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Lined Trousers?

SteveN

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Sydney
How often do you folks see pants with linings? I've just picked up Bernard Roetzel's book: 'Gentleman A Timeless Fashion' where on page 140 he describes 'The Trousers in Detail' as 'lined down to the knees'.

I've never seen a pair of lined trousers. Ever. He does go on to say that the English rarely do this. Perhaps American/Australian trousers take their cue from the English?

Regards,
- SteveN

P.S. That's a great book. I'm learning heaps of things from it; definitely recommended.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
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10,045
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A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Most men's trousers today that are for dress wear are lined.

Check out Polo or Brooks Brothers or Stafford trousers from JC Penney's and you will see that they are satin lined in th front to the knee.

I prefer no lining like they were done in the 30's though most of my off the rack dress trousers have a lining. it's just the defacto standard nowadays for wool trousers.
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
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1,875
Location
The Center of the Universe
I also prefer no lining, but it makes sense to line the pants- it theoretically reduces the friction in the inner thigh where fabric rubbing against skin and the fabric on the other leg will cause the area to age faster. It would seem to be less of a problem for the wide cut pants of the 30s and 40s, where the fabric "flows" more between the thighs, but with narrower pants, this area is subject to a lot of agitation. I have a slim-cut flannel that is starting to feel fuzzier in the thigh area than the hardy flannel in the rest of the pant leg, probably due to the abuse of not having any silky buffer.
 

SteveN

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Sydney
What material(s) are the linings made of?

It's getting to be summer down here, and I'm thinking of a summer suit of lightweight wool. A real silk lining might be just the thing to keep cool in the very hot weather to come.

Cheers,
- SteveN
 

Mr. Rover

One Too Many
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The Center of the Universe
They are usually made of different polyesters- rayon, acetate, bemberg, etc.
I would advise you not to use a lining on a summer suit- lining in hot or humid weather will stick to your thigh, acting like seran wrap, unless it is a very thin, porous lining. Silk is also not cool at all- silk is actually an insulator of heat and will probably make you feel warmer than cooler. In China, silk is basically used like down feathers in the West, used in duvets, pillows, coats, etc. Unless it's already cool, silk won't keep you much cooler- it'll just be super smooth and satiny.
Typically, you would use linings to keep itchy, scratchy wools, like tweeds, from rubbing against the tender thigh area, or for giving some extra weight and form to lightweight, thin fabrics like 7 or 8 oz. Super 140s and higher. I once asked to have a a custom suit be unlined in the back, like most vintage American suit jackets, but the tailor said that it would be too flimsy without it.

You're better off using a porous weave, like a wool fresco, hopsack, or crepe, and relying upon wind power to keep your legs cool.
There are lots of posts here about summer suiting- I would advise reading about them. Also, if you are interested in custom suiting, i would advise googling and looking around the London Lounge.

EDIT: Keep in mind that I am discussing linings that are like a separate pant leg/sleeve in the leg itself. Some tailors/brands line it only to the knee in the front, and the lining is pretty much attached to the front of the pant leg. It will still stick to you when you sit down, but it won't engulf your leg. If you are thinking about getting lightweight linen for a suit, lining will keep your underwear from showing through the fabric if it is somewhat sheer--I have a pair of linen pants like this and can only wear white boxers with it, because anything else would show through.
 

Feraud

Bartender
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17,188
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
SteveN said:
A real silk lining might be just the thing to keep cool in the very hot weather to come.

Cheers,
- SteveN
A silk lining could be too warm for a summer wool suit.

I have two pair of pants that are lined to the knee. I do not like the lining at all because the pants are a heavy tweed and wool and the linings makes them too hot to wear in weather over 35 degrees.

Skip the lining in pants for a summer wool suit unless as noted by Mr.Rover your choice of material is light enough to show your underwear.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
Location
USA
Trouser lining

Hot in the Summer, cold in the Winter.

Unlined is best.
 

GBR

One of the Regulars
Messages
288
Location
UK
Where have you been hiding?

Most decent wool trousers are lined, even those from modest stores. I cannot recall the last time I saw a pair without.


SteveN said:
How often do you folks see pants with linings? I've just picked up Bernard Roetzel's book: 'Gentleman A Timeless Fashion' where on page 140 he describes 'The Trousers in Detail' as 'lined down to the knees'.

I've never seen a pair of lined trousers. Ever. He does go on to say that the English rarely do this. Perhaps American/Australian trousers take their cue from the English?

Regards,
- SteveN

P.S. That's a great book. I'm learning heaps of things from it; definitely recommended.
 

MrBern

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,469
Location
DeleteStreet, REDACTCity, LockedState
SteveN said:
How often do you folks see pants with linings? I've just picked up Bernard Roetzel's book: 'Gentleman A Timeless Fashion' where on page 140 he describes 'The Trousers in Detail' as 'lined down to the knees'.

I've never seen a pair of lined trousers. Ever. He does go on to say that the English rarely do this. Perhaps American/Australian trousers take their cue from the English?

Regards,
- SteveN

P.S. That's a great book. I'm learning heaps of things from it; definitely recommended.

I jsut bought a pair of lined dress pants last week. I have some heavier winter trousers that are lined. Its not a bad idea for anyone who finds a coarse winter wool or a tweed scratchy. Unless you prefer longjohn.
 

jgilbert

One of the Regulars
Messages
234
Location
Louisville, KY
Both my summer and winter weight all wool slacked are lined. I love them. Don't seem to have a summer issue, so not a problem with the extra weight
 

celtic

A-List Customer
Messages
328
Location
NY
GBR said:
Where have you been hiding?

Most decent wool trousers are lined, even those from modest stores. I cannot recall the last time I saw a pair without.


ditto.
 

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