole's French Dip in Downtown LA.