Looking for hat information?

[jlee562]

I guess I'm having trouble differentiating between a western and a fedora, or more specifically, what exactly you describe as a fedora. Are you referring to a more stylistic short brimmed version? I mentioned before that my love for hats began with the Indy (which I know were different styles for each movie). I also like the more rugged look with a casual feel, if you catch my drift. If you've ever seen the tv series Justified, the main character wears a custom Stetson. It's got somewhat of a rugged look to it, but he wears it with style. Although I don't want that exact hat, that's the look I'm going for. Now it's been mentioned before that fedoras tend to be softer than westerns, is that why you suggest me looking into customs?

I will take your advice and look into custom made hats. Thanks everyone for all the help. It's been very informative. I apologise for overloading with questions, and if I'm slow to grasp things. I just want to make the right choice before I buy.

Don't feel bad, the definition between them is kind of arbitrary. IMHO, once you get a 3" brim or more, that's in the western category. The crown height for a typical fedora from the 20's they the 60's would have been between 6" - 5 1/2" as an uncreased , open crown hat. The big ol' turn of the century western sometimes had crowns up to 8", 7" was also typical. Modern western hats are more like 6" - 6 1/2".western

 

[Just A Hat Rack]

Don't feel bad, the definition between them is kind of arbitrary. IMHO, once you get a 3" brim or more, that's in the western category. The crown height for a typical fedora from the 20's they the 60's would have been between 6" - 5 1/2" as an uncreased , open crown hat. The big ol' turn of the century western sometimes had crowns up to 8", 7" was also typical. Modern western hats are more like 6" - 6 1/2".western

So yeah, a western fedora sums it up

I know the original Indy, which I believe was called The Poet, had a pretty tall crown. I don't need anything that tall, but I don't want anything too low either. I guess I'll have to get out my measuring stick and see what I like

 

[deadlyhandsome]

So yeah, a western fedora sums it up

I know the original Indy, which I believe was called The Poet, had a pretty tall crown. I don't need anything that tall, but I don't want anything too low either. I guess I'll have to get out my measuring stick and see what I like

If you want to buy new and not vintage, you have the choice of buying an outdoors hat that will be stiff but have a modest crown and a 3.25”+ brim or you can go custom. The custom route lets you spec out all the dimensions and the felt type.

If you want a hat with a more flexible brim that is over 3” you don’t have a lot of options in a new hat other than custom. Staker Hats makes a replica Justified hat, but they can make it with a flatter brim etc. as you direct. I ordered a fedora from Staker and I had my choice of a western felt hat body or a fedora felt hat body. The finished dimensions would be the same but the western would be much stiffer. Also, if you like the Dune (I own one in Acorn) you can have a local hatter change out the ribbon inexpensively.

Good luck.


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[deadlyhandsome]

Will less stiffener diminish the quality of the hat, or how it will hold up to the elements? I am not sure of the purpose of stiffeners, other than to make the hat stiff.

Westerns hold up better to the elements because they are thicker felts and the stiffeners certainly help them keep their shape when wet. Still, a well-built fedora can take some abuse.

If you can come down from a three inch brim you have lots of options in fedoras such as the Akubra Campdrafts or Federation IVs.


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[deadlyhandsome]

I guess I'm having trouble differentiating between a western and a fedora, or more specifically, what exactly you describe as a fedora. Are you referring to a more stylistic short brimmed version? I mentioned before that my love for hats began with the Indy (which I know were different styles for each movie). I also like the more rugged look with a casual feel, if you catch my drift. If you've ever seen the tv series Justified, the main character wears a custom Stetson. It's got somewhat of a rugged look to it, but he wears it with style. Although I don't want that exact hat, that's the look I'm going for. Now it's been mentioned before that fedoras tend to be softer than westerns, is that why you suggest me looking into customs?

I will take your advice and look into custom made hats. Thanks everyone for all the help. It's been very informative. I apologise for overloading with questions, and if I'm slow to grasp things. I just want to make the right choice before I buy.

Just to muddy the waters, it’s simple to get a western and trim the brim to whatever width you want and them iron it flat or otherwise shape it.

I’m not trying to push Akubra (they too are imperfect) but do give them a look as they might have a ready made hat that is just what you are looking for:

Lots of other models too....

Brent




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[Just A Hat Rack]

Just to muddy the waters, it’s simple to get a western and trim the brim to whatever width you want and them iron it flat or otherwise shape it.

I’m not trying to push Akubra (they too are imperfect) but do give them a look as they might have a ready made hat that is just what you are looking for:

Lots of other models too....

Brent




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You muddied the waters by giving me more hats to look at haha. No really, I appreciate everything. You've dug up hats that I haven't seen yet. I guess I haven't been looking in enough places. And I'm really going to have to mess around with the customs. That's an avenue I'm definitely not used to.

 

[belfastboy]

You muddied the waters by giving me more hats to look at haha. No really, I appreciate everything. You've dug up hats that I haven't seen yet. I guess I haven't been looking in enough places. And I'm really going to have to mess around with the customs. That's an avenue I'm definitely not used to.

Another aspect to keep in mind that if you were to buy an Akubra Campdraft in the open crown you can adjust the height of the crown to suit. Having a tall crown gives you the option of giving it a deeper crease to lower the crown. It is an advantage to have lots of crown to work with. That is much harder to do with a western weight as the bash is set in pretty hard and difficult to adjust.

 

[Just A Hat Rack]

Another aspect to keep in mind that if you were to buy an Akubra Campdraft in the open crown you can adjust the height of the crown to suit. Having a tall crown gives you the option of giving it a deeper crease to lower the crown. It is an advantage to have lots of crown to work with. That is much harder to do with a western weight as the bash is set in pretty hard and difficult to adjust.

When you say bash, are you referring to the crease on top of the crown? I used to be a big fan of the teardrop shape, but now am leaning more toward a standard western crease with a front pinch.

 

[belfastboy]

When you say bash, are you referring to the crease on top of the crown? I used to be a big fan of the teardrop shape, but now am leaning more toward a standard western crease with a front pinch.

Yes, and regardless of crease type, with lots of crown comes lots of leeway in how deep you make the crease, how steep the rake (if any) etc etc. When I bought my first Campdraft I thought the crown was huge so I just gave it a deep teardrop with a nice rake. It was fun to play with in the search for the perfect proportions

 

[Just A Hat Rack]

Just to muddy the waters, it’s simple to get a western and trim the brim to whatever width you want and them iron it flat or otherwise shape it.

I’m not trying to push Akubra (they too are imperfect) but do give them a look as they might have a ready made hat that is just what you are looking for:

Lots of other models too....

Brent




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Thanks for turning me on to the Lightning Ridge. It is a strong contender. I do have some questions about which I posted in a thread specific to the hat.

 

[Roger K.]

I just purchased this fedora from an antique dealer and he wasn't able to give me much information other than he thought it was made by Lee Hats for Woolf & Reynolds but wasn't positive. As you can see the hat looks brand new and has no wear what so ever on the crown, brim or even the sweatband, nor any stains on the liner. It says "Beaver Blend Fifteen" but it feels much smoother and softer than 15% beaver. The size tag also states "Custom Made" but not by whom. The only name on it is "Woolf & Reynolds, Inc. Johnstown, PA." When I did some research I found that Woolf & Son Clothing Merchants opened in 1878, and after the father passed away they changed the name to Woolf & Reynolds in 1899 with a new partner. They incorporated in 1903 which gave them their final name. They specialized in fine men's clothing with a showroom on the ground floor and a tailor shop on the second. The best I can figure is they closed shop in 1947 or 1949 which puts the age of this fedora at 70 years old or more. Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time and expertise.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

That’s a nice hat!
Welcome to the lounge Roger K.
You might, “gently” look behind the sweatband, under the liner some for any tags that id maker. Pics of tags would help, and size tag. Till then???
Be well. Bowen

 

[Roger K.]

Thank you for the reply. I checked the inside of the sweatband first and there are no tags or labels. There was a small tag that was removed but that doesn't help. It is a fine hat and I'm glad I got it...just curious at how old more than anything else. Who in there right mind has a hat like this and NOT wear it!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I just purchased this fedora from an antique dealer and he wasn't able to give me much information other than he thought it was made by Lee Hats for Woolf & Reynolds but wasn't positive. As you can see the hat looks brand new and has no wear what so ever on the crown, brim or even the sweatband, nor any stains on the liner. It says "Beaver Blend Fifteen" but it feels much smoother and softer than 15% beaver. The size tag also states "Custom Made" but not by whom. The only name on it is "Woolf & Reynolds, Inc. Johnstown, PA." When I did some research I found that Woolf & Son Clothing Merchants opened in 1878, and after the father passed away they changed the name to Woolf & Reynolds in 1899 with a new partner. They incorporated in 1903 which gave them their final name. They specialized in fine men's clothing with a showroom on the ground floor and a tailor shop on the second. The best I can figure is they closed shop in 1947 or 1949 which puts the age of this fedora at 70 years old or more. Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time and expertise. View attachment 118717 View attachment 118713 View attachment 118714 View attachment 118715 View attachment 118718 View attachment 118719 View attachment 118720 View attachment 118721 View attachment 118722

Beautiful! Perhaps the “15” is a reference to its price and not the beaver content? That was common on hats of that era.

 

[Frunobulax]

Indeed, the 15 refers to a $15 price point. That in itself is a dating clue of sorts. As previously mentioned, but unfortunately unavailable, blocking and reorder tags behind the sweat would provide more clues.

Lee is as good a guess as any. They were a fairly major player as a jobber at the time.


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[RJR]

I just purchased this fedora from an antique dealer and he wasn't able to give me much information other than he thought it was made by Lee Hats for Woolf & Reynolds but wasn't positive. As you can see the hat looks brand new and has no wear what so ever on the crown, brim or even the sweatband, nor any stains on the liner. It says "Beaver Blend Fifteen" but it feels much smoother and softer than 15% beaver. The size tag also states "Custom Made" but not by whom. The only name on it is "Woolf & Reynolds, Inc. Johnstown, PA." When I did some research I found that Woolf & Son Clothing Merchants opened in 1878, and after the father passed away they changed the name to Woolf & Reynolds in 1899 with a new partner. They incorporated in 1903 which gave them their final name. They specialized in fine men's clothing with a showroom on the ground floor and a tailor shop on the second. The best I can figure is they closed shop in 1947 or 1949 which puts the age of this fedora at 70 years old or more. Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time and expertise. View attachment 118717 View attachment 118713 View attachment 118714 View attachment 118715 View attachment 118718 View attachment 118719 View attachment 118720 View attachment 118721 View attachment 118722

Beauty,congrats.

 

[Roger K.]

Beautiful! Perhaps the “15” is a reference to its price and not the beaver content? That was common on hats of that era.

I never thought of that! Good information to know. Thank you for the reply!

 

[Roger K.]

Indeed, the 15 refers to a $15 price point. That in itself is a dating clue of sorts. As previously mentioned, but unfortunately unavailable, blocking and reorder tags behind the sweat would provide more clues.

Lee is as good a guess as any. They were a fairly major player as a jobber at the time.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Roger K.]

Beauty,congrats.

Thank you...she truly is!

 

[Frunobulax]

I never thought of that! Good information to know. Thank you for the reply!

You'll run into it a lot as you discover more about hats. It's a pretty common designation and signifies the quality of a hat.


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