Getting a tailor-made suit, part 2

[Tomasso]

I recall Ray (Mr.Rover) advising to bring photos of the look you're after when dealing with Asian tailors otherwise details can get lost in translation. Actually it wouldn't be a bad practice when dealing with any tailor.

 

[Oscar Tong]

Pick-up day (well, sort of)

Today, I went to pick up the suits. Amazingly, the finished black jacket looked nothing like the unfinished version. The lapels looked spot on! The tailor was still working on the trousers, so I only got to try on the jackets and one of the shirts. Sorry, but I didn't take any pictures, since I didn't have the complete suits. The story didn't end here, though. Oh, no, it'd just begun.

When I tried on the jackets, I noticed the black one still wasn't showing any cuff, and the grey one showed just a sliver. When I told the tailor, she said I had to loosen my shirt cuffs. She then loosened them so the ends stopped close to an inch below my wrist.

I hated wearing shirt sleeves that loose and low, so I protested (for lack of a better word). Well, long story short, the tailor, as well as my mother and her two friends, pounced on me like a pack of fashionista wolves. They said I'd look ridiculous wearing a jacket that looked like it belonged to my little brother. They also insisted fervently shirt cuffs looked terrible unless they exceeded the wrists by at least an inch. I was cracking under the tremendous pressure, but I still tried to hold my ground.

Between arguments, though, the tailor did make an interesting point. She said the suits, especially the linen-silk-cotton blend, would shrink after their first dry cleaning. I didn't know this, and I was very confused and unsettled at this point. After I thought really hard for several minutes in the change room (enough to make my mother worry), I settled on a compromise. I'd let the tailor loosen the shirt cuffs a smidgen by moving the cuff buttons, and I'd have her take back the black jacket's sleeves a quarter-inch.

Man, what a rough day. Well, that's the story of my first tailored suits (in Hong Kong). I'll have pictures after I get home, unpack, and rest.

P.S. Tomasso, I think I will bring pictures next time. Thanks for the reminder.

P.P.S. GBR, I almost forgot to answer your questions! Sorry.

You seem to have a reasonable rise in the troursers - do you intend to wear them with braces (suspenders)? You could certainly have had them slightly higher or had a fishtail back but they will still look good.

You can bet your peak lapels I'll be wearing my trousers with suspenders. It's suspenders or nothing for me. Not only do they look better, they're way more comfortable!

Oh, and thanks for telling me about fishtail backs.

Presumably you decided not to have back pockets in them? Views vary but they certainly look clean in appearance as a result.

Oops, did old trousers not have back pockets, or something? Mine do have back pockets. I rarely use them, though, so it shouldn't be a problem. (Oh, wait, I guess that means I can leave them out of my next suit.)

It will be interesting to see the pictures when they are complete - can you post the same selction of views again please? Trousers without coat and as an ensemble? One or two of the inside of each of the jackets would be good as well.

I most certainly will post more pictures. I'll try to take them after I unpack, jet lag permitting.

 

[Dr Doran]

I'm finding this all quite gripping. I like the blow-by-blow details. Keep us posted and PICTURES PLEASE.

 

[Oscar Tong]

I'm finding this all quite gripping. I like the blow-by-blow details. Keep us posted and PICTURES PLEASE.

Oh, my...how flattering. *blush*

That reminds me. There's one other detail (or lack thereof) I hadn't expected from the tailor. She had cut only one lapel buttonhole on the double-breasted black jacket. I really wanted two, one on each lapel. When I asked whether she could cut the other, she advised against it, saying it'd probably come out asymmetrical this late. She also insisted no double-breasted jacket had buttonholes on each lapel. (Incidentally, one of my old double-breasted suits did have two lapel buttonholes.) Oh, well. If anyone asks, I'll just cite Clothes and the Man and say it's a European-style jacket. [huh] (Author Flusser writes the Europeans have dropped the right buttonhole on double-breasted jackets.)

And don't worry. I'll post pictures as soon as I can manage. Right now, though, I have to pack for the return flight. See you later!

 

[GBR]

Today, .



Oops, did old trousers not have back pockets, or something? Mine do have back pockets. I rarely use them, though, so it shouldn't be a problem. (Oh, wait, I guess that means I can leave them out of my next suit.)



I most certainly will post more pictures. I'll try to take them after I unpack, jet lag permitting.

It depends where your trousers came from. American ones tended to have two but UK very frequently did not much of the time. After the war some had one but a gentlemen having them made would have none - still the case for some today. In the photgraphs the grey suit did not appear to have them.

There is an interesting debate as to what poockets you should have in an older styled suits - modern or as I prefer true to the genral time of the garment.


Look forward to seeing the finihsed suits when you get home - the more pictures of both suits the better.

 

[Oscar Tong]

Pics

I'm slightly jet-lagged, but with some work, I managed to take a few pictures of myself wearing the suits. Have a look.

(Click for high-res versions.)





The tailor says the suits should shrink after their first dry cleaning. If she's right, the jacket sleeves should recede a little and show more cuff. We'll see.

Well, I hope you've enjoyed the pictures. I'm afraid more shots will have to wait—I'm tired now. Good night.

P.S. I tied the bow tie myself! :-D My technique needs a lot of work, but it's getting there.

 

[GBR]

Oscar

looking good. When you have chance to put up some more pictures I'll gather my thoughts for what they are worth:

Can you do the

rear view of each without the coat,
a profile with and without coat
and the inside of each coat


please.

This is fantastic project so well reported.

D

 

[Oscar Tong]

Oscar

looking good. When you have chance to put up some more pictures I'll gather my thoughts for what they are worth:

Can you do the

rear view of each without the coat,
a profile with and without coat
and the inside of each coat


please.

This is fantastic project so well reported.

D

Aww, thanks! I'm just glad I can share my enthusiasm with like-minded types. Nobody in Vancouver or Hong Kong understands me. *sniff* XD I've been called everything from "clown" to "grandpa!" lol

I had to take the pictures without any help, ya know—I'd feel too embarrassed asking someone to help. *blush* Good thing I had a mini-tripod.

I'll be glad to take more pictures. I should have them ready within seven days. What, though, is a profile? [huh]

 

[GBR]

Aw I should have them ready within seven days. What, though, is a profile? [huh]

Oscar - profile, side view.

D

 

[Oscar Tong]

More Pics, Part 1: Profile (Side) and Back without Jacket

I wonder how I managed to coax my camera's dying batteries into working again and again. Anyway, I've snapped a few more pictures. Since there are more than ten, I'll post them over three posts.

(Click for full-size image.)

Profile (Side) without Jacket



Back without Jacket

 

[Oscar Tong]

More Pics, Part 2: Jacket Inside

Jacket Inside

(Click for full-size image.)

Grey Jacket







Black Jacket

 

[Oscar Tong]

More Pics, Part 3: Trouser Details

Trouser Details

Both trousers were identical, so I only photographed one.

(Click for full-size image.)













Well, that's it, then. If there's gonna be a next time, I think I'll go for a brown suit, maybe a three-piece. Ta-ta!

 

[cookie]

Your suits

Both of the suit materials are fab. The interiors are finished in the traditional Asian way with the underarm sweat pads for instance. I like the summer gray suit but eventhough they think it will shrink somewhat It mabe should be altered a little in the back to make it a bit narrower and more "supressed" ie figure hugging

 

[BellyTank]

http://www.threadneedlemantailors.co.uk/

cannot plug this guy enough, specialised in mod but can do ANYTHING

Smuterella, you probably won't see this...

Small World, indeed.
When I was living in London, I was one of George's clients-(innit) I used to work two doors down, no, three to the left. Maybe four.
...George, corner shop, Florist, ...

Anyway, he's still on the Walworth Rd., I presume.(?)
And to the right(extreme right actually) was the mad Army Surplus guy.
Totally mad.

Ahhh... Walworth Rd.,... The Elephant...
Thank God I now live in Stockholm.

B
T

 

[Creeping Past]

When I was living in London, I was one of George's clients-(innit) I used to work two doors down, no, three to the left. Maybe four.
...George, corner shop, Florist, ...

Anyway, he's still on the Walworth Rd., I presume.(?)

The website says George is still there. Is he very expensive? His work looks solid.

From where I work it's a long lunch hour's walk.

 

[BellyTank]

He was more expensive than I was expecting, in 1997-2000 but I'm sure he's way cheaper than a tailor in the City, or the West End.

Do you work south of the river..?


B
T

 

[Creeping Past]

He was more expensive than I was expecting, in 1997-2000 but I'm sure he's way cheaper than a tailor in the City, or the West End.

Do you work south of the river..?


B
T

Just north. Near Victoria.

I'm also considering looking into more local options, including Apsley's, Pall Mall, which does bespoke, or so they say, for about £1,000.

I'm visiting Leeds at the weekend and will drop in to Keith Wilson's on Briggate. I noticed his shop last time I was up there but didn't have time to look in. He had some heavy looking fabric displayed in the window that interested me. He says he'll do bespoke for under £400, which would be great if he has some good quality fabric to hand.

 

[Creeping Past]

I'm slightly jet-lagged, but with some work, I managed to take a few pictures of myself wearing the suits. Have a look.

Looking very good. Great fit on jacket and trousers.

EDIT: And we're glad you survived and came through in one piece! Or should that be 2-piece? Okay, not a great pun...

 

[BellyTank]

Sorry to hijack your thread, Oscar.

Looking good.

B
T

 

[Oscar Tong]

Sorry to hijack your thread, Oscar.

Looking good.

B
T

It's okay, BellyTank. I was wondering how we got from suits to that George guy. The nature of conversations is funny, isn't it?

Both of the suit materials are fab. The interiors are finished in the traditional Asian way with the underarm sweat pads for instance.

I picked the materials myself! Can you tell me more about this traditional Asian finish? It sounds intriguing.

I like the summer gray suit but eventhough they think it will shrink somewhat It mabe should be altered a little in the back to make it a bit narrower and more "supressed" ie figure hugging

I asked for a more visible waist twice, but the tailor said any more, and the jackets would become too tight. [huh]